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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know if there is a way to change the friction point (the place where the clutch engages) on the 1098?

I had an MPL clutch slave installed at the 600 mile service and now the clutch lever hits my fourth knuckle when I pull the lever (two fingers on the lever, two on the grip) to change gears. It’s not too bad on upshifts but it really clunks into gear when I downshift. I also have to kind of “stomp" the pedal to downshift. Also, to get neutral, I have to roll all four fingers onto the lever and pull it all the way to the grip. The service guy (Spectrum) said he didn’t think there is a way to change the friction point but to bring it in and they’ll try to bleed it again—which is on my agenda for Saturday. I tried clicking the lever further out but that doesn’t seem to have remedied the situation.

Sorry for rambling. Any suggestions?

Cheers,

Lenny
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've let it out one click already, with no noticeable effect. I guess I'll try a few more clicks?
 

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Yes, that should do it. If not enough you can always adjust the push rod inside the lever itself...not sure if I can explain this correctly. There is like a push rod thing in there and a locking nut. You need to loosen the nut and unscrew the push rod and retighten the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
boduc said:
Yes, that should do it. If not enough you can always adjust the push rod inside the lever itself...not sure if I can explain this correctly. There is like a push rod thing in there and a locking nut. You need to loosen the nut and unscrew the push rod and retighten the nut.
Dude, maybe I'll ride by and you can help me! Or I'll have Adrian at Spectrum do it while they are sorting out my stalling issues...
 

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After installing my new clutch slave I had the same issues.
First make sure you have the line bled, then you will probably need to adjust the lever rod/linkage(between the lever and the master cylinder).
After doing this mine felt better, not like stock, but good enough. I still find myself chasing neutral and have found that It's easier If I shift to
neutral just before I come to a stop while I'm still moving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ten-6 said:
After installing my new clutch slave I had the same issues.
First make sure you have the line bled, then you will probably need to adjust the lever rod/linkage(between the lever and the master cylinder).
After doing this mine felt better, not like stock, but good enough. I still find myself chasing neutral and have found that It's easier If I shift to
neutral just before I come to a stop while I'm still moving.
Yeah, getting it re-bled is on my to-do list for this weekend. And I’ll have them adjust the lever rod/linkage while they’re at it, as well. Neutral has always been a bit recalcitrant but I found last night and this morning that I can grab it OK if I’m still rolling.

As an aside, there is a thread about starting in false neutral with disastrous results. I found (and everyone may already know this) that if you have an open clutch cover, you can take a peek at the pressure plate to verify N. If it’s spinning while standing still, it’s in neutral. If it’s not spinning, it’s still in gear… Now I always take a look down before I let go of the clutch lever after I start it or while sitting at a light.
 
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