Clutch Question
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Usually you have to purchase those seperate. Their usually around $40 bucks o so for the set.
I have the STM push plate on my 1098.
First, you can use the 6 M5x20 bolts from the stock clutch.
Second, the stainless steel springs are just for cosmetic purposes but, since the spring retainers supplied with the STM plate are completely covering the springs (shaped like a cup) you wont have any problem with rust.
Third, stainless steel for springs is not a first choice material due to the lower elastic module compared to the carbon silicon steel alloys. (SS springs will lose resistance sooner than the stock ones).
Verner
First, you can use the 6 M5x20 bolts from the stock clutch.
Second, the stainless steel springs are just for cosmetic purposes but, since the spring retainers supplied with the STM plate are completely covering the springs (shaped like a cup) you wont have any problem with rust.
Third, stainless steel for springs is not a first choice material due to the lower elastic module compared to the carbon silicon steel alloys. (SS springs will lose resistance sooner than the stock ones).
Verner
Yes,
I do have a brand new set of ss springs which I could have tried to sell you but honestly what I said is not bs and the springs are in a drawer.
The minor rust (not visible with the STM cups) is not detrimental to the springs and if you are really picky just lightly grease them before you put them back.
I have three ducs 1997 - 221 - 2007.
Use the 40 $ for gas and enjoy.
I do have a brand new set of ss springs which I could have tried to sell you but honestly what I said is not bs and the springs are in a drawer.
The minor rust (not visible with the STM cups) is not detrimental to the springs and if you are really picky just lightly grease them before you put them back.
I have three ducs 1997 - 221 - 2007.
Use the 40 $ for gas and enjoy.
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1,111 Posts
Most SS springs also increase clutch resistance (require more effort to compress). As a direct result, the effort it takes to pull in your clutch increases. For track use, this may be looked at as a plus, but for everyday street, it'll only add to the already strenuous Ducati clutch.
Last but not least, the rust issue... As long as you don't hose your bike or let it sit in the rain for days on end (without use), you really shouldn't have a rust issue with OEM hardware. It's all about common sense. If the clutch pack gets wet, after you're done washing it down, start the bike up and let it idle for just a few minutes. You can also gently cycle her through a few small revs to speed the process up. Between the heat and the spinning action of the clutch itself, all the water (the little amount that's trapped in there) will ultimately disappear.
That's what I have been doing to all my Duc's since 1999 and I have never had any rust issues...
Last but not least, the rust issue... As long as you don't hose your bike or let it sit in the rain for days on end (without use), you really shouldn't have a rust issue with OEM hardware. It's all about common sense. If the clutch pack gets wet, after you're done washing it down, start the bike up and let it idle for just a few minutes. You can also gently cycle her through a few small revs to speed the process up. Between the heat and the spinning action of the clutch itself, all the water (the little amount that's trapped in there) will ultimately disappear.
That's what I have been doing to all my Duc's since 1999 and I have never had any rust issues...
Remember to order a new throw-out bearing, STM PP does not come with it (abt. $ 9) and using the one on the stock is not a good idea. (Hammering on ball bearings is not a reccomended practice)
To have it pressed in go to any shop hand have them do it.
Without a press you may try to tap it in (always on the outer race) after you bring the PP to no more than 200 F in the kitchen oven.
Any higher temp. can cause discoloration.
Alignment of the bearing is important and make sure it seats evenly on the bottom.
To have it pressed in go to any shop hand have them do it.
Without a press you may try to tap it in (always on the outer race) after you bring the PP to no more than 200 F in the kitchen oven.
Any higher temp. can cause discoloration.
Alignment of the bearing is important and make sure it seats evenly on the bottom.
3500 miles on SS springs with none of the above probs. No spring tension or memory problems and the clutch pull was'nt a problem even with the stock slave. Went with the MPL slave for the look. I have the red Paulimoto pressure plate with the Black Spider retainer with SS springs from speedymoto. Looks great w/out rust and have had 0 issues. I've had many tell me about the "tention memory" issue, But they so far have No personal experience with the springs.
3500 miles is definitely way too low to experience loss of "tention memory" anyhow all the guys who told you about this issue knows what I was saying.
I've been designing machine tools for the automotive industry for 22 years and all the certified springs are never made of SS.
Have an opinion from Ohlins, Eibach or others if you dont trust me.
Ducatiguy mentioned that most ss springs have a higher resistance and he is right (they do that to overcame the quicker weaking of ss)
I've been designing machine tools for the automotive industry for 22 years and all the certified springs are never made of SS.
Have an opinion from Ohlins, Eibach or others if you dont trust me.
Ducatiguy mentioned that most ss springs have a higher resistance and he is right (they do that to overcame the quicker weaking of ss)
Still...........haven't had a problem!! will post if or when I do!! Also, on a side note, with stock springs and slave never experienced the "Ducati clutch pull" wrenched for over thirty years. No limp wrist here! Ohlins the Suspension people?? sounds like a good clutch authority. Just posting my experience, $40 will not break me at this point. Look Good!! Work good!! Maybe by the time I have to replace the clutch pack these babies will have lost SOME tension. By the way, why would you tell someone with obviously limited experience to put aluminum in an oven? Most aluminum billet is of aircraft standards of witch I'm sure you're familiar, and if overheated will warp and/or break down the anealing process. Just my opinion..
Hey take it easy!!!
The whole point is that if somebody is asking for advise I thought was appropriate to let him know that other than appearance there would be no gain in using the ss springs.
I considered shock manufacturers because THEY do make springs, the clutch manufacturers are only using off the shelf springs.
The reason to heat the push plate at 200 F max is to expand the bearing seat to aid the bearing insertion if done on the bench (as I said with a press alignements problems are less and the heating can be avoided)
I think is much easier to set the oven at 200 F than dealing with a misaligned bearing and a damaged seat.
STM PP are made of 7075 T6 (T6 indicates that the alloy has been heat treated) and at 200 F you are quite below the temperature at which you modify the material structure.
I appreciate the exchange of opinions as is always nice to learn something.
The whole point is that if somebody is asking for advise I thought was appropriate to let him know that other than appearance there would be no gain in using the ss springs.
I considered shock manufacturers because THEY do make springs, the clutch manufacturers are only using off the shelf springs.
The reason to heat the push plate at 200 F max is to expand the bearing seat to aid the bearing insertion if done on the bench (as I said with a press alignements problems are less and the heating can be avoided)
I think is much easier to set the oven at 200 F than dealing with a misaligned bearing and a damaged seat.
STM PP are made of 7075 T6 (T6 indicates that the alloy has been heat treated) and at 200 F you are quite below the temperature at which you modify the material structure.
I appreciate the exchange of opinions as is always nice to learn something.
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