[rubbish]

I'm sure this has been asked before but I'm in a bit of a hurry, so I don't feel like searching now....how do I take the clutch hub off?? I took the hub nut off, bushing, washer, all the plates, and nothing. Can't pull the damn thing off. Is there something else holding it that I'm missing, or is there a trick to get it off?

The other question is what's the minimum thickness of the OEM plates (both steel and friction) supposed to be before you need to change them? I'm changing to a slipper clutch, and was planning on using the stock plates, but now that I took them off I just want to make sure that they're still within spec.

 

[tye1138]

Once the plates are out and the nut is undone, the hub should fall out onto the floor. Hit it with a rubber mallet off-center, that should get it to come out. Some people cake the living crap out of it with locktite and causes it to get sticky.

If you can feel the pad protruding from the metal backing at all, then its probably OK. I would NOT use the OEM plates for a slipper however. They can't deal with shedding the heat and henceforth overheat very quickly as a result. I blew up my OEM clutch stack in days first time around with a slipper. This is why I warn people to buy special friction disks designed for slipper clutches. Motowheels sells the ones I like from Surflex.

 

[rubbish]

Once the plates are out and the nut is undone, the hub should fall out onto the floor. Hit it with a rubber mallet off-center, that should get it to come out. Some people cake the living crap out of it with locktite and causes it to get sticky.

If you can feel the pad protruding from the metal backing at all, then its probably OK. I would NOT use the OEM plates for a slipper however. They can't deal with shedding the heat and henceforth overheat very quickly as a result. I blew up my OEM clutch stack in days first time around with a slipper. This is why I warn people to buy special friction disks designed for slipper clutches. Motowheels sells the ones I like from Surflex.

What if you only have to downshift 3 times and upshift 3 times during the course of 1 lap?

 

[1fast750ss]

It just depends on how hard you are on the clutch Rub. Many people use the OEM plates in slippers, but Tye is correct in saying they will not last as long as the Kevlar plates for the slippers.

Get your money's worth form the plates you have now, then pick up a set of the Kevlar plate kit later.

Remember, the stack height for the slipper clutch will be about 36.5mm, and always start with a friction plate.

 

[rubbish]

It just depends on how hard you are on the clutch Rub. Many people use the OEM plates in slippers, but Tye is correct in saying they will not last as long as the Kevlar plates for the slippers.

Get your money's worth form the plates you have now, then pick up a set of the Kevlar plate kit later.

Remember, the stack height for the slipper clutch will be about 36.5mm, and always start with a friction plate.

Ah...so it's different than the OEM? The OEM starts with 2 steel plates, after which they alternate.

It appears the first 2 steel plates (and by 1st I mean, deeper) are about 2.05 mm, whereas the others are about 1.5-1.55 mm. The friction plates are around 3 to 3.05 mm. Does this sound OK, or are they too worn out?

 

[tye1138]

Yep, the ball-bearing style slippers already have a metal disk in the back of the hub.

Measure the entire stack together, that will tell you how worn they are.

 

[tye1138]

What if you only have to downshift 3 times and upshift 3 times during the course of 1 lap?

If the slipper is setup right and the drag reduction is at its max, yea it will burn out very quickly. Its all about how much speed you've gotta remove before entering the corner, not so much how many times you shift per lap. If its a lot of speed and your breaking for a while, thats when the wear happens.

I got one season out of a kevlar slipper clutch pack, but I also rode about 6000 track miles.
In contrast, I got about 2 track events out of my OEM clutch. It was literally smoking when it failed on me.

 

[rubbish]

Well not counting the first 2 steel plates, it's at around 36.5-37 mm. If I count those 2 steel plates as well, it'd be 40.5-41 mm.

 

[rubbish]

So then for the slipper, I just start off with a friction plate and put 8 friction and 8 steel plates, and I'm good to go?

I'm probably getting ahead of myself here and all of this is probably in the instructions lol....but I haven't got that far yet, since it got late and I got stuck on removing the hub. Figured I'll do the rest tomorrow.

If those numbers look good, then I'd rather do that, since I only have 3 track days left this year...I'm sure they won't burn off that quick, and if I have to get new plates I can do it in the off-season along with other stuff.

 

[tye1138]

Yea, numbers look good. 36.5mm is about right without the backing plates.

Yea, you'll be fine for 3 more track events and some street riding.

It goes friction > Metal > Friction > Metal all the way to the end where the final most outside plate is a METAL one. You can't put a friction against the pressure plate.

 

[rubbish]

Still can't get the drum out. I moved it...a bit...like a few mm, but now it won't come out any farther. I tried the rubber mallet...doesn't seem to help . Any help will be appreciated.

 

[rubbish]

Never mind...got it!

 

[tye1138]

Good! Yea its probably all white on the inside from the locktite they put on, yuck!

 

[rubbish]

Nope, everything looked clean....I really don't know why it was so hard to remove. My guess is very tight tolerances between the splines on the shaft and the splines on the drum. Oh well...on to a more serious issue.

How the hell do I remove that spacer from the splined shaft?? They call it a spacer, but it looks to be like a bearing. Seems pretty damn impossible to take out. In the Belissimoto instructions I found online (because the Ducabike ones are garbage) it says to put the original nut back on the shaft, put the 32mm socket on it, then grab onto the "spacer" with pliers and keep rotating the nut and the spacer breaks loose and you can pull it out. Problem is it's somewhat of a tight space in there and that bearing is made out of typical bearing steel which is very hard and has a smooth surface finish...which means slippery as shit!

What's the trick to taking that off? Or can I get away with not taking it off and using it instead of the Ducabike one? The Ducabike spacer has a larger outer diameter which matches the Belville washer provided.

 

[rubbish]

Forgot about the picture

 

[tye1138]

The spacer should need to be removed. I have a special tool for it called Nipex from Bluepoint. Its a flat edged adjustable wrench. It works great for these applications. Shove it in the hole, squeeze it and pull, should pop right out. The new clutch should come with a replacement, as the spacing on the hub is different between a slipper and a standard hub.

 

[rubbish]

You mean this:
New 12? Knipex Pliers Wrench ? Hand Tool Tools Adjustable Plier Made in Germany | eBay

I don't see how this would be any better than regular ones. This has flats instead of serrated grips so it would slip even more...

 

[tye1138]

Yep! Thats them! It has flat ends, but when you grip the handle, it puts WAY more clamping force on the item your gripping. I've never had an issue getting those spacers out using that tool and its the only tool I could fit in there because there isn't much meat to grab onto and none of my other tools have a wide enough mouth. I have the full kit of Nipex, small, medium, large, you should be able to buy them as a whole kit and trust me, those tools are going to be your new best friend!

 

[rubbish]

Over $50 for just one, not the set, at Sears! Fuck that! Cheaper on Amazon, Ebay, etc, but I was hoping to figure out a way to do this now and not have to wait longer.

 

[tye1138]

Over $50 for just one, not the set, at Sears! Fuck that! Cheaper on Amazon, Ebay, etc, but I was hoping to figure out a way to do this now and not have to wait longer.

Yea they're expensive, but unfortunately its the only way I know how to get it out WITHOUT damaging something. Ducati must have a special tool for it, thats all I can think of.