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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for some help with a new fault guys.
I've not experienced this fault before today.
Let me set the scene to possibly debunk some possibilities:
- went for a 'brisk' run this morning.
- fuelled at usual station within 5km of home.
- no tanker on forecourt (so no reason to believe a fresh batch of fuel delivered).
- all good for about the first 100km.
- weather is dry and sunny 26-28C (I live in a dessert, so bike has barely, if ever, seen rain).
- I washed the bike about ten days back (not been out since then - work sucks!), so no damp connections etc.
- I've been washing the bike pretty much every week for three years since new...no problems encountered to date.
- new battery about three months ago, topped up with trickle charger for a few hours during the week.
- bike mostly used one day on weekend, for a 400-500km round trip.
- 'BATT' reading 12.4-12.6 (once headlight goes out) , no trouble starting.
- engine cut on me at speed this morning, (160-200kph)...just for a second, then kicked back in.
- thought I'd imagined it at first but then became more prevalent - it's never done that before!
- once the farmyard smell for my leathers dissipated I studied fauly a bit more.
- I can't see a 'trigger', i.e. no particular gear, revs, speed, upright or cranked over, hard on gas or neutral throttle.
- noticed when it cuts the rev counter 'disappears' (i.e.clears to zero), other dash info seems to be there: coolent temp etc (all normal by the way). I think I saw the blue 'full beam' light go out with the rev counter...but can't be 100% (they drive like total dickheads here, so full beam when I'm not in a group).
- no codes thrown, no check engine light.
- bike is 2012, 30,000km, full dealer service history owned by me from new, Termi slip ons and DP ECU are the only 'performance upgrades'.
- have had some 'history' (several months back) with mild misfires which seem to have been resolved by new air filters (I'm in a dusty dessert remember), now running MWR 'road' two piece, for over two months, no issues.
- fault seemed to calm down when I did, but it didn't disappear.
- came home 'steady', but still getting intermittent repeat of fault.
- let bike sit/cool for couple of hours before nipping up Ducati Dealer to get appointment (no slot till March ffs!), same problem on way back, but this time from traffic lights
- it's always 'caught' again when it cuts out, and it only cuts out for literally a seconds if that, but it can't trust barrelling into corners north of 200 if it's going to do this mid bend...it's effectively engine braking at speed!

I saw one guy in here had a similar fault last year, but no resolution posted.

Any ideas? I've got three weeks to kill before the dealer can look at it. I'm an average mechanic...but electrics are a bit out of my depth once you get past wiring in LED indicators!

Look forward to your advice...
 

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Sounds like a bad voltage regulator to me. When they start to go bad, they can spike the system and cause the ECU to reset. The clue here was the RPM gauge going to zero, that's because the ECU supplies that data directly and when it cuts out, that will go to zero every time. The 848/1098/1198 are notorious for these issues and since you live in a warm climate, it would be the first thing on my list to look at. Ducati was suppose to fix the issues with the "EVO" models, but their fix isn't very good…. it's just a heat shied.

You can remove the voltage regulator from the bike entirely (unplug it) and ride it as a full-loss system. You will need to disconnect the fuse for the lights however as they will drain the battery quickly. Maybe do a quick ride around your neighborhood after getting the bike hot and see if the problem goes away. Don't go to far without a follow truck to bring you back when the battery gets below 10v… but it should run for at least 5 - 10 miles no problem and give you a good clue at whether or not that's the issue.
 

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I had the same issue the other day. I was entering the free way here in Cali I say the temp of day was about 83 degree f, and my bike was prob at temp of 190ish, so as I enter the freeway I give it full throttle everything goes good untill my engine just loses all it's power and bike rpm just goes down within second of me doing this so I shut my bike down start it and I start to go again rpm kicking back up like normal but then it starts to surge rpm goes down but then up down but then up so I pull over again and just let my bike rest and get cold for a minute, after min I start again and problem didn't happen no more. I just recently changed the voltage reg so it's new idk what this could be but kinda scary maybe u guys have some idea thanks !
 

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^^^^ Your issue could be fueling. Turning the bike on and off, allows the fuel pump to stop running for a brief second and when it cycles back on again, it clears whatever problem there is.

The OP's issue is slightly different in that his dash shuts off and resets, clearly indicating an electrical issue.
 

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Hmmm so you think my pump might be bad ? Just odd and kinda scary because cutting rpm like that when I might need it might cause something to go wrong accident wise
Yea, it could be a pump OR just the fuel filter. I'd start by replacing the filter and checking the lines/fittings for cracks.
 

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I have a very similar issue with my ST3 right now. I have already replaced the fuel pump (and wiring to it) and it is still exhibiting the same issue. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay and the temperature sensor. The shop is replacing the timing sensor this week. I will let all know what they find. I have seen other people who have also replaced the ecu along with the rest of the stuff I replaced without success.
 

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It is looking like it is my side stand switch that was causing my issue. The switch finally failed to the point where it dies as soon as it is popped into gear. My symptom sounds very similar to yours because I was always able to pull over and rev the motor with it in gear on the side of the road but it would not exhibit the problem until I was riding and giving it some throttle. I suspect the connection was just chattering with the vibration of it being ridden.
 

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The OP's problem certainly sounds electrical, with the dash reset, and may indeed relate to a regulator problem.
I am concerned by the reference to such frequent washing. Weekly washing sounds excessive, although you clearly live in a dusty environment ( a desert perhaps, as opposed to a dessert..).
The important point around this is whether you always rode the bike a few miles immediately after washing. If you didn't (a very bad idea) there may well be corrosion/resistance in your wiring loom.
A common place for this to occur, and can lead to these sorts of problems, is the wiring from the alternator to the regulator.
This is a white block with three yellow wires just to the rear of the battery.
To check the alternator/regulator output simply connect a multimeter (set on 20V) to the battery terminals (red to positive!) and run the engine.
It should read over 12V at all times, and not exceed 14.6V at high revs. If you don't have a meter they are available from about $20. A worthwhile addition to your toolbox, and your understanding of how your bike functions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just thought I'd close this out...
Eventually got bike to dealer who hooked up to the OBD, a fault with the vertical coil was identified. Once coil was removed it could be seen that the supply wire insulation had broken down, causing a short circuit, which must have addled the ECU! New coil fitted and seems to be running OK. Haven't taken it on a decent test run just, but Ducati has, and to be honest having seen the offending coil I am pretty confident that this was the problem!

It seems the cable had strayed into the path of the cooling fan, which had progressively nicked the insulation until the point of exposing the copper!

Unusual fault...but there you go...hopefully this might save someone else!
 
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