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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Today I got an error code (using OBE interface).
It said U1601- C-Can line error in the ducatidiag program. Does anybody know what that could be related to?

/BR
Patrik
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Update: Have changed all the fuses (except the 30amp to the voltageregulator) and all the relays. Still no luck =/

The dealer will take it by thursday, but it sucks that i cant find the problem my self.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Update: Just had it to the dealer running it thru the computer, it says "Can line error - short circuit" which could mean that the whole main loom needs replacing or that the dash needs replacement.

The main loom seems like hell to change and the dash costs alot and needs new keys etc.

But my thought is that if it would be a open circuit on the main loom it would show all the time right? but i can have the ignition on for 20min and nothing happends and then shut it off and on again just to see it happend then.
So maybe it is the dash?

//Patrik
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I was just enjoying the read and hoping to get an answer as my bike is loosing all lights though still running OK.

Have you checked the voltage when this happends? so it isnt the well known voltage regulator problem?

//BR
patrik
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Update: Will get my new dashboard tomorrow, will try if its that otherwise its going to be to change the whole wiring loom.
 

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Checking operation of the high beam lights relay
Disconnect the relay (1) from the electrical system and apply 12 V (battery voltage) between contacts (113) and (133) (small contacts): you should hear a click that confirms that the internal electromagnet has switched.
Connect a multimeter to contacts (121) and (122) (big contacts) to check for the full scale reading (analogue tester) or buzzer (digital tester). If this does not occur, the part must be renewed.
 

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Checking operation of the high beam lights relay
Disconnect the relay (1) from the electrical system and apply 12 V (battery voltage) between contacts (113) and (133) (small contacts): you should hear a click that confirms that the internal electromagnet has switched.
Connect a multimeter to contacts (121) and (122) (big contacts) to check for the full scale reading (analogue tester) or buzzer (digital tester). If this does not occur, the part must be renewed.
THANKS K1099s! Will try this at home!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Hi!
I'm so sorry for not letting you know earlier. The problem was.....*drums* the USB memory (DDA) when this is removed everything works great! Damn canbus system!

//BR
Patrik
 

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My bike is having the same problem, however I do not have anything plugged into the USB. Has anyone been able to narrow down other sources?
 

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Hello all!
I know this thread is super old but I'm having the same issue. However I do not have a dda connected to my 1098's USB/data link connector. I will try erasing it anyways but this is where I'm at. The previous owner did a bunch of funky stuff to the bike and I've been going through it fixing everything I find. Recently replaced the starter clutch and noticed the stator/voltage accumulator looked kinda toasty but didn't replace it yet. So the bike struggles to start on cold starts but usually after the third time she starts. After about 1.5-2 hours of riding the headlights, taillights, turn signals and dashboard back lighting will come on an off. During daylight it'll just shut off completely but when the RPMs drop to nearly idle level they will kick back on and the diag light will come on and flash a couple times but the lights will quickly go back off. I've ran it with the stator unplugged to see what that would do and everything stays the same, no change. I've ran the vin and all recalls have been done (supposedly). So will the USB erase be able to to do anything even if there is no dda hooked up? I can't see how the stator would create this issue without shutting literally everything down, not just the lighting system, VR might be worth replacing, I'm really hoping it's not the dash or the loom because that's just more work I don't wanna do. I purchased a 4 pin to OBD2 adapter so I can try and read the codes so hopefully that works in telling me what's going on. I only have 2 dealers in my area and both are very busy and can't see my bike for about a week and I know they both will rake me over the coals for just diagnosing my bike. Has anyone had any new developments or ideas since this discuss started?? Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Hello all!
I know this thread is super old but I'm having the same issue. However I do not have a dda connected to my 1098's USB/data link connector. I will try erasing it anyways but this is where I'm at. The previous owner did a bunch of funky stuff to the bike and I've been going through it fixing everything I find. Recently replaced the starter clutch and noticed the stator/voltage accumulator looked kinda toasty but didn't replace it yet. So the bike struggles to start on cold starts but usually after the third time she starts. After about 1.5-2 hours of riding the headlights, taillights, turn signals and dashboard back lighting will come on an off. During daylight it'll just shut off completely but when the RPMs drop to nearly idle level they will kick back on and the diag light will come on and flash a couple times but the lights will quickly go back off. I've ran it with the stator unplugged to see what that would do and everything stays the same, no change. I've ran the vin and all recalls have been done (supposedly). So will the USB erase be able to to do anything even if there is no dda hooked up? I can't see how the stator would create this issue without shutting literally everything down, not just the lighting system, VR might be worth replacing, I'm really hoping it's not the dash or the loom because that's just more work I don't wanna do. I purchased a 4 pin to OBD2 adapter so I can try and read the codes so hopefully that works in telling me what's going on. I only have 2 dealers in my area and both are very busy and can't see my bike for about a week and I know they both will rake me over the coals for just diagnosing my bike. Has anyone had any new developments or ideas since this discuss started?? Any help would be appreciated!
May be worth posting to a new thread....

However, I am having a similar issue, pretty sure its the voltage r/r as it seems to happen when I'm in stop and go traffic and the coolant temp gets up there, so thinking that the r/r gets overheated. Went to the dealer and talked to the parts girl and gave her the Triumph part number for the r/r upgrade and she did a lot of cross referencing and found a r/r from Ducati that is supposedly an updated version, I'm hoping that it will just bolt on instead of having to make an adapter plate/bracket. Waiting on the adapter harness to come in before I dig into it.
 
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