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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys!

Any comments appreciated..

Already had my 1199 taken in to address clutch not engaging until almost against handle..hard toe vengeance I neutral and gears..
I have read some comments on this being a continual thing where I will have to bleed the clutch etc regularly..
Is there any solutions advice?

Also, micro tool kit?..do you recommend getting one?..and, to bleed myself what mm do I need?..I've seen multiple answers on this..8, 11, etc.?

Thanks in advance y'all!

I love my Pani and just trying to get a grip on everything and learn as much about taking care of her as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sorry for auto correct..

It becomes difficult to engage neutral and gears during this time as well.

1st time I went in was about 1,200 miles..now, about 600 miles later and it's doing this again.

Would rather fix under warranty than just bleeding constantly if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nope..is farther away initially and after riding miles it gets closer and closer to grip bar..until I will need to take in again to dealer to bleed..
 

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Are you losing fluid anywhere? If not, it's may be a couple of factors but only one problem. Air is getting n the line. You just need to find the needle in the haystack.

Could be the master, line or the slave. Have them test everything to verify where the leak is.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Taking it in next week.
Still under warranty..but, over an hour one way.
Hopefully will be fixed and not having to bleed before each ride.

Thanks guys!
 

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De'duc'tive reasoning..Transparency...Impending recall?

Hey RunDuc1199,
Check this out and you should have a permanent solution. I don't believe that any service charge to you is justifiable!

Here's the two most insightful excerpts from researching results of:
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=ducati+1199+panigale+clutch+recalls

Eureka!!!
If you're unable to perform the steps in 'COMPLETE REMEDY' below, simply write them 'ALL' down for the service tech?


SYMPTOMS:
MichaelDorian wrote elsewhere: "I have that exact same problem. It's definitely heat related. It started to happen after I did my first track day of the season on this bike. It happened after a couple of sessions. The symptoms were as follows.

1. The clutch felt hard to pull and wasn't smooth. It's as if the bolts were rusty of something. I would describe the clutch as sounding crunchy.
2. There's a grinding / crunching sound coming from what appears to be inside the engine.
3. When the bikes been off, sometimes I can still get the crunch sound and clutch lever feel if I pump the lever. That was the only way I could prove it to the techs.
4. The clutch appeared to still work as I was able to finish the day. " Thanks Michael!

>>====> COMPLETE REMEDY:
Provided elsewhere by Mig1199 (& Thanks a ton Mig!):
"The greasing and cleaning has nothing to do with the tight manufacture tolerances. Tight tolerance is tight tolerance, no matter if you grease it or not. For 1199 Owners with tight tolerance issues - the clutch master gets stiff. Meaning the metal expands with the heat which greasing will not cure.

Only cure for tight tolerance problems or stiff clutch action is: Remove your piston slave, scotch brite it and apply a metal polish compound to polish the cylinder walls. Once Polished, apply heat resistant grease onto the cylinder slave, dab a bit on the rod end and add a thin fillm of [High Temp] grease on the long rod. Then, re install.

A must to replace stock original clutch fluid to Motul's DOT 5.1 RBF600 brake fluid which has a higher boiling point.

With that all done, problem will be solved 100%. Iv'e done these myself on my previous Ducati's in the past.

Had "similar" problem with my Panigale "S" when I first got it. It had a "Creaking" sound but never felt stiff. Creaking sound was dryness...and lots of dirt. Infact I showed my bike to Ducati Manila's CEO - Toti Alberto. He felt my clutch and heard the creaking sound...he said to bring it in.

I decided to work on it myself. So I simply removed my clutch slave and cleaned all the filth and grime coming from the front engine sprocket. Regreased all parts as mentioned above, replaced my clutch fluid, now have more than 9,000kms and never had the problem since. I do this every 4,000kms though due to the location of the slave which is in front of the sprocket..thus, Slave cylinder captures dirt so easily.

I just replace my clutch and Brake fluid from time to time as I do lots of tracktime. Frequent trackdays degrades your brake, clutch fluid and engine oil too. So I replace them often. Never had issues since...
Thanks "


Brand allegiance calls for more than lost saddletime, lacking transparency and ignorance of customer yo~yo cost and effect imho.

Best successes to you RunDuc et al!
 

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Really? Re-build your brand new bikes slave cylinder? Thats the solution?

Yea, I'd be throwing the salve in the trash and buying an aftermarket one if I had to scotchbrite the cylinder walls in order for the OEM one to work properly.
 

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Hah, hah.

Agreed Tye. Please excuse my ignorance? /^B
Simple as dough, re, mi..
Would an aftermarket clutch slave void the warranty?
Thanky!
PS: Don't forget to recycle!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys!
I actually suggested an aftermarket to replace stock one when I take it in..dealer service guy says he races and has 2 Pani's..and hasn't had this issue..but, this would definitely fix it by just replacing with another stock one.
I have a feeling I'll be going back soon after I pick it back up for the exact same problem.
He must be the luckiest guy I know compared to the rest of us if he's had no issues with having to drain the clutch, etc.
 

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Would an aftermarket clutch slave void the warranty?
Thanky!
If you live in the states they would have to prove the aftermarket caused said damage...
 
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@RunDuc1199: I'd definitely replace the fluid as well after pressurized leak test is completed!
"A must to replace stock original clutch fluid to Motul's DOT 5.1 RBF600 brake fluid which has a higher boiling point."
@Tchase: Thanks!
@tye1138:
1) "Umm maybe you've simply got the lever adjusted to closely to the bar when at rest?" 2) "Bad slave cylinder. Just have the dealer replace it." 3) "Yea, I'd be throwing the salve in the trash and buying an aftermarket one if I had to scotchbrite the cylinder walls in order for the OEM one to work properly."
All great recommendations!
Agreed Tye. Simple as more dough, re, mi.. on the new bike.
So use to buying used bikes, building and modifying for performance. Dealer service and/or repair is extremely foreign territory. Way too familiar with parts counters though. /^X{
When I consider having pulled a dohc cyl-head 5 times in 4 days to defeat oil seapage induced by 23 lbs of boost, 'briting, shining and greasing a slave cyl (+ rod lubing) with upgrade fluid transfusion seems tame. Some~1 tried to explain that 12 lbs boost translated to a 30:1 compression range. Really? Sounds impossible to contain. Ultimately, stepped 'O' ringing cyls and head availed a fully sealed & ongoing screamfest. For some, nothing delivers like wringing out a machine you've plunged yourself into headlong. Sh!ty thing though, broke a nail! LMAOx2!
I'll be lost with a 4 (2+2) year SL warranty. Perhaps I should rethink this bizarre commitment due to service turnaround and parts availability/wait re: voiced (brand) experiences, concerns & issues.
All potential suggestions for RunDuc1199 are quacker wrench derived (not from my experience) and obviously 'take 'em or leave 'em' &/or basic options for his dealer service department. I did mention "If you cannot complete the steps" as they had failed to correct and suggesting 'non-routine maintenance' 'owner bleeding'. WTF kind of service is that for a $20k+/- live warranty 'exotic bike? Experienced owners' (cut and pasted) solution(s) would be 'problem solved' in an hour spinning my wrenches were it me. Just into limiting how much money & wrist~time some inadequate service vampires suck from us. Life is too fargin' short for $ome to repeatedly arrange drop-off, pick-up devoid of correction.
T'was keyed that OEM replacement slaves yielded identicle circumstances as would be expected when I followed the first thread in linked search. The rod is a potential issue as well, and the HT fluid upgrade should resolve hydrolic symptoms if potential leaks are detected and corrected during the second 2 hour round-trip to transylvania. Worth noting: Ducati factory brake fluid is siad to be inadequate. All IMHO BTW. Sorry if I came off authoritatively.
Always my best intentions in our dwindling free world to promote squeezing out every ounce of this fantastic journey. Best regards to all! TY. (^B
 

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Success?

Thanks guys!
I actually suggested an aftermarket to replace stock one when I take it in..dealer service guy says he races and has 2 Pani's..and hasn't had this issue..but, this would definitely fix it by just replacing with another stock one.
I have a feeling I'll be going back soon after I pick it back up for the exact same problem.
He must be the luckiest guy I know compared to the rest of us if he's had no issues with having to drain the clutch, etc.
How'd you make out?
 

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I was on a road trip through September, picking my 1199 up directly from the dealership. Somewhere in Colorado (at around 1000 miles) my clutch had the same issue. Unfortunately it was Sunday so I had no dealership to visit in order to resolve the issue until Tuesday. Being pressed for time I decided to roll into a standard quick oil change shop for cars and with a couple of tools we managed to bleed the line. No fluid was lost and about 1600 miles later I've got no issues. This is after many heat cycles, 8+ hour days riding, and being stuck in LA traffic nearly overheating.

Yours may require more than just bleeding, but thus far mine has held out fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Took it into the dealer this last Saturday..Nashville is an hour away..so, rode it there, left it..picking it up Saturday coming up.
Discussed with the dealership again about possibly needing to upgrade the master slave and fluid..they said no..that replacing the current one with another will solve.
But, with all the issues I've read on here about everyone practically needing to bleed on a somewhat regular basis..
Will just have to see I guess.
 

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But, with all the issues I've read on here about everyone practically needing to bleed on a somewhat regular basis..
I agree, it seems to be an ongoing trend which started years ago and hasn't quite stopped. I'm not sure where it comes from because I never had a problem with my own bikes and even customers bikes which have had clutch issues, its generally been bad fluid due to lack of maintenance. So these issues of NEW bikes with hydraulic issues, is quite interesting for sure.
 

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I agree, it seems to be an ongoing trend which started years ago and hasn't quite stopped. I'm not sure where it comes from because I never had a problem with my own bikes and even customers bikes which have had clutch issues, its generally been bad fluid due to lack of maintenance. So these issues of NEW bikes with hydraulic issues, is quite interesting for sure.
There hasn't been a "need" for me to bleed my clutch or brakes. I like to change the fluid when it starts getting dirty it's easy and cheap.

I don't think there is a trend, in order for it to be a trend we would need actual data and I'm sorry the small sample from this forum a few bikes we've worked on, isn't enough to say there is a trend.

IMHO
 
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