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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I've got a 2013 848 Evo that's done 12k. Before the service, I noticed that if I really pulled, I could pull the front brake lever to the throttle, and that the brakes felt soft in general. I couldn't do that before and remember the brakes being like hitting a wall when I put them on hard.

They redid the brake fluids and new pads during the service and it felt good when I got it back. 3 weeks later and I feel like the problems back.

Is this typical of the age of the bike or milage or something, or is there something wrong that I need to fix over the winter. Once the snow arrives I'll have a few months with it in the garage.

Cheers,

David
 

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Sounds like you're getting a bit of air in the master some how. I worked for a Brembo distributor and we used to get calls from guys with OEM masters both clutch and brake who would bleed, have firm pressure for a couple of weeks then have to re-bleed again.

Try bleeding them at the master first then calipers and see if it firms up. If it does, you'll know it's the master and either bleed them when they get soft or replace the master with a nice RCS.

Can't really say if it's an age thing or not as we had them call in with 5000miles and 25,000miles. I still run my OEM masters on my 848 and they've been solid for almost 90,000K now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers for the feedback.

When you say to bleed the master first, would this be by using the elastic band method, or something else? All the links I've read talk about the bleed nipple at the calipers, so I assume to bleed from the cylinder would be to tie back the lever overnight.

If so, I'll give it a go tonight and see if that gets the problem sorted.
 

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Use the ol' tried and true three pump method.

So basically, you'll have a wrench and a fluid line on the fitting ready to go. I generally get the fitting loose first, then put a bit of pressure on it to keep it closed.

The technique is to pump the lever three times, relatively quickly. On the forth pump, hold the lever hard, then open the fitting so oil squirts out, then immediately close it.

Pump, Pump, Pump, hold, open-close, rinse and repeat.

That will help the air bubbles rise to the top and come out the fitting.
 

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Tye has it down. I use a vacuum bleeder when I'm at my shop but if I'm at home I use the pump the lever method. There is a nipple at the master.
 

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Just use the bleed nipple at the master cylinder. Slowly.

And avoid advice that could cause you to aerate the whole system.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the excellent descriptions above.

I had implemented the tied lever method before I saw the response, so I left that overnight with the cylinder cap still on to prevent air/moisture in the system. I can confirm that it made a difference that has not dissipated over the last few days. I used cooking string to tie down the lever as it kept braking the thin wire ties I had at home.

If I get the reduced brake pressure again, I'll try the above methods and confirm back on this thread so others can see what works with the added advantage of a time line of effectiveness for the lever tie method.

Regards,

David
 

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It is good to occasionally replace the fluid by adding to the reservoir as you bleed the system, including the calipers. It is an easy job, as Pat mentioned above. Many threads on here describing proper methods and replacement fluid. I personally attach a plastic hose to the nipple a and to a small container, pump the lever a few times, hold it, crack the nipple, let the held lever come to the throttle, tighten the nipple, let the lever return to normal, repeat until new fluid is installed. Pressure should return to a firm condition.....
 

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It is good to occasionally replace the fluid by adding to the reservoir as you bleed the system, including the calipers. It is an easy job, as Pat mentioned above. Many threads on here describing proper methods and replacement fluid. I personally attach a plastic hose to the nipple a and to a small container, pump the lever a few times, hold it, crack the nipple, let the held lever come to the throttle, tighten the nipple, let the lever return to normal, repeat until new fluid is installed. Pressure should return to a firm condition.....
I start bleed at the slave first using 2 fill ups at the res, then move to the handle and do another 2 fill ups while bleeding.

If you have a compressor invest 30 bucks in this I use it all the time and not just for bleeding the clutch and brakes

Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, the pressure has dropped again after a week. :(

I'm getting ready to move house in a few weeks so too much packing to look at it now, but the new place has a garage, which will become my workshop :) And as the winter hits soon in Switzerland and the snow arrives it'll be parked up for some serious maintenance for a few months. Looking forward to having a place to get my hands dirty again :)

Thanks for all the tips above.
 
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