That's not the right footwear. It should be red.
Going in to N on red lights trouble
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http://www.ducati.org/forums/ducati-monster-821/64735-new-821-hard-gears-shift.html
Read that, but I will answer here. Mine was hard / stiff as a brick. After the first oil change it got better. Still was very hard though, the trick to getting neutral is clicking up before the clutch goes in. Works like butter every time.
Jeff M
Read that, but I will answer here. Mine was hard / stiff as a brick. After the first oil change it got better. Still was very hard though, the trick to getting neutral is clicking up before the clutch goes in. Works like butter every time.
Jeff M
Joined
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85 Posts
Yeah I read all about the finding neutral struggle after I demo rode a monster 1200, 1200s, 821 and the diavel and they all had it. They were all new bikes except the 1200s which had 1400 miles on it. It still had the neutral issue but not as bad. Hearing it gets better is good. I pulled the trigger anyhow and bought an 821. The lazy part of me thought this would really bother me but I figured I'd learn the traits of the bike and find the neutral tricks. Already have. As mentioned here the roll forward release the clutch a bit and click up from first. From 2nd I'm finding if I lift my foot and tap down in a quicker lighter way I find neutral approaching a stop. And with parking if I don't find it from first right away I just turn the engine off, clutch still pulled in, it taps in right away to neutral. So if you are parking sometimes just turning off the bike might be your quickest way to find neutral. But I don't do that at stop lights.
Joined
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6,790 Posts
Yes - it will go into neutral easier if the wheels are still turning, as it gives the gear dogs the opportunity to line up.
Of course much of this initial difficulty relates to full clutch separation, and the clutch plates needing to 'bed in'.
Perhaps get your dealer to do a quick bleed of your clutch hydraulics, as this may help, rather than waiting for the first service. (And bleed it at the master cylinder if your model has a bleed nipple there).
Sometimes if you lean your bike as far over to the right as you can without dropping it, and SLOWLY work the clutch lever, it can bleed any air in the system up to the reservoir.
Hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic (ie. it draws moisture from the air). So if your bike sat for a period between being manufactured, and you buying it, the fluids probably could benefit from a flush/bleed. And of course this issue is more critical in a humid atmosphere like yours.
But an issue like this shouldn't be affecting your experience of a new bike. Mine was fine pretty well straight off, but I've been a bit of a clutch-bleeding fanatic for years..
Hence the expression 'a little Aussie bleeder'..
Of course much of this initial difficulty relates to full clutch separation, and the clutch plates needing to 'bed in'.
Perhaps get your dealer to do a quick bleed of your clutch hydraulics, as this may help, rather than waiting for the first service. (And bleed it at the master cylinder if your model has a bleed nipple there).
Sometimes if you lean your bike as far over to the right as you can without dropping it, and SLOWLY work the clutch lever, it can bleed any air in the system up to the reservoir.
Hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic (ie. it draws moisture from the air). So if your bike sat for a period between being manufactured, and you buying it, the fluids probably could benefit from a flush/bleed. And of course this issue is more critical in a humid atmosphere like yours.
But an issue like this shouldn't be affecting your experience of a new bike. Mine was fine pretty well straight off, but I've been a bit of a clutch-bleeding fanatic for years..
Hence the expression 'a little Aussie bleeder'..
21 - 26 of 26 Posts
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