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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there is supposed to be a mark or something to line up with the slotted stud but I don't see anything .
Is there one?
 

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Look on the front side some distinguishing mark, usually a arrowhead or vee . Or just try fitting it in one of the six positions. You'll feel when its keyed in place, plus it will lock into the rotor hub with the studs centered in the spring pockets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks, I will look harder. Did not see anything, but now understand why it has to be lined up a certain way. Hope this bearing is the right size. Done want to have to drift the old one out etc etc.Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is there any reason to reuse the rubber gasket on the cover? Or is that only needed for the closed clutch? Thanks Hope the install goes smooth
 

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Just make sure the the spring caps don't drag on the inside of the cover. I had a woodcraft cover with the replaceable puck. After removing the gasket I had to use shorter screws that held the puck. But only after I had ground the tops off my pretty red caps :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The taps on my new clutch cover were too thick anyway, so did not use the old gasket. Install went off without a hitch. Only issue was I had to loosen the clutch slave cylinder to give me a little slack on the pressure plate side to line it up with the studs. Then as last step tightened it up. Got that little pop when using the clutch the first time but all is well and just got to find the time to road test
 

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What's wrong with reusing the gasket? I mean it's not really used for sealing anything, since it's a dry clutch, but it sort of acts like a rubber washer, so you don't bolt on the cover directly onto the case. If nothing else, it helps prevent those bolts from rattling out. I still have that same gasket on after switching to an EVR cover, and that's not even a full cover.
 
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