I just got my 1098. I am wondering if anyone can help me with the clutch. I have had a 998s Bostrom and a 996 before. I know the clutch pull on the 1098 is alot harder than the previouse Duc's. It also engages very late. Almost to the point it spins the back tire when released. Anyway I only have 15 miles on the bike. Is it possible the clutch bleeding proceedure was not done properlly. I would bring it back to the dealer but they are three hours away.
Help please!
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Is the 1098 clutch really harder than previous Ducs? I've heard just the opposite. I've owned several Monsters, a 996, and a 999, all of which had similar clutch pull. None really were harder or worse than any others I had prior. I did however swap out the clutch slave cylinder with an aftermarket one on all my Duc's. The BEST mod hands down! My 1098 isnt even here yet, but I've already picked up the slave unit for it. I have an estra one FS if you're interested...
Listed here within the forum....
http://www.ducati1098.net/forum/showthread.php?t=391
It'll help reduce the clutch effort by 25%.
Last but not least, I doub't your clutch issue is related to the bleeding process.
Listed here within the forum....
http://www.ducati1098.net/forum/showthread.php?t=391
It'll help reduce the clutch effort by 25%.
Last but not least, I doub't your clutch issue is related to the bleeding process.
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131 Posts
That sounds great DucatiGuy! i got stuck in traffic and that clutch pull was killing my wrist! which aftermarket stuff would you recomend? may as well get that mod done too while the bike is being fixed.
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1,111 Posts
The two brands that I recomend are STM and MPL. Both are awesome aftermarket clucth slave units!
The STM is advertised as giving a 25% reduction on clutch effort / pull and the MPL as 30%. Both are made out of billet aluminum and utilize state of the art seals that are FAR superior to those of the OEM slave unit. So you never have to worry about them leaking, which was a common problem on earlier model OEM slave units. The STM is more readily available within the US than the MPL, and retails for $200. If you shop around you can generally find them selling online for around $190. The MPL is harder to find in stock within the US. They do pop on eBay quite frequently and often with no reserve. The auctions usually ends within $140-$170 depending on the demand and qty out for auction. Retail the MPL is listed at $200. The build quality on both units is TOP NOTCH! Not only do they work great, but are impressive to look at as well. Another brand that’s also very reputable and one that I have personally owned is the Yoyodyne unit. Built with similar characteristics as the STM and MPL, the yoyo unit will offer you around 25% reduction in effort. Price wise, the Yoyo will set you back a hair over $200.
The one brand that I’m not too found of is the Evoluzione, or better known as the Evo model. I had this unit, but found this unit lacking the advertised 20 to 25% reduction in clutch effort / pull. Fact to fact, when compared to the other brands I had owned (STM, MPL, and the Yoyo) it was the least effective clutch slave I have ever owned. I literally gave it away, that’s how disappointed I was with it. The Evo also doesn’t have an internal spring, and was the hardest to bleed out of the bunch. On the pro (somewhat pro) side, the Evo offers a 10 year warranty against leaks. That may sound like a plus, but the truth is the Evo units internal cylinder has three rubber o-rings, which for the most part won’t ever leak, and even if they did, the shipping charges you would face in getting the unit back to Evoluzione for repair, would cost more than replacing the o-rings yourself. We’re talking about $1 at the most for all three o-rings and that’s full retail.
Installation for most all clutch slave cylinders is very straight fwd. You have three bolts holding the unit to the engine, and one banjo bolt on top. Swapping out the unit shouldn’t take you more than 10-15min. The bleeding process is very straight fwd, granted you’ve bled something similar (ie: car brakes) prior. With a simple bleed kit you can pick up from most any car parts store, you can have the entire job done in less than 30min. With a more advanced vac-bleed system, you can have it done in half that time. If you’re not much of the DIY’er, any car or bike shop could do it for you and I can honestly say, you wouldn’t pay more than an hours labor charge TOP for the service. I’ve done it so many times, I could probably knock one off in less then 20min.
OK last but not least, the warranty question – An aftermarket clutch slave cylinder will not and CAN NOT void your vehicles warranty covereg in ANY WAY! Its against the LAW! The Magnuson-Moss act of 1975 states very simply, no manufacturer can deny you warranty coverage because you as a consumer have opted to change a part on your vehicle, for a part that was not made by the manufacturer. If they do deny you coverage, they must prove without a reason of doubt that the part you installed was the DIRECT cause of the problem in question.
In other words if you install the clutch slave and a week later your bike is stalling out, Ducati CAN NOT by law deny you warranty work to fix the stalling problem, unless they can prove that the clutch slave is the direct cause of it. In such a case, the clutch slave would have NOTHING to do with a stalling bike (unless of course it was not engaging), but for the sake of argument let’s say it’s a problem with the ECU, they MUST cover the repair. It’s the LAW! Now on the other hand, lets say you swapped out the ECU with an aftermarket one and then you experience stalling issues and the dealer points out the ECU is the problem, then you’re out of luck, but ONLY for the ECU’s warranty. If you’re headlight is not working, that’s an unrelated issues which MUST be covered.
With any aftermarket part or mod, you have to ask yourself, what are the pros and cons. The clutch slave swap is one with very little risk and one that generally wont effect the operations of the engine, when installed and setup correctly. On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being the least problem some or “warranty concerning” should you have any, and 10 being the most (dealer red flag), the clutch slave swap is a 1 all the way! In fact most dealers sell and push aftermarket clutch slave units because they themselves are Ducati owners and know the benefits.
So to sum up my ramblings, aftermarket clutch slave cylinders = HUGE PLUS! Highly recommended! I have one available for sale (check the classifieds section of this forum). If you don’t want mine, no hard feelings, get yours new from someone else – just get one!
You will thank me!
Oh and here's a pic of the MPL unit that was on my 999....
![]()
The STM is advertised as giving a 25% reduction on clutch effort / pull and the MPL as 30%. Both are made out of billet aluminum and utilize state of the art seals that are FAR superior to those of the OEM slave unit. So you never have to worry about them leaking, which was a common problem on earlier model OEM slave units. The STM is more readily available within the US than the MPL, and retails for $200. If you shop around you can generally find them selling online for around $190. The MPL is harder to find in stock within the US. They do pop on eBay quite frequently and often with no reserve. The auctions usually ends within $140-$170 depending on the demand and qty out for auction. Retail the MPL is listed at $200. The build quality on both units is TOP NOTCH! Not only do they work great, but are impressive to look at as well. Another brand that’s also very reputable and one that I have personally owned is the Yoyodyne unit. Built with similar characteristics as the STM and MPL, the yoyo unit will offer you around 25% reduction in effort. Price wise, the Yoyo will set you back a hair over $200.
The one brand that I’m not too found of is the Evoluzione, or better known as the Evo model. I had this unit, but found this unit lacking the advertised 20 to 25% reduction in clutch effort / pull. Fact to fact, when compared to the other brands I had owned (STM, MPL, and the Yoyo) it was the least effective clutch slave I have ever owned. I literally gave it away, that’s how disappointed I was with it. The Evo also doesn’t have an internal spring, and was the hardest to bleed out of the bunch. On the pro (somewhat pro) side, the Evo offers a 10 year warranty against leaks. That may sound like a plus, but the truth is the Evo units internal cylinder has three rubber o-rings, which for the most part won’t ever leak, and even if they did, the shipping charges you would face in getting the unit back to Evoluzione for repair, would cost more than replacing the o-rings yourself. We’re talking about $1 at the most for all three o-rings and that’s full retail.
Installation for most all clutch slave cylinders is very straight fwd. You have three bolts holding the unit to the engine, and one banjo bolt on top. Swapping out the unit shouldn’t take you more than 10-15min. The bleeding process is very straight fwd, granted you’ve bled something similar (ie: car brakes) prior. With a simple bleed kit you can pick up from most any car parts store, you can have the entire job done in less than 30min. With a more advanced vac-bleed system, you can have it done in half that time. If you’re not much of the DIY’er, any car or bike shop could do it for you and I can honestly say, you wouldn’t pay more than an hours labor charge TOP for the service. I’ve done it so many times, I could probably knock one off in less then 20min.
OK last but not least, the warranty question – An aftermarket clutch slave cylinder will not and CAN NOT void your vehicles warranty covereg in ANY WAY! Its against the LAW! The Magnuson-Moss act of 1975 states very simply, no manufacturer can deny you warranty coverage because you as a consumer have opted to change a part on your vehicle, for a part that was not made by the manufacturer. If they do deny you coverage, they must prove without a reason of doubt that the part you installed was the DIRECT cause of the problem in question.
In other words if you install the clutch slave and a week later your bike is stalling out, Ducati CAN NOT by law deny you warranty work to fix the stalling problem, unless they can prove that the clutch slave is the direct cause of it. In such a case, the clutch slave would have NOTHING to do with a stalling bike (unless of course it was not engaging), but for the sake of argument let’s say it’s a problem with the ECU, they MUST cover the repair. It’s the LAW! Now on the other hand, lets say you swapped out the ECU with an aftermarket one and then you experience stalling issues and the dealer points out the ECU is the problem, then you’re out of luck, but ONLY for the ECU’s warranty. If you’re headlight is not working, that’s an unrelated issues which MUST be covered.
With any aftermarket part or mod, you have to ask yourself, what are the pros and cons. The clutch slave swap is one with very little risk and one that generally wont effect the operations of the engine, when installed and setup correctly. On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being the least problem some or “warranty concerning” should you have any, and 10 being the most (dealer red flag), the clutch slave swap is a 1 all the way! In fact most dealers sell and push aftermarket clutch slave units because they themselves are Ducati owners and know the benefits.
So to sum up my ramblings, aftermarket clutch slave cylinders = HUGE PLUS! Highly recommended! I have one available for sale (check the classifieds section of this forum). If you don’t want mine, no hard feelings, get yours new from someone else – just get one!
You will thank me!
Oh and here's a pic of the MPL unit that was on my 999....
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1,111 Posts
Cheap sales plug, but hey its in question and still available......
http://www.ducati1098.net/forum/showthread.php?t=391
![]()
http://www.ducati1098.net/forum/showthread.php?t=391
Joined
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131 Posts
Thanks for the great information! this is my first ducati and any and all info is helpfull. I deffinately may buy that off of you, just need to wait and see how much im getting on my insurance claim. So other than good looks and lower effort is there any performance difference? (btw deffinately dig the red annodized finish)
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1,111 Posts
I'm not sure if you could use a speed bleeder type valve in this application, as it would have to be a banjo type valve, and as far as I've seen, the speed bleed valves they sell are not that type. The thread size is also much larger than most of the speed bleed valves that I've come across, then again I may be wrong. They may have something out thats new that would work here.
Neverheless, the bleeding process of the clutch slave unit is very easy. You can spend the big bucks on fancy valves or even a vac-bleeder system, but you don't need it.
For around $10 you can buy a brake/clutch bleeding kit from just about any auto parts store. Its a plastic cup with a rubber hose attached to it. Heck you can even make one if you want (many use small soda bottles). You attach the hose to the top open end of the banjo bolt and begin the pump and bleed process. If you prefill the slave unit, you can actually have it bled in a matter of minutes. Some will also advise you to bleed the system again after about an hour or so, as some air bubble may surface, but I've never found that to be an issue as long as you bleed it right the first time.
You'll hear a lot of people talking about how hard it is to bleed a Ducati slave cylinder and all the trouble they went through, but the truth of the matter is - it's so easy! In fact it's the easiest of all beed jobs as you're dealing with one single line, and you're working from both ends of it.
I will post up a FOOL-PROOF DIY for the process if anyone is interested.
Neverheless, the bleeding process of the clutch slave unit is very easy. You can spend the big bucks on fancy valves or even a vac-bleeder system, but you don't need it.
For around $10 you can buy a brake/clutch bleeding kit from just about any auto parts store. Its a plastic cup with a rubber hose attached to it. Heck you can even make one if you want (many use small soda bottles). You attach the hose to the top open end of the banjo bolt and begin the pump and bleed process. If you prefill the slave unit, you can actually have it bled in a matter of minutes. Some will also advise you to bleed the system again after about an hour or so, as some air bubble may surface, but I've never found that to be an issue as long as you bleed it right the first time.
You'll hear a lot of people talking about how hard it is to bleed a Ducati slave cylinder and all the trouble they went through, but the truth of the matter is - it's so easy! In fact it's the easiest of all beed jobs as you're dealing with one single line, and you're working from both ends of it.
I will post up a FOOL-PROOF DIY for the process if anyone is interested.
I'm surprised you say your 1098 clutch is so hard compared to the other Dukes you've had. I think the 1098's is much lighter than the 998 I had previously. I've had no issues with how it releases. Maybe you should try bleeding it and re-adjusting - that's cheaper than replacing.
Found someone state-side that carries the MPL clutch slave...
http://www.ducatidesigns.com/home $175 plus shipping 2 week wait for red anodized.
http://www.ducatidesigns.com/home $175 plus shipping 2 week wait for red anodized.
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