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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 2012 848 EVO CORSE. Went to a track day and since then a battery drains after about 48-72 hours to the point of not getting any response when turning the ignition key. Initially I though it might have been because of other things hooked up to the battery but that’s not the case (currently only have the main harness hooked up). I wouldn’t know where to start to diagnose but seems like there is a constant drain. Are shops able to identify the issue? Do I get a volt meter and start testing it? Throw the bike out? Always keep it on a tender for the rest of the bike’s days? Any help, tips, or suggestions are appreciated.


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Unhook the battery and test it using a voltmeter. Then put it on a charger and test it again. Then test it again about 3 hours later (batteries always put out a high number right after being charged).

Throw it out is another option but you must always dispose of them in a responsible way. Send it to me and I will make sure its responsibly recycled.
 

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First determine whether the battery is being drained or is simply failing to hold a charge.

Disconnect the battery's positive connection and wait two or three days. Reconnect it — and if it fails to start the bike, you need to replace the battery.
 

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After you have followed Shazaam's good advice to make sure it isn't a bad battery issue...

The best way to check for current draw is using a test light in series with the negative cable. Note that it has to be a simple bulb type test light and not fancy LED.
Disconnect the negative at the battery, connect the test light clip to the battery and then connect the probe end to the negative cable. If it lights up, you have a draw that is large enough to worry about. Draws under 30 ma are common and normal and that is why the bulb type is the way to go - it just won't light up if the draw is really small.
To diagnose further, if you have a draw:
While keeping an eye on the test light, remove each fuse and see if the light goes out. Do not put them back in yet... Remember that the Reg/Rec is always connected so it needs to be disconnected after the fuses, if you still have a draw. Light out = you found the item.
The reason for not reinstalling the fuses as you go? Sometimes 2 items may be shorted together so either will show a draw. Think wires to rear lights and DDC connector, for instance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I forgot to mention that it’s a brand new Shorai battery. That was the first thing I did is replace the battery but the that didn’t solve the issue. We can rule out battery not holding a charge as it was two that drained.


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Hard to tell from the image if it is "too fancy". The really simple ones with a bulb are the best for this stuff. I have fancy LED ones for checking injectors and so on. They are MUCH too sensitive for this type of simple draw check. Your local Autozone or whatever should carry a cheap test light. I'm thinking under 10 bux...
 

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One problem I've had on my track bike is leaving the ignition on, night before track day I left it on. I got a charge on for about 3 hours and it brought it back. If you are killing a brand to Shorai something has to be going on with the bike? When you charge the Shorai are you using their charger or a conventional one?

Anyways I've drained the battery 3 times and it's come back full so I'm at a loss. Are these bike like cars where you can start it disconnect the battery and it will run off it's own charger? I wonder if you are running off the battery when they bike is running?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hard to tell from the image if it is "too fancy". The really simple ones with a bulb are the best for this stuff. I have fancy LED ones for checking injectors and so on. They are MUCH too sensitive for this type of simple draw check. Your local Autozone or whatever should carry a cheap test light. I'm thinking under 10 bux...


Do you happen to have a picture of one? Was hoping to just order one on amazon instead of driving to autozone.

T, it’s not a matter of charging the battery. It just dies quicker than normal just sitting there. By quicker as in I can see the Volts go down on the dash in a matter of hours.


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Mckay PL26001. Google it and comes up on amazon and ebay etc. it is a simple bulb type test light.

Looks like it might not be made any more but this is the type you want. Cheap chinese stuff is fine, too. Just make it sure it uses a good old normal filament type bulb.
 

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Do you happen to have a picture of one? Was hoping to just order one on amazon instead of driving to autozone.

T, it’s not a matter of charging the battery. It just dies quicker than normal just sitting there. By quicker as in I can see the Volts go down on the dash in a matter of hours.


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Could the alternator / regulator be discharging ?

This is why I asked if our bikes will run without battery?
 

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Could the alternator / regulator be discharging ?



This is why I asked if our bikes will run without battery?

I had my Voltage Regulator Rectifier replaced about a year ago for Rick’s MOSFET. Don’t think that would be the issue. On top of that the battery jumps right back up when I start the bike.


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Mckay PL26001. Google it and comes up on amazon and ebay etc. it is a simple bulb type test light.



Looks like it might not be made any more but this is the type you want. Cheap chinese stuff is fine, too. Just make it sure it uses a good old normal filament type bulb.


Ordered a similar one today that should be delivered tomorrow. Will report back on my results.


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I had my Voltage Regulator Rectifier replaced about a year ago for Rick’s MOSFET. Don’t think that would be the issue. On top of that the battery jumps right back up when I start the bike.
Just make sure to keep an open mind that the Reg/Rec may still be a problem. Electronics fail in all sorts of ways and internal shorting could be what happened. It may still work for charging the battery, but may be the source of the draw when the engine is off.
 

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Just make sure to keep an open mind that the Reg/Rec may still be a problem. Electronics fail in all sorts of ways and internal shorting could be what happened. It may still work for charging the battery, but may be the source of the draw when the engine is off.

Something definitely happened after pushing the bike at the track day and it taxed the electrical system.


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Could the alternator / regulator be discharging ?

This is why I asked if our bikes will run without battery?
I'm not 100% sure, but I do believe they do run of the charging system and the battery is really just needed to start. My Honda track bike has battery powered ignition, really everything would run of the battery and the charging system just charges the battery. The thing about the lithium battery is they are really just for starting.
 

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Don't run the engine without a battery

Could the alternator / regulator be discharging ?

This is why I asked if our bikes will run without battery?
The battery acts as a buffer in the electrical system. In modern vehicles (not just bikes) the electronics need the battery to soak up the voltage surges and spikes. Think of the battery as an accumulator in a hydraulic system - without it pressure may fluctuate too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just make sure to keep an open mind that the Reg/Rec may still be a problem. Electronics fail in all sorts of ways and internal shorting could be what happened. It may still work for charging the battery, but may be the source of the draw when the engine is off.


https://youtu.be/G4qhplFEi-I

Here’s what happened. Does that mean there’s no draw? This puzzles me


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Finally looked at your video. My old iPad 1 won't do youtube...

The light going on is the keep alive circuits being charged. The light doesn't stay bright so you don't have any dead shorts or large draws when you did the testing. The bulb is still lit dimly so there is a draw. Try pulling fuses and the reg/rec connector until it goes out.

Make sure to check the system relays to the right of the battery. My bike ran fine but the relays were corroded to shit! They could short slightly across the corrosion.
They are cheap so replace them if they are original.
 
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