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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I'm the proud new parent of a 2009 1198.

I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me the easiest & most economical way to adjust my clutch's disengagement. Right now the bike pulls hard and late in the clutch's release. I'd like it to be a more gradual disengagement, and for it to start earlier in the release.

I tried searching through the threads for this topic but couldn't seem to find a specific answer to my question. Maybe someone has a quick answer for me, or can direct me to the proper thread.

Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks for your time.

-Mike
 

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Oberon 29mm. You'll have to change the fluid more often though. In fact, do that now and then see if you still think you need a new clutch slave.
 

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Yoyodyne seems to be the best out there. Had the Ducati Performance slave and was not a fan. Currently back with OEM but pulling the trigger soon on the yoyo.
 

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Before spending the $$ on a new slave cylinder, you will want to flush/bleed the present fluid. The symptoms you describe are probably partly due to the fluid getting a bit old.
That involves syringing the present fluid from the reservoir, and bleeding new fluid through the system.It needs to be Dot 4, preferably in a lighter colour so you can see when it becomes discoloured. I use Castrol Response, which is inexpensive. The clutch fluid needs changing very frequently on these..
Of course you will be changing the fluid if you get an aftermarket slave, and you may attribute all the improvement to it, whereas the new fluid may have contributed significantly to the improvement.
Any time you buy a second-hand vehicle all the fluids should be changed early on.
If you change the fluid and are still not happy, try a larger-bore slave as suggested. This will give a lighter hand action, and also have the benefit you sought of allowing the take-up to occur over a slightly wider range of lever movement.
But be aware that the price of using a larger bore slave is less plate separation, and the fluid needs to be bled more frequently to enable quiet engagement of 1st and neutral with one.
So you will need to be proficient at bleeding the fluid anyway. I suggest you go and equip yourself and practise what is only a two minute job once you are familiar with it. And be sure to bleed the fluid at the master cylinder also, as some air tends to collect there.
Once this is done you are in a better position to decide whether you need to go to a new slave.
Your choices there are between 28, 29 or 30 mm slave piston diameters, compared to the 26 mm standard. I have had a long and perfectly reliable run from a German MPL 30 mm slave, but most are of comparable quality.

PS. Of course this is just the longer version of Duc_L_Over's sage advice..
 

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30mm MPL or STM slave would be my recommendation. As Pat says most brands are of decent quality but I can personally recommend both these specific brands for the same reasons. I have a 30mm STM on one of my bikes that has been in continuous service for 9 years and still as good as the day I fitted it. I found the larger bore gives less lever effort and a longer progressive take up starting with the lever much closer to the grip, which is what I prefer also.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the help everybody, it's greatly appreciated by a newbie owner like myself. I ended up going with the Oberon 29mm, but I'm going to try bleeding the system before I put the new slave on to see what happens.
 

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One of the first upgrades I made was to replace the clutch slave. Huge difference.
 
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