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Discussion Starter #1
I think i got air in my lines when i was trying to change my front brake fluid. I stupidly tried to bleed the master at the end and think i got air in at that point. I started at the left front piston, then right, then did the master. The lever is now stuck and i cant pull it in. How can i bleed the whole system and fix this issue? I did the clutch no problem.....

Was using a mityvac not sure if i need other tools for the brakes.
 

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Go back to the master, after making sure there is fluid in the Reservoir, bleed the master by pumping the brake lever three times an holding it until you loosen the bleed screw.. air will eventually escape after repeated times. Do it until there is no air bubbles, checking frequently to insure there is fluid in the reservoir. Then.. go to the left caliper, ditto. Then the right, ditto. Finally after both caliper have been bled, (no air bubbles), go finally to the master again. No air? Good you are done. I use a plastic hose fit to go over the bleed nipples, and a small plastic container to capture and hold the excess fluid. Never used a pumpy thingy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Now that is the process I figured and I gave that a shot but I cant seem to get fluid out of the master, keep pulling air. Do I need to crack the bleeder nipple first before the brake lever will pull in? Also do I need to worry about fluid splashing out of the res when I pull the break lever?
 

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If you pull the lever in slowly the fluid should stay in the reservoir. only fill 3/4, as you only have to keep air from getting sucked in the system. Remember, air bubbles rise in the system, which is why to bleed the rear brake system you have to remove the brake caliper and raise it above the master to get the air out. Keep trying, you'll get it. Also UTube video may be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I now know why people hate bleeding brakes ARGGGGG!!!! Was at it for a while last night and still no joy. First I tried your method of just running a hose from the bleeder to an empty bottle, pump brake 3 times and hold, crack the bleeder so pressure releases and handle comes in, keep handle held in all the way until bleeder is closed then release. Did that at the master then left and right calipers. I also tried using the mityvac on the left and right calipers as shown in this youtube video (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=T-N4AFNnpek) but I cant seem to get the fluid to drain much no matter how much I open the bleeder, I would have figured the res would drain pretty quickly but its not. Any suggestions? Getting pretty frustrated at this point... Also not sure if it matters but the front brakes are still clamped on the rotors a little, I can spin the wheel with my hand but they have a little pressure on the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Been doing some more reading, looks like i just need 2 people to bleed this thing easily. Regarding the front pads, do i need to press them back in so they are not clamped down on the rotor before i try to bleed again? If so, can i just use a flat head to pry the pads back into the caliper or is there a special way i should do it?

Here is my plan of attack:

Start at master, then left caliper, then right caliper, maybe master again at the end if still feels like air in system.

Attach hose to bleeder nipple and empty bottle, pump up brake lever about 3 times and then hold on last pump, crack the bleeder slowly and lever should slowly compress. Close the bleeder before the lever touches the handle, do not release the lever until bleeder is closed.

How many reservoirs of brake fluid should i be going through for each bleed? (master, left, right)

Anything else i need to take into account?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok i think i may have been psyching myself out because this was the first time i did the clutch and brakes by myself. I just re-bled the front brakes and took it for a spin and everything seemed to be working fine. Did a couple of hard brakes from 50-70mph and no issues.The brake lever is now rock hard, i would definitely say it was spongey before. Brakes activate with very little pull on the lever now.

The brakes are still rubbing on the rotors but i remember they did this before, not sure if they are rubbing more now but i did not have to fight the bike when i was moving it around. Is there a way to check this?

I am assuming this means everything went well? Like i said this is my first time so really dont know what to watch out for. Bike was shifting WAYYYY smoother with the new clutch fluid, will definitely have to bleed that regularly now that i know the process!
 

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If the brake pads are OEM, they are super hard and grabby,...ie.. they don't wear too fast, the pads will rub for a long time. Everything else you said in your last post, makes me believe you did a real good job!!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sweet! Not sure what the deal was with the mityvac, the damn thing worked great for the clutch but whenever i tried to bleed a part of the brake system it would pull alot of air and very little fluid, i think the hose was just not making a good enough seal around the nipple. I am guessing this is because the brake system is under way more pressure than the clutch? Either way, i found out what works so will stick with it, alot easier than fucking around with that pump anyway. Can i do the clutch the same way (pull lever, crack bleeder, etc.) or do i need to stick with the mityvac for that?

Also, was the spongey brake lever i had prior to doing this a sign that i need to change the fluid? Now that i think back that lever has been squishy for some time..... glad it didn't end up in a crash. I am assuming i want the lever to be rock solid like it is now?

Thanks again for the help man!
 

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Solid lever is good. Same technique applies for all clutch, brake, systems. folks been doing it that way for eons. Some folks like the bleeder vac tools, but I have always used the "old tried and true" way. Place of clear plastic hose and a plastic catch container. By the way, "spongy, fading pressure usually is an indication there is air/water/etc. in the system, prolly not gonna fail until the lever hits the throttle grip, even then you can double, triple pump, kinda like the way we used to race Suzuki 1100 GSXR. The exception was the pads would wear out during the race!!!
 
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