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How To: Factory Pro Shift Kit Installation

22K views 43 replies 13 participants last post by  thestonesteels 
#1 · (Edited)
I installed the Factory Pro Hybrid Ceramic Shift Kit a couple of weeks ago and just got around to finishing a How To video.

This is a great upgrade that makes a significant difference on how my 09' 848 shifts. Tighter, smoother and more precise are three words that I would use to describe the final result. And absolutely no false neutrals to date; (I've ridden both on the street and at the track so far).

Enjoy:



Full URL: https://youtu.be/c3QXwB9UROA

.
 
#6 ·
If your talking about the detent arm, I believe it helps to keep the gearbox drum in place when you select a gear. The Ducati manual refers to it as the 'Gear Stop Lever,' if I'm reading it correctly.

Wow. Impressive video man. Thanks for the hard work creating that puppy.
Thank you!

Why is the factory pro better than stock?
Looks like the stock has a bearing on it the same as the pro.
Just curious as to what makes it better?
The Factory Pro piece (the one I installed), has a 'Hybrid Ceramic Micro Bearing.' I didn't actually see a big difference on the arm or the bearing. In my opinion, it's all about the spring. Heavier Duty with more spring tension. Some one at Factory Pro -- or some one here with more knowledge might have a better answer.

The bottom line for me is, now when I shift it's a much more confident feeling over the stock set up. And, to date, no false neutrals with 4 track days since the installation.
 
#14 ·
There's 2 levels of detent arm and spring Pro Shift kits. One has a steel raced hybrid ceramic bearing on the arm and the other has a less expensive steel bearing. Both use the same F-Pro shift spring.

There's another shift mod, too.
It's a slightly softer shift lever return spring. I think Duc shift levers are too stiffly hung. Being too stiff makes it hard to find the little neutral slot.
And, the F-Pro shifter lever return spring is shotpeened and heat treated to prevent breaking. I think every 2000 and later Duc owner should carry a spare in their tool kit.
Installs on the left side of the bike and requires flywheel and shift shaft removal and shifter adjusting.
Available from many vendors.

Marc Salvisberg
 
#19 ·
Ductch -- THANK YOU! I thought this was just a stubborn part of the project. I should've guessed another tool was the answer.

Any way, this is the tool you're talking about, right (circled in yellow)? It looks like a punch or something similar--the one on the right is my Craftsman part #42903. Is this what you use? I couldn't find it listed as a 'special' Ducati tool...

I'll have to add an annotation to the original video.

Thanks again.
 

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#22 ·
Yes that is the tool I was referring to. In Dutch it is called a drevel. Tried to translate, but got some weird outcomes. ;)
I think the proper USA name would be "alignment punch", but any appropriate tapered or properly sized rod would work.
"Alignment" that was the key missing word! Thanks for joggling my memory Marc!

And Dutch, thanks again for this great feedback. I added these two back-to-back annotations to the video starting at 4:49:

"UPDATE:
Use an alignment punch or similar tool during this step
."

and:

"Place the punch inside the hole seen here on the front face of the small gear to align the teeth. The drum will come off (and go back on), MUCH easier if you do this!"


.
 
#24 ·
Very nice. Thank you.
Had mine done at the Dealers under Extended Warranty. November, same day I put the bike away.
Only did 60 kms on it and loved the actual real change of gears, first time every time.
Had false neutrals all the way up the box. Yuck
Was told they put the upgraded version on, whatever that means
 
#25 ·
Thought I'd join this thread.
First, thank you everyone for the great input. Marc and Charles, outstanding info and great video. I just ordered the ceramic bearing/spring kit. I'm tired of false neutrals on the track leading to dangerous situations. I had the shift drum stuck in neutral bit happen once too. So hopefully, this will take care of that once and for all.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Jimmy, you're going to be very happy with this upgrade. I was tired of the false Ns too. The only good thing about a false N is it allows you to test your mettle under stress. I had one too many tests and was ready to move on--this kit will firm-up your shifting and make it right!
 
#26 ·
Just caught up with this revived thread.

I fitted the Factory Pro Ceramic Bearing detent kit, and am very happy with the result. I think I provided some feedback on my 'Pat's Engine Overhaul' thread.

I got it through Motowheels. All good, except for the crazy postage for such a small item in a rather large box..

As Marc S. described - the kit has a stiffer spring (2.3 mm wire, as against 2.0 mm on the stocker from memory) but reduced friction thanks to the proper bearing on the roller.

I found it makes the gearchange easier, quicker, and more positive. A real improvement. Can't remember missing a shift since fitting it (but then that didn't really happen before).

With a lighter clutch action courtesy of a larger diameter slave cylinder, plus the ceramic detent kit, gearchanges just feel 'slicker'. Riding bikes with the standard shift feels a bit 'clunky' and stiff by comparison.

BUT - yes, there's always a but.. I had difficulty removing the original mechanism. The Loctite used on there meant I had to damage the (special) pivot bolt to remove it. It was ridiculously seized with presumably a too-high-number Loctite.

So between the postage ($35 from memory..) and the stock pivot bolt (about $9 here) it wasn't such a cheap mod.

I guess they remedied this Loctite choice on subsequent models, as I've not heard mention of this issue from others. Mine is a 'vintage' 2007 model..
 
#27 ·
Pat, I can see how that special bolt could easily incur damage if an over-abundant amount of locktite was used at the factory. The torx head as you know is rather shallow... fortunately on my 09' the locktite wasn't an issue and mine came off relatively easy.

I echo everything you say about a more positive shifting experience. I consistently had False Neutrals before my Factory Pro days, but after the installation--zilch!
 
#30 ·
I never had the false neutral problem, but it just felt lighter/easier and more positive with the upgrade.

It just flicks through the gears better when you're in a hurry, would be my impression. I hope you find the same GR8.

And hopefully you can get the pivot bolt undone without a chisel..
 
#34 ·
Of course I applied heat to mine also, but (as Charles noted) the inadequate small/shallow Torx engagement was already compromised by then.

The Loctite on there was unreal solid. I had to re-tap the 8 mm hole before I could fit the new one. Unfortunately this will send debris into the motor if the crankcases aren't being separated.

Maybe get in there and try removing the bolt Gr8 before you order your parts. My bolt took a week or so to come in.

And good luck! Forewarned is forearmed, as they used to say.

Even though I only have two arms..

:ahhh:
 
#40 ·
Ok, here are some of my experience to add:

1) My clutch basket but needed a 30mm socket.
2) The big washer in the clutch hub was very tight on the shaft. Both removing and installing required some extra persuasion.

Waiting on clutch basket holder to finish the install. If you have a Yoyodyne slipper, you won't have some of the same large bands or washers that chuck pulled off last before the basket comes out. At least mine didn't, lol.

Great instructions chuck! You're invaluable!
 
#43 ·
Ok, here are some of my experience to add:

1) My clutch basket but needed a 30mm socket.
2) The big washer in the clutch hub was very tight on the shaft. Both removing and installing required some extra persuasion.

Waiting on clutch basket holder to finish the install. If you have a Yoyodyne slipper, you won't have some of the same large bands or washers that chuck pulled off last before the basket comes out. At least mine didn't, lol.

Great instructions chuck! You're invaluable!
Yeah, my Clutch Basket nut was 30mm also. '08 848.
 
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