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I hear you on the instruction, Jasper and Brett both almost killed me with the 1000s of questions I had for them. Then I had the aha moment and everything just clicked. You can fire up the bulbs to test if it all works before you tuck all the wiring away and seal the headlight. That's what I did
I didn't almost kill you lmao!!! Don't give these fine people the wrong impression 😈
 
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Lmao, there was a period of time when you deemed me hopeless and proceeded to tell me I should not touch my timing belts based on my success with the Retrofit
You took me seriously? That's absurd! I'm appalled and hurt :( that was constructive criticism to get ur butt in gear lol
 
With the splitted harness provided from RFS you don't even have to splice wires. It is plug and play everything!
If I had known what to do I bet the wiring part only take a couple of hours (Tchase: I bet you can do it in a day if you think winter is too far away)

Your install helped fill in some blanks ;)

Winter will be a good time and the cash flow 😏
 
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Update...

got the H11 connectors in one day... YAY.

It was the female so they don't match.... NAY!
Only place I can find that's selling the male kit with the small clips that's supposed to attach to the wire is in Canada. Shipping time 10-12 days... more NAY.

Found a fake resistance harness with the H11 female attached to it in Denmark, shipping time 1 day, cost around 30 dollars... meeeh-ay. At least I can get it on the road within the week.

 
Update...

got the H11 connectors in one day... YAY.

It was the female so they don't match.... NAY!
Only place I can find that's selling the male kit with the small clips that's supposed to attach to the wire is in Canada. Shipping time 10-12 days... more NAY.

Found a fake resistance harness with the H11 female attached to it in Denmark, shipping time 1 day, cost around 30 dollars... meeeh-ay. At least I can get it on the road within the week.

U have came this far just call the retrofit source and exchange it for an h11 harness don't get a cheap one and risk something going wrong down the road.
 
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U have came this far just call the retrofit source and exchange it for an h11 harness don't get a cheap one and risk something going wrong down the road.
Thought about it, but the wires are just cliking out of the cable house easily. I tested with the females I got already.

Don't want to wait a few weeks for shipments arrive from across the pond (and don't want to spend some hundred dollars on air freight).
 
Discussion starter · #292 ·
Yeah, thanks Jasper. I am all sorted out.
What bugged me the most whas the plugs not matching up. A hell of a task to identify that when I didn't even know there was something called a H7 or H11 plug. I have never done wiring before, maybe I soldered something up a decade ago but that's about it.

With the splitted harness provided from RFS you don't even have to splice wires. It is plug and play everything!
If I had known what to do I bet the wiring part only take a couple of hours (Tchase: I bet you can do it in a day if you think winter is too far away)

Wiring only took 3 minutes! It took longer for the solder gun to warm up ha ha. If you're having trouble sourcing a nice H11 plug, you could always use the stock halogen bulb.

There a how-to on HID planet, but basically you crush the bulb and remove all the internals. This leaves you with two perfect terminals on which you solder your +/-, provided your soldering gun has enough power (as those terminals are quite a bit thicker).

Once it's soldered on, you would just fill the entire cavity with epoxy and/or black sealant.

As an added bonus you now have the 90degree h11 connector and your fitment will be OEM level.

I've done that couple times and, while it is a bit more work than just buying a new connector, the fitment is second to none.
 
Wraaaaaahhhh finally. After receiving the female H11, disassemble the wires the came with (not hard) and trying a few configurations on the RTS harness it got solved.

In then used a hell of a time to figure out where to put shit as the cable are either ridicoulus short or too long. Anyway, 7 hours in this evening everything is strapped up, bolted back on and ready to go... ehhh, except I have a few things left over :wtf:

These came off the headlight housing at some point when I was under the nose unbolting stuff. Don't know where they go


I have these left over as well. I can't find in the workshop manual where they go. I have labelled them as Nose cone bolts, but according to the manual only three bolts are used and they are in. Please don't say they are important... it is currently 2 am and I am bat shit tired and just want to ride the bike tomorrow.


I got all the wiring figured out, headligts sealed and mounted ballasts and amp connectors. What a nightmare :D

Ballast left and right side


Control unit on main harness

about 5mm clearance when bars are turned all the way over. I have secured t with strip so it dosen't "fall" outwards



I can post more pictures tomorrow... gotta sleep

btw... lights look AWESOME!
 
Nice man just don't forget to aim your headlights while your sitting on the bike to get proper angle. Also do it with the front fairing off makes it easier. And those bolts are either for the sides to mount to the intake or the bottom two holes of the headlight to the front fairing stay
 
My metal washer is laying on my desk right now as I forgot to put it back where it came from. It's from the tip of the headlight, there is one Allen screw that goes into the headlight. It's inside a little square on the bottom. The square also has a rubber encased bolt that the under front fairing triangle screws into....hope I'm making sense...
 
View attachment 94623

Right underneath number 1,

Also the little round washer looking things I believe are under the round caps little bit Lower and between 1 and 2
Yeah, guessed the metal spacer was for the center mount but that got to be another time.

The white "washers" are actually made out of a sandy composite, could very well go into those holes, there are two more on the top side on the outside of the projector caps.
I have looked these wholes, they have no purpose at all and at not complete through the housing.
 
Nice man just don't forget to aim your headlights while your sitting on the bike to get proper angle. Also do it with the front fairing off makes it easier. And those bolts are either for the sides to mount to the intake or the bottom two holes of the headlight to the front fairing stay
Put the front fairing on and the vent covers, it was not thight but it can quite easily be done with a extender on the wrench.

They are adjusted too ;)
 
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