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Looks like 12 and 9. Two on each side ( 4 total) one goes outer one goes inner on each side.
Damnit, I have to take the fairings and air vent covers off again lol.

Was doing an evening ride and I must say, the lenses was not dialed in at all. Shiiit, they were all over the place. Got honked at and flashed at with both headlights and emergency indicators.

Rode back home and off to a place with a large building in front and got it adjusted more properly.

They are indeed bright as the day. They can light up high way signs half a mile away!
 
Get the Kurvy girl kit makes taking the fairings off painless
X2 I agree. I can take my side panels off in under 20 seconds no joke ask dimity I sent em a video of that 😎 only thing I did different was I did all d-ring heads instead of a mixture of pan head bolts and d-rings like the kit offers
 

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Damnit, I have to take the fairings and air vent covers off again lol.



Was doing an evening ride and I must say, the lenses was not dialed in at all. Shiiit, they were all over the place. Got honked at and flashed at with both headlights and emergency indicators.



Rode back home and off to a place with a large building in front and got it adjusted more properly.



They are indeed bright as the day. They can light up high way signs half a mile away!

I got flashed at tonight twice going up and down the hills. I adjusted them properly to just under the sideview mirrors of a car from 25 feet. Don't know if lowering even lower is a solution. But then again I'm little and need all the visibility I can get...
 
Discussion starter · #307 ·
Damnit, I have to take the fairings and air vent covers off again lol.

Was doing an evening ride and I must say, the lenses was not dialed in at all. Shiiit, they were all over the place. Got honked at and flashed at with both headlights and emergency indicators.

Rode back home and off to a place with a large building in front and got it adjusted more properly.

They are indeed bright as the day. They can light up high way signs half a mile away!
I am SO GLAD to hear that you're back on the road. You deserve a medal for your perseverance (and also the number of pages you've added to this thread).

Mind you, even the OEM HID's on my perfectly stock truck (which I've checked my beam height numerous times) gets flashed once in a while.

I guess you just gotta stop doing so much wheelies on your bike with the new headlights
 
I am SO GLAD to hear that you're back on the road. You deserve a medal for your perseverance (and also the number of pages you've added to this thread).

Mind you, even the OEM HID's on my perfectly stock truck (which I've checked my beam height numerous times) gets flashed once in a while.

I guess you just gotta stop doing so much wheelies on your bike with the new headlights
Haha, thanks Jasper. I'll get back with a complete write-up soon of my experience.

No wheelies, just off with approximately 35 degrees :crazyeyes:
 
Aight... here it goes

This modification takes a loooooong time. If you're think of riding tomorrow, don't. But again I'm a dimwit at mechanical and electrical stuff so I have been banging my head against the wall more than once.
Secondly I accidnetially bought the wiring harness' witht the H7 and not the H11 plugs... makes a hell of a difference when trying to figure out where what goes :D
I am around 20h in, some more inclined can probably do it in half the time,

Disclaimer: This is a write from different sources and a special thanks should go out to VJ020 for making it possible as of this thread in the first place and then to bdaroci2010, Tchase and Dmitriy5099 as the last pages of this thread clearly shows.

Everything I bought has been out of the The Retrofit Source i US, count on import taxes if you are outside US or bring it home yourself if travelling there.

As stated by bdaroci2010 before,
The purchase list for this project (based on a double low/high beam setup):
1. H11 Dual Output Relay Harness
LINK
2. Ballasts
Either choose 35W or 55W. The 55w gives more of a light output but shortens the life time of the bulp and drops the colour of the light with around 1000k.
35W Ballast LINK
55w ballasts LINK
3. H1 bulps
LINK
4. Mini H1 projectors
LINK
5. Bulb/amp extensions
It is not a must and I found a good way to place my ballasts without, but it can give you possibilty for placing ballasts on the frame more easily.
LINK
6. Headlight sealant
A must-buy as it works so good and there are plenty to go around
LINK
7. Headlight splitter harness
Remember too chose this as you will not need to splice any wires, it's all plug'n'play
LINK

Carbon frame to hold the smaller RTS mini moto projectors in place. Buy it from VJ020 / Jasper. Great guy, fast repsonse, always helpful and kind.
If you chose this frame you need to get 6 pcs of UHX 3mm bolts and nylon lock nuts as the European bolts are of a slightly different measurement than the US apprently. At least the ones I could find was off by half a milimeter.
(EDIT: Jasper told me he would drill the holes that much larger so it fits both US and EU 4mm bolts).



For dismounting fairings, vent covers and nose, please take a look i the workshop manual found here: Link


Step 1 - To unmount the headlight unit

1) Take off side fairings
2) Take off air vent covers
3) Take off the nose fairing, remember there's a bolt on the underside of the headlight unit behind a rubber washer.
4) Pull the plugs from the left and right parking light and the main wire in the middle
5) unbolt the three bolts of the headlight unit and it comes right off

Step 2 - To disassemble the headlight unit


Tools needed:
Small, medium and large flat head screwdrivers
Exactoknife
Gloves
Maybe a heatgun

BRACE YOURSELF!
It WILL take time and is a PITA to do - nothing covered up.
This part is by far the hardest and most time consuming.
Ducati unfortunately used a non-heat dissolving rubbersealant that is sticky as hell. The older the bike the more sticky it'll apparently be.
I had good experience with putting the unit in the oven for 10 minutes at 120C/260F.

When coming out hot use the smaller screw driver and start plying in one of the cornes. Take the exactoknife and start cutting the crack all around the assemblly line.
It'll take some time before you see any result but take your time and take care not to screw up the plastic housing or crack the clear cover.
When you feel the housing has cooled too much put it back in the oven and repeat the process until the clear lens comes off.
Be careful of not overheating the unit, especially the bolts tend to stay hot a lot longer than the plastic.
When you start getting to know the materials you can add more force to the plying. I got surprised at how much it actually takes to pry the two from each other in the end but use baby steps.

Another eye-opener was to discover that you had to go in and under the plastic housing to get around the clear lens. It is not enough just to get to the bottom of the assembly line.
Hopelessly pictured here, where the red are the clear lens, the blue the plastic cover and the grey the sealant.


When the two are apart you can scrabe the rest of the sealant out of the assembly line with a small screw driver or knife (but it is also time consuming)

Step 3 - Change projectors

This part is just straight forward work. Unscrew each of the adjusting rods and take off the stock projektor. When off unscrew the aluminium L-shaped bracket



Now bolt the carbon bracket directly onto the Mini Moto projector


and bolt the carbon bracket on to the aluminium bracket. Remember to use the spacers provided along with the carbon brackets as there are bolts on the projector that makes it impossible to fit the carbon bracket directly on the aluminium one.



You should now have a setup looking like this:


In each projector you can place the high beam connector cable kit to the backside of the procetor and assemble the plug

Put the put the bulp and bulp wire (the one with the rubber sealant cap) in the projector now

Now you can use the splitter harness and plug both of the high beam connector cables to the single high beam plug coming from you main cable. It will be the plug in the headlight unit with a brown and white wire (left side, driver direction).

Now you are finished with you dual high beam.

Put your new projectors in the house and screw them on to the adjusting rods.
Strip your wire up appropriately so it's not dangling all over the place and REMEMBER TO MAKE SURE you're low beam plug (yellow/brown wire) are pushed as far back under the right projecter (drivers direction) as possible. It is vital you can access it from the backside of the housing when the projector is in!
Marked where the red arrow is:


Before doing anything else I would suggest you put everything together to test for errors. You want to discover now and not when you have assembled everything and bolted it back in place.
You need to attach the headlight unit to the frame again because you need the main cable to activate the light, and the cable is relatively short.


You also need your relay harness with the control unit to be attached to the battery and it is a good time to do that, because you will then know how much wire you have in the end to fit ballasts and AMP connectors.
There's a small hole on the backside of the battery box where you can slide the two cables "Battry (+) and Ground/Chassis (-) through. Connect them to the battery poles respectively and close up the battery box.
Route the wires up along the frame to the triple clam. Secure the wires with strips.
The Battery (+) is noteably much longer, but pull all the excess wire up there as well, I'll attend it later.
Here's a picture of the assembly order:

Let the relay harness dangle off the top of the triple clamp will get back to the rest of the wires as well.

If everything works go on, if not... search for errors
 
Step 4 - Assembly of the headlight unit


Take your rubber sealant and put it into the grove on the plastic cover. Make sure to press it firmly in.
Bake the back side of the headlight unit with the sealant in the oven as the producer prescribes (currently 7 minutes at 130C/265F)
Put on the clear lens and press it firmly againt each other while securing all the plastick locks are clicked back into place.
You can remove excess material with a knife when it's colled off.

Take the back plates for the headlight unit and drill a 18-20mm whole in the back where the bulp plug is, run the bulp wires with the rubber sealant through the hole. For the high beam side (left side drivers direction) you can close is off, leave it be for the low beam.
When I drilled mine 20mm they where a little too big so I had to seal them with some silicone in order for them to be waterproof. Also remember to seal the two left-over holes in the high beam side.


Step 5 - Wiring


Take your relay harness with the control unit on (the large wire network with a H11 plug).


You can chose to disassemble your low beam plug or the plug on your relay harness. I chose the harness as I could then have the plugs connected inside the headlight housing for a cleaner look.

Take the H11 female plug on your relay harness and push the small locking-tap beside the pin to the side. While doing that take a flat plier and push the pin backwards into the plug housing. It takes a little technique but is not hard at all.
Push the small wires though the rubber sealant



Assemble the plug again on the other side


The H11 plug going therough the rubber sealant is now connected to the low beam male inside the headlight housing (right hand side, driving direction). It is the wire with the yellow/brown wires.
Now you're done with the low beam and you can put the cap back on the housing.

Mount the headlight unit on nose and put the plugs in the parking lights and the main cable in the unit.

Connect the AMP connector cables (the wires with the little square half way) to the cables comming off you headlight unit (the bulps). When connected pull the cords directly outwards over the air vents and around the stay so the wire and the square thingy is dangling over the side.
Place the square beneat the dent in the stay and strip the wire aroung the thinnest part of the front. Drag the wire down the top of the airvent and let it go around the back side were the vent is ducking in under the frame. Secure it with another strip.

Take the ballasts and mount them upside down un the underside of the airvent with the plugs facing the rear of the bike, this to secure water is not forced in the opening by the air pressure. REMEMBER to check if they are turned the right way downside as you want to be able to un-connect the plugs to the ballast again and you cannot do that if the lock pins are facing the wrong way.
Ballast and AMP connector marked with green arrows. Right and left side is the same

(Only for the right side (driving direction): Surplus wire from the relay harness is marked by a light blue arrow but wait until last to secure this with strips)

In the end you can attach the control unit of the relay harness to the frame. There are just room at the top of the frame behind the right hand side fork leg.
Secure the unit with a strip on the wire on each side and a strip around the body. Remember to secure the control unit with a strip at the top preventing it from falling "out" into the area where the fork leg is moving. It will prevent you from getting full range of motion.
There should be 0.5-1.0 cm fromt the unit to the fork leg with the handle bars turned all the way to the right.

Yellow wires marking right and left side ballast, light blue wire marking excess wire from the Batter (+) connection on the relay harness and the green arrow mark the cable connecting to the low beam in the headlight unit.


When all wire are secured so nothing is loose with the risk of damage, you are ready to dial in your lenses
You light should not blind any oncomming traffic, so aim for a downward beam of 1% or done by measuring a drop at 10cm over 10m.
You can adjust by turning any three (each side) of the bolts on the backside of the headlight unit.
Find a dark place like a underground parking facility or another place with a level ground.

It is much easier to do having a friend assist you, as you need to do the adjustment with you full body weight on the bike, not supporting with your feet.

When lenses are adjusted to fit your legilation you're ready to go.
Congrats, you've done it

:D
 
Nice write up, time for a stupid question. I already have HID's they will they work with the new lens?
 
Looks like 12 and 9. Two on each side ( 4 total) one goes outer one goes inner on each side.
Crap, pulled all things apart but it's not those.

I suspect them to be from something leftover in the headlight housing but I can't figure out what. Bike hasn't come apart while riding so hopefully nothing serious.

I still nags my quite a bit :confused:
 
Hey guys I've been following the forum for years as an active reader but this is my first post.
I finally decided to retrofit HID's on my bike.
I took the headlights apart ,installed the carbon brackets (thanks to Jasper, awesome guy always helpful and patient about anything I've asked so far.)
But soon as I started the wiring I got confused already.
The cables that I have got from the kit
seem different from those on the pictures.
There's two cables that I'm not sure of where they're going.
First it's the splitter (mine is one at the bottom side with a female plug black/black and blue/red
And it's splits in black/red and black/blue.
Is this the right one?
I've ordered exactly how it was posted in the forum and every part is from the Retrofitsource.
Then I have the double harness, there's labels on the ends marked with where the plugs should be connected to the balast and also where the ends towards the battery +/- supposed to be.
The remained plug with blue and white wires is going into the low beam from what I've understood so far.
But I've a cable left wich is male on the bottom and splits into black and red but without a plug at the end.
Just black red wires with metal connectors for each one.
Do I missing any parts?
Any suggestions?
 
I had a few wires and connectors left over as well, I guess they are just bundled from the factory to fit multiple bikes. Could you walk through what you have already connected. Step by step.


EDIT: Looking at my post 249 on page 17 I can see that I have similar wires. They are definitely leftovers.
 
Discussion starter · #318 ·
I had a few wires and connectors left over as well, I guess they are just bundled from the factory to fit multiple bikes. Could you walk through what you have already connected. Step by step.


EDIT: Looking at my post 249 on page 17 I can see that I have similar wires. They are definitely leftovers.
I agree with CPH - there may certainly be leftover wires when you order kits from stores designed to fit a variety of different bikes. By all means take a picture of everything connected and laid out so I can confirm for you (here or pm)

Don't be overwhelmed by the wires at all. The theory is extremely simple.

Power to ballast > Ballast to light bulb > returning "ground wire".

From TRS, everything above should be plug and play. That is, everything should work once you plug it all in.

However, if you did that, the low beam would only light up on one side of the headlight. When you press the high beam button, the low beam lights would go out and the high beam flappers inside your new projector on the high beam side would activate....

That is why you need a little rewiring. The kit should remedy that according to other members who bought it here or all you need to do is just solder a few wires together to change that up.


Rewiring the wires happen inside the Ducati headlight housing. The re-routing of wires serve to provide power for low beam on BOTH sides, power for high beam (flappers) on BOTH sides

In order to provide power as above, there must always be a positive wire and a negative wire.

That is basically all there is to the theory and it is quite simple once you try to follow how the wires travel from the original Ducati headlight harness into the headlight and back out!
 
I agree with CPH - there may certainly be leftover wires when you order kits from stores designed to fit a variety of different bikes. By all means take a picture of everything connected and laid out so I can confirm for you (here or pm)

Don't be overwhelmed by the wires at all. The theory is extremely simple.

Power to ballast > Ballast to light bulb > returning "ground wire".

From TRS, everything above should be plug and play. That is, everything should work once you plug it all in.

However, if you did that, the low beam would only light up on one side of the headlight. When you press the high beam button, the low beam lights would go out and the high beam flappers inside your new projector on the high beam side would activate....

That is why you need a little rewiring. The kit should remedy that according to other members who bought it here or all you need to do is just solder a few wires together to change that up.


Rewiring the wires happen inside the Ducati headlight housing. The re-routing of wires serve to provide power for low beam on BOTH sides, power for high beam (flappers) on BOTH sides

In order to provide power as above, there must always be a positive wire and a negative wire.

That is basically all there is to the theory and it is quite simple once you try to follow how the wires travel from the original Ducati headlight harness into the headlight and back out!
Exactly, if bought like posted before. The TRS kit come as a dual high/low set now. It is all plug'n'play. The only thing you have to alter is disassemble two of the plugs to route the through the rubber seals that goes into the backside of the headlight housing caps.
 
Hello all!
My complete TRS kit was delivered yesterday (Tuesday), so only waiting for the CF brackets to arrive, and I'll be having a go at this. I'll try and take lots of pics during the process...

*** EDIT ***
... and my brackets arrived yesterday (Wednesday)! Looks like I have my weekend sorted...
 
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