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Discussion Starter #1
Hello folks

My bike does not start. At first I thought the battery might be dead since I wasn't able to start it during winter. I took the battery out and used an industrial charger to recharge it. After a few hours of charging it the bike started perfectly. I let it run for a good 10 min or so, then I turned it off to put the fairings back but after that I could not start it again. So I thought coldness of weather might have caused that problem. A few days later when it got a little warmer I tried it again but everything was the same. The battery shows about 11.9-12.4 V which I think should be around 14 (correct me if I'm wrong). Anyways, I thought the battery is dead so I bought a new battery and had it charged in IndyDucati for a day and it showed 12.6 the moment I turned the ignition on. But that didn't help as well. I still can't get it started.
So, what might be causing this problem?
And I need to mention that the start works and everything was fine before winter.
 

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sounds like it could be a bad regulator. there was a recall for this item on the 1098. they added a heat shield to the unit i think.
 

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sounds like it could be a bad regulator. there was a recall for this item on the 1098. they added a heat shield to the unit i think.
I'm the third owner of the bike, and I bought it last year in August. So, I don't know if they added that heat shield. How to know if they did?
And if not, what do you suggest me to do?
 

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Start by taking left side fairings off. The heat shield is below and on the backside of the battery box. If its not there start with the recall. You can also get to the regulator. It's under the battery box. Dismantle it and look for any obvious heat damage. Usually deformation is a good indicator the regular is bad. Order a new one and see what happens. If none of the above then dealer might be your next option.
 

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Sep,

First; there is a recall for the VR, so if that is the or isn't the problem, take your bike to a dealer and have them complete the recall.

Second; do yourself and your bike a favor and and replace the OEM Batt cables( hot to Start Solenoid, Negative, and Solenoid to Starter) with Hi Cap terminals. You can buy the Kit for 100$ or you can have your favorite auto parts store build you a set for around 30$. Either way, your 1098 will start right up with NO lag.

Third; your Batt voltage needs to be above 13v for a good start.
 

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13+Volts. You have to power the ECU, the injectors, AND turn the starter against a high compression Vtwin.

You can call the dealership and have them check the VIN# to see if the recall is completed. That will be in the records. It doesn't matter if you are owner #1 or owner #20, they will perform a recall for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Sep,

First; there is a recall for the VR, so if that is the or isn't the problem, take your bike to a dealer and have them complete the recall.

Second; do yourself and your bike a favor and and replace the OEM Batt cables( hot to Start Solenoid, Negative, and Solenoid to Starter) with Hi Cap terminals. You can buy the Kit for 100$ or you can have your favorite auto parts store build you a set for around 30$. Either way, your 1098 will start right up with NO lag.

Third; your Batt voltage needs to be above 13v for a good start.
I know it might sound stupid but I have always had this question that how can a 12V battery hold 13V or this guy's bike shows 14.4 (
) (that's not my case tho, mine starts but start can't get the engine running)
So, I have a motorcycle battery charger (from Walmart) and it is a 12V battery charger, how can I have it to get my battery charged more that 13 volts?
 

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a single cell in a lead acid batt in your bike will hold about 2.2v when new, x 6 gives you 13.2v
That is an unloaded voltage which will fall back into the low 12's when you crank. If your batt were at 12v when unloaded it would struggle to output 11-11.5 when loaded and your bike would struggle to start.

The charging voltage and current applied when the bike is running is about getting your batt back to max voltage as quick as poss ready for the next crank without compromising the battery. If you had a 12v 14AH batt in your bike and you charged it at 12v at 1 amp it would take 14 hours to charge from flat. clearly that is not going to cut it on a bike or car unless you like waiting. So you either increase the volts and/or current to accelerate the process. most intelligent charging circuits do both and as the batt volts come up the amps go down.

If you have a charger that is for a 12v battery it does no mean the charger will only output 12v so i doubt your walmart charger is a problem.

The voltage you see on the Dash with the bike running is the voltage being applied to the battery by the charging circuit, not the voltage the battery itself is holding.
 

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Ive used jumper leads from my car to start mine before heading off for a ride in the past. Charged up fine while riding. You can do that without taking the fairing off and only removing a couple of panel screws.

Charge doesnt have to be down much for it not to start, but always comes back up quickly after a good ride. One time it started fine, I warmed the bike up and headed off up the road to fuel up and then it wouldnt start once I'd fuelled up. Had to get Mrs Soz to bring jumper leads around to get it going. 30 mins of riding later it was fine again until I left it for another month or so without starting it. Ride often, or hook a battery tender up when you're not using it.

Your problem sounds more than just the battery though.
 

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Just remember that any time a lead-acid battery gets below about a 30-35% charge she's done. She will never hold a complete charge and her rate of decay will be just about exponential. It's a character of the battery. You can overcharge them (somewhat like emergency exit lights, etc.) but you can't let them run down.
 
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