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Discussion Starter #21
Well fuck me I use anti gravity.... Lol. Let's hope that doesn't happen to me.


bite the bullet and trash it. my battery melted bc the material in the cell was so thin it just failed. and like I said the battery was only 18 months old. you can go on youtube and look at all the videos of peoples batteries blowing up. insane.
 

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Sorry for ur bike mate..
According to my meca, this is a regulator issue..
Last week, I went for a "boiling" issue in the water cooling system and they discovered that the regulator was heating and burning the wires all around.
Typical issue for a bike of this age with an "old" battery, he said..
They replaced the regulator and the melted wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Sorry for ur bike mate..
According to my meca, this is a regulator issue..
Last week, I went for a "boiling" issue in the water cooling system and they discovered that the regulator was heating and burning the wires all around.
Typical issue for a bike of this age with an "old" battery, he said..
They replaced the regulator and the melted wires.
Yeah, I’m probly going to replace the regulator just to be safe. I truly think the battery is what failed but who knows.
 

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bite the bullet and trash it. my battery melted bc the material in the cell was so thin it just failed. and like I said the battery was only 18 months old. you can go on youtube and look at all the videos of peoples batteries blowing up. insane.
Did you contact antigravity at all and inform them.

You think the old antigravity batteries are different from the new ReCharge batteries they make?
 

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Yeah, I’m probly going to replace the regulator just to be safe. I truly think the battery is what failed but who knows.

It's a combination of parts. Using an old voltage regulator with a lithium battery. Most of the times the voltage regulator is the culprit, which results in the battery going *whoosh* and most likely your stator being fried as well.

Lessons learned the hard way.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
It's a combination of parts. Using an old voltage regulator with a lithium battery. Most of the times the voltage regulator is the culprit, which results in the battery going *whoosh* and most likely your stator being fried as well.

Lessons learned the hard way.

Good luck.
Thankfully that stator is fine. I had the bike running yesterday with a nice new battery. Probly just gonna replace the regulator for some warm and fuzzies
 

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Guys:
The voltage regulators get too hot, causing uncontrolled charging at the battery. The LI batteries cannot take it so they catch on fire. Very simple.
The fix is a few things - do a layer of 1.5" wide glass cloth wrap at the front cylinder header. Not all the way up to the head. Start about an inch or so away. Wrap it 8 to 10" down the pipe. Use radiator hose clamps to keep in place. Can order online.
Second item is get a sheet of glass cloth with sticky backing and aluminized front facing. Cover the outside of the battery box with it. I did 2 layers. Bought a sheet at the auto parts store. Once done, put in the NEW regulator. And by the way, once you run the bike for a while, check the interior faces of the lower bodywork for light brown discoloration. This is due to you now driving the heat rearward further down the header, so this area is now hotter. Fix there is clean the interior panel well and apply some of that aluminized glass cloth along that area as well.
You are welcome !
 

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My questions is, what do you guys thinkis better todo;

reprair and sell as salvage or part?

it will be getting bought back from the insurance company.
My bike was totaled for a bent rearset tab. Got 8500 for it bought it back for 1500. Took the money and build another one from scratch, and bent the tab back on the other. Ended up with two bikes.

The damage looks bad but honestly once you tear it apart, all you probably need to actually replace is the wire harness, some electrical components and anything plastic that melted I bet the frame / metal parts are fine other than paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
My bike was totaled for a bent rearset tab. Got 8500 for it bought it back for 1500. Took the money and build another one from scratch, and bent the tab back on the other. Ended up with two bikes.

The damage looks bad but honestly once you tear it apart, all you probably need to actually replace is the wire harness, some electrical components and anything plastic that melted I bet the frame / metal parts are fine other than paint.
Yeah I bought it back and the damage wasn’t even that bad.
 

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salvaged bikes lose 40% of the book value (in your case, lowest estimate due to fire)

Li batts in theory would require a Li-specific rectifier and Li-specific charger to work properly
 

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Discussion Starter #31
salvaged bikes lose 40% of the book value (in your case, lowest estimate due to fire)

Li batts in theory would require a Li-specific rectifier and Li-specific charger to work properly


that's why its priced 50 percent below blue book.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I'm definitely worried about my RR now. Is the Shindengen FH020AA mosfet compatible with lithium batteries?
Should probly google that.


On a good note replaced all the damaged parts. Battery. Battery box. Voltage regulator and traction control unit. And it runs amamzing


And then I sold it. Purchased back for 2500. 300 in parts and sold for 6500 bucks.

Horray.
 

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salvaged bikes lose 40% of the book value (in your case, lowest estimate due to fire)

Li batts in theory would require a Li-specific rectifier and Li-specific charger to work properly

What makes a rectifier lithium specific and could you provide an example of one that currently is available?

From my knoweledge, the new panigale V4S (as well as the previous Panigale SL) comes equipped with a lithium battery but is using the standard FH020 voltage regulator found on all other non-lithium V4 models as well as previous generation Panigales. I could be wrong though
 

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Guys:
The voltage regulators get too hot, causing uncontrolled charging at the battery. The LI batteries cannot take it so they catch on fire. Very simple.
The fix is a few things - do a layer of 1.5" wide glass cloth wrap at the front cylinder header. Not all the way up to the head. Start about an inch or so away. Wrap it 8 to 10" down the pipe. Use radiator hose clamps to keep in place. Can order online.
Second item is get a sheet of glass cloth with sticky backing and aluminized front facing. Cover the outside of the battery box with it. I did 2 layers. Bought a sheet at the auto parts store. Once done, put in the NEW regulator. And by the way, once you run the bike for a while, check the interior faces of the lower bodywork for light brown discoloration. This is due to you now driving the heat rearward further down the header, so this area is now hotter. Fix there is clean the interior panel well and apply some of that aluminized glass cloth along that area as well.
You are welcome !
Its in fact a very good idea to insulate the area and reduce overall temperature to the battery, wires, and regulator.

At the same time, however, insulation would not serve a purpose if the problem was a failing voltage regulator, which is a known issue for the OEM regulator found on 1x98/848 models and further exacerbated by location, poor connectors, and oil wick issue. A better solution would be to upgrade the regulator with a more robust model such as the FH020 or SH847 that has a much lower failure rate.

Reason being, A faulty voltage regulator, even if the surrounding area is insulated well, may lead to overcharging and destruction of the battery. For a lead acid, it would be less detrimental. For a lithium, a fiery disaster would be a highly likely outcome as seen here, regardless of the brand of battery. Although I would argue some lithium batteries are made better than others, the fact remains that lithium can not be overcharged as excessive heat will be generated.
 

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I ABSOLUTELY agree with all VJ020 said. Adding the insulation stuff is just to assist the VR as it needs to freely be able to dump heat.
 
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