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Discussion Starter #1
Since we don't have a 695 forum I popped it in here.

Just got a 695 but it has been lowered by an inch by the previous owner. Damn midgets.

And yes, plan on getting put back to rights but until then is there a replacement stand/adjustment I can do so i can park the bloody thing without it toppling over.

Can't always find an accommodating slope to park on.

Thanks
 

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Since we don't have a 695 forum I popped it in here.

Just got a 695 but it has been lowered by an inch by the previous owner. Damn midgets.

And yes, plan on getting put back to rights but until then is there a replacement stand/adjustment I can do so i can park the bloody thing without it toppling over.

Can't always find an accommodating slope to park on.

Thanks
Mate, why would you bother spending money on a different side stand when you are returning it to standard, makes no sense?

Craig
 

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Just get a used ebay stand and cut it 3/4" for now (or the existing one if it is in worse shape), it will be cheaper than getting a new shorter stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
"Mate, why would you bother spending money on a different side stand when you are returning it to standard, makes no sense?"


A good point Craig. I'm not getting it raised for a bit. Just blew through a couple of grand on sorting 2 bikes. Looking for a cheap and quick solution.
 

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You can also drill into the end of it and tap a hole to bolt a large fender washer on it as a plate so it doesn't sink into a hot asphalt parking lot. Or if you have a tig/mig welding set up, just weld a new plate. Just do not use a TIG welder on a part on a vehicle, remove the part to be welded. TIG uses AC current and can fry any control unit on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You can also drill into the end of it and tap a hole to bolt a large fender washer on it as a plate so it doesn't sink into a hot asphalt parking lot. Or if you have a tig/mig welding set up, just weld a new plate. Just do not use a TIG welder on a part on a vehicle, remove the part to be welded. TIG uses AC current and can fry any control unit on the bike.
Thanks Rusty but the bike tends to fall the otherway, to the right. Kick stand too long for the lowered frame.
 

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No, once you cut the stand it will have a very narrow footprint. The last suggestions were for after you cut it down so you don't have a stiletto heal holding up the bike on soft surfaces. Pointy heels on strippers good- pointy stand on bike bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, once you cut the stand it will have a very narrow footprint. The last suggestions were for after you cut it down so you don't have a stiletto heal holding up the bike on soft surfaces. Pointy heels on strippers good- pointy stand on bike bad.
Ah, thanks for the suggestions and clarification. Much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How hard is it to remove the lowering link kit yourself, it's only two bolts isn't it?

Craig
Not hard. The front end is doable I guess as everything is easy to get at.

For the back I need to replace the dog bone. Harder to access, and since I don't have a wheel lift or even a stable place to work, pretty much not so doable.
 

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Can you lift the rear end up by hanging it securely from garage rafters or similiar with rope or tie down straps?

You will be able to work on it without fear of it falling over.

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Can you lift the rear end up by hanging it securely from garage rafters or similiar with rope or tie down straps?

You will be able to work on it without fear of it falling over.

Craig
I would if I could. No garage, not even a drive way :mad:

Working on getting some bike stands but not found the right ones yet.
 
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