[BingBuilds]

I have a 2010 Ducati 848 evo it was a crash bike that I am trying to restore I am 90% done and I noticed that the left turn signal is not working when I press the switch left the instrument cluster blinks fast but the lights themselves do not come on when I go to the pin on instrument cluster for the left turn signal and give it power both the lights come on when I go to the back of the bike and test the connector I have no power at the light for the turn signal anyone have any fixes for this?

 

[BOTT]

The walk goes like this:
1. Bulb check first thing. Even if you have to take a jumper off the battery and tag the bulb itself.

2. Winker body. That means to ohm the bulb base insert tab or touch point. That would be connector pin to bulb base pin or tab. Followed by the ground side for the bulb so that would be base tab out to connector pin. Say it only has the one base tab in the middle of the bulb base. That means the winker body is the ground.

3. This would be to match the working side. Meaning, disconnect the working side of say what you found out of the cluster or out at the main harness connect to the winker connector.
a. Crash bikes sort of pinch/cut at the neck of the front end area of the main wire harness.
b. So that says if I match both right and left [tests] out of the cluster, it's not the cluster.
c. If I reconnect the cluster back so right and left works, then that's the next round of wires from out of the cluster connector.
d. That means, I know the right side shows a full loop connect, is all connectors back connected. Then I take the bulb out of the [right ]winker housing, prong the tab(+), and the ground meter (-)prong to a good ground on the bike, switch to the right and the meter should show 12v on the meter's volts scale set at 20v.

4. Therefore, I tested the cluster showing both sides match. I tested the winker body and shows good ground. I tested for an OPEN at every sub-harness groups from winker connector, to main harness loop to cluster.

5. The components like a winker relay; could be tapped with a screwdriver handle and try to trigger the arm to flash.
a. The winker body having a single filament, uses the base to be the ground. This would be to use a bare handle pliers and simply spread them to touch the winker body to a good ground on the frame.

Electrical Trouble Tree:
1. Connector out of connector.
2. Wire out of the connector.
3. Short, Open, Signal out of range;
a. Where a short is direct (+) to ground and keeps blowing fuses.
b. Open would be a crash-pinch at the main wire harness, or [look for] a wire on its own that work hardens and cracks the strands in half caused from vibration.
c. Where sensors are built with a fixed resistance range. It stops sending that fixed input, breaks out of that resistance number; and sets a code at the dash cluster.

 

[BingBuilds]

The walk goes like this:
1. Bulb check first thing. Even if you have to take a jumper off the battery and tag the bulb itself.

2. Winker body. That means to ohm the bulb base insert tab or touch point. That would be connector pin to bulb base pin or tab. Followed by the ground side for the bulb so that would be base tab out to connector pin. Say it only has the one base tab in the middle of the bulb base. That means the winker body is the ground.

3. This would be to match the working side. Meaning, disconnect the working side of say what you found out of the cluster or out at the main harness connect to the winker connector.
a. Crash bikes sort of pinch/cut at the neck of the front end area of the main wire harness.
b. So that says if I match both right and left [tests] out of the cluster, it's not the cluster.
c. If I reconnect the cluster back so right and left works, then that's the next round of wires from out of the cluster connector.
d. That means, I know the right side shows a full loop connect, is all connectors back connected. Then I take the bulb out of the [right ]winker housing, prong the tab(+), and the ground meter (-)prong to a good ground on the bike, switch to the right and the meter should show 12v on the meter's volts scale set at 20v.

4. Therefore, I tested the cluster showing both sides match. I tested the winker body and shows good ground. I tested for an OPEN at every sub-harness groups from winker connector, to main harness loop to cluster.

5. The components like a winker relay; could be tapped with a screwdriver handle and try to trigger the arm to flash.
a. The winker body having a single filament, uses the base to be the ground. This would be to use a bare handle pliers and simply spread them to touch the winker body to a good ground on the frame.

Electrical Trouble Tree:
1. Connector out of connector.
2. Wire out of the connector.
3. Short, Open, Signal out of range;
a. Where a short is direct (+) to ground and keeps blowing fuses.
b. Open would be a crash-pinch at the main wire harness, or [look for] a wire on its own that work hardens and cracks the strands in half caused from vibration.
c. Where sensors are built with a fixed resistance range. It stops sending that fixed input, breaks out of that resistance number; and sets a code at the dash cluster.

I have the

The walk goes like this:
1. Bulb check first thing. Even if you have to take a jumper off the battery and tag the bulb itself.

2. Winker body. That means to ohm the bulb base insert tab or touch point. That would be connector pin to bulb base pin or tab. Followed by the ground side for the bulb so that would be base tab out to connector pin. Say it only has the one base tab in the middle of the bulb base. That means the winker body is the ground.

3. This would be to match the working side. Meaning, disconnect the working side of say what you found out of the cluster or out at the main harness connect to the winker connector.
a. Crash bikes sort of pinch/cut at the neck of the front end area of the main wire harness.
b. So that says if I match both right and left [tests] out of the cluster, it's not the cluster.
c. If I reconnect the cluster back so right and left works, then that's the next round of wires from out of the cluster connector.
d. That means, I know the right side shows a full loop connect, is all connectors back connected. Then I take the bulb out of the [right ]winker housing, prong the tab(+), and the ground meter (-)prong to a good ground on the bike, switch to the right and the meter should show 12v on the meter's volts scale set at 20v.

4. Therefore, I tested the cluster showing both sides match. I tested the winker body and shows good ground. I tested for an OPEN at every sub-harness groups from winker connector, to main harness loop to cluster.

5. The components like a winker relay; could be tapped with a screwdriver handle and try to trigger the arm to flash.
a. The winker body having a single filament, uses the base to be the ground. This would be to use a bare handle pliers and simply spread them to touch the winker body to a good ground on the frame.

Electrical Trouble Tree:
1. Connector out of connector.
2. Wire out of the connector.
3. Short, Open, Signal out of range;
a. Where a short is direct (+) to ground and keeps blowing fuses.
b. Open would be a crash-pinch at the main wire harness, or [look for] a wire on its own that work hardens and cracks the strands in half caused from vibration.
c. Where sensors are built with a fixed resistance range. It stops sending that fixed input, breaks out of that resistance number; and sets a code at the dash cluster.

Appreciate the reply. I have the TST tail light with the integrated turn signals so I don’t have bulbs on the bike

 

[BOTT]

Does not matter the bulb. It still means the wire ends [used] and the integrity of the pin ends clamped at each connection point, then the pin to pin making the connection.