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I worked in automotive for years and can second the comments of many from here. After experience you can feel the point at which most fasteners have a significant increase in resistance and most times that is right at the torque spec. For torque to yield hardware a torque wrench is ALWAYS used. safety critical hardware is also a must for the torque wrench. Any sealing surfaces are also important to torque as they can become warped from over torqueing and create a permanent leak. With experience comes an understanding of the feel of different torques and the optimum torques based upon hardware size and material. Many times I torque by hand and recheck with a torque wrench if it is non critical. Again, this comes with an active interest in improving ones skill with experience; nit just years on the job. I had known many techs with years of experience and not a single day of actually doing their job with any skill, simply because they don't care. There are many shop jokes about listening for the click in the elbow, the German method (goodandtight) and the American standard (Armstrong), or customer induced failure (loose nut behind the wheel). But a professional keeps these jokes in the shop especially when talking with a concerned client.

If you are not comfortable with your tech, find one that you will be. it is your money and your life.
 

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Torque wrenches should be stored at their lowest setting to retain accuracy.

Sometimes shit comes loose on vibrating motorcycles- that's why they made blue and red Loctite (be sure to use the appropriate one)

Sealing surfaces are damaged from over torque, then leak...

Understanding torque helps too- typo's happed and that 50NM on the 4x1.0 allen was probably supposed to be 5NM.
 
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