More problems on 1098 - Concluded?! hell no
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How quickly is it turning over? What happens when you have the delayed starter? Do you hear a soft click noise? I suspect the starter solenoid may be a part of the problem...
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Its turns over normally,you can hear some put-put out the cans like its about to start but it doesn't.
Got new plugs coming then if it doesn't work I`ll re-test the coils and injectors....dman thing is ruining my summer...again.
And no,no sounds at all,just push the button and nothing happened for half a second or so; today it worked kinda ok but not instant like it supposed to. New battery btw.Got a spare solenoid if need be...starting to have a whole collection of spares for the heap of metal
Got new plugs coming then if it doesn't work I`ll re-test the coils and injectors....dman thing is ruining my summer...again.
And no,no sounds at all,just push the button and nothing happened for half a second or so; today it worked kinda ok but not instant like it supposed to. New battery btw.Got a spare solenoid if need be...starting to have a whole collection of spares for the heap of metal
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Martin, when was the last time you had a look at the stator/regulator-rectifier connector? I just hard-wired my 09' 848 due to a 'fried' connector.
Initally, I had the same symptom as you: Push start button and nothing! It was very random... Then it progressed to headlights and dash turning off randomly as well... After my hard-wire fix, I've had no problems.
I'm working on a video that will show how to complete this repair...
Initally, I had the same symptom as you: Push start button and nothing! It was very random... Then it progressed to headlights and dash turning off randomly as well... After my hard-wire fix, I've had no problems.
I'm working on a video that will show how to complete this repair...
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All the system is brand new; I just finished re-checking stuff and I got spark on both and fuel on both...but somehow the front plug is black while the back one is just wet...I even electrocuted myself a bit testing the vertical cylinder coil (the one with the wet plug); if doesn't come to a conclusion fast I`ll be in for a new starter clutch as well
So the fuel pump is priming each time you turn the key on? I had the same issue with my '12 848 EVO, it would turn over but would not start. Turned out to be my fuel pump relay next to the battery box. I replaced all 3 relays by the battery just to play it safe, so they are all new.
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Yes it does and all relays are new ..the priming sound is loud and clear;
Might be worth a shot to mention that when it does start it runs rough and you have to sliiiightly keep pressure on the throttle tube to keep it idling and if I can hold it there and make it reach op temp (40C) it then slowly dies like you emptied the bowls on a carbureted bike
Might be worth a shot to mention that when it does start it runs rough and you have to sliiiightly keep pressure on the throttle tube to keep it idling and if I can hold it there and make it reach op temp (40C) it then slowly dies like you emptied the bowls on a carbureted bike
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It appears that even if I remove the vertical plug,insert it in the coil,ground it and get a spark that if I put it back in the head it wont spark the mixture; just changed the plugs, managed to start the engine for a minute (running rough--1 cyl) checked the plugs after and I could see some colors on the front but just raw fuel on the rear
jaywahr, wish it`d be that easy,TPS is new and is within specs and right on the money for adjustment
The bike ran when I got it back from the shop (for a couple days) but got progressively worst, smelled a lot like fuel-gagging lvl smell- and needed the throttle to be twisted to start; I since changed the battery,the rectifier,coils,whole throttle plate and components, crank sensor (that one threw error codes) plugs, fuel pump assembly
something cuts the power to the vertical plug
jaywahr, wish it`d be that easy,TPS is new and is within specs and right on the money for adjustment
The bike ran when I got it back from the shop (for a couple days) but got progressively worst, smelled a lot like fuel-gagging lvl smell- and needed the throttle to be twisted to start; I since changed the battery,the rectifier,coils,whole throttle plate and components, crank sensor (that one threw error codes) plugs, fuel pump assembly
something cuts the power to the vertical plug
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41 Posts
I was recently going through this similar issue on my recently purchased low mileage 1098s. Rough idle, would stall when engine was warmed up, exhaust was soooo hot my nuts would be roasted at the end of a ride, I also found it difficult to find the clutch point and it would always look and sound like I was still learning to get off the mark in 1st gear.
I resolved my issue as follows.
Rough idle, stalling - grabbed myself JPDiag software and updated the ecu with 96518507B map (known issue with '07 stalling with original map 96518607B) Ducati Aus resolved it with the update ECU software which I obtain via JPDiag writer software. Ran much better on idle, however still would stall, although less often.
Stalling, clutch - finally resolved this with a number of issues found. Resetting the TPS with JPDiag wasnt sorting the issue. I then found the throttle cable was sticking a little and discovered that the lock nut adjusters were damn loose. Readjusted the throttle and it was like night and day. No more stalling and clutch point was perfect.
Stalling - it started to stall on me again a week later and then the fuel cap started to pop... WTF, I found that the venting tubes were blocked which would have created counter pressures for to fuel injection pump (Unable to fill with air when pumping and expanding when not riding. It was odd though, as it was popping while I was riding. Anyhow, Cleaned them out, now happy days....
I resolved my issue as follows.
Rough idle, stalling - grabbed myself JPDiag software and updated the ecu with 96518507B map (known issue with '07 stalling with original map 96518607B) Ducati Aus resolved it with the update ECU software which I obtain via JPDiag writer software. Ran much better on idle, however still would stall, although less often.
Stalling, clutch - finally resolved this with a number of issues found. Resetting the TPS with JPDiag wasnt sorting the issue. I then found the throttle cable was sticking a little and discovered that the lock nut adjusters were damn loose. Readjusted the throttle and it was like night and day. No more stalling and clutch point was perfect.
Stalling - it started to stall on me again a week later and then the fuel cap started to pop... WTF, I found that the venting tubes were blocked which would have created counter pressures for to fuel injection pump (Unable to fill with air when pumping and expanding when not riding. It was odd though, as it was popping while I was riding. Anyhow, Cleaned them out, now happy days....
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PS, who, when was the timing belt done?
My last resolution is to double check the timing belt as it feels like the timing is a little retarded. When i changed the belt I didn't have the tool to hold the cams and when you tighten the tensioner pulley, the cam gears move with the belt. I'm fairly sure this also played or is playing a part in my running issues.
Once the cam holder tool arrives, I'll be redoing the belts properly. That is, backing off the nuts that hold the cam sprockets on the cam shafts, wile the shafts are held in place. Tighten belt, cam sprockets will move a little, but cam is held at the correct timing. Then retighten sprockets once belt is tensioned.
My last resolution is to double check the timing belt as it feels like the timing is a little retarded. When i changed the belt I didn't have the tool to hold the cams and when you tighten the tensioner pulley, the cam gears move with the belt. I'm fairly sure this also played or is playing a part in my running issues.
Once the cam holder tool arrives, I'll be redoing the belts properly. That is, backing off the nuts that hold the cam sprockets on the cam shafts, wile the shafts are held in place. Tighten belt, cam sprockets will move a little, but cam is held at the correct timing. Then retighten sprockets once belt is tensioned.
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Lastly, yeah. My crank sensor was throwing error codes too. Replaced with new and all good when I did the throttle cable adjustment.
This is all just arm chair mechanicing too. Hopefully we arent sending you down the garden path on wild goose chases.
The way you check for spark seems good to me (I would have done the same) so I believe your getting spark. My 2 cents worth is that you may have skipped a tooth on the timing belt. If you haven't already determined which cyclinder isnt working. (sounds like you have) Remove the coil from one and turn over, then same with the other cylinder. Which ever cylinder has coil on and you dont get ignition (but theres spark) check the timing for that cylinder.
This is all just arm chair mechanicing too. Hopefully we arent sending you down the garden path on wild goose chases.
The way you check for spark seems good to me (I would have done the same) so I believe your getting spark. My 2 cents worth is that you may have skipped a tooth on the timing belt. If you haven't already determined which cyclinder isnt working. (sounds like you have) Remove the coil from one and turn over, then same with the other cylinder. Which ever cylinder has coil on and you dont get ignition (but theres spark) check the timing for that cylinder.
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MBP did the rings heads valves and belts; what cracks my brains is the fact that I get spark with the plug out of the engine but it wont ignite the mixture once back in; even if timing is off (the bike ran for a couple days) there is fuel in the head,wouldnt an off spark at least produce a backfire
I'm starting to think my ECU is fooked (its a full race DP for full termis); it was sent to someone in the USA to get remapped
I'm starting to think my ECU is fooked (its a full race DP for full termis); it was sent to someone in the USA to get remapped
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If you could get it hooked up to a diagnostic, it will show up any registered trouble codes. I'm assuming your dash cluster hasn't thrown up any errors here.
What does the dash read when you first turn the key? 1098 RACING? This will give an indication of the map installed. The updated ecu reads 1098 RACING EVO which came in from '08 on. My original map read the same sans the EVO. When I had a look at the fuel mapping of the original map it looked like a dogs breakfast. I was amazed it even ran.
Yes I agree that there could be some flash from the fuel, but that's dependant also on air fuel mixture. If valves aren't timed right, that ratio will be effected. No amount of good spark will ignited a flooded chamber. For combustion you need 3 elements. Heat, fuel and air and these need to be at the right ratio for ignition to occur. I guess, double check connection, test coil resistance, hey see what happens if you swap the coils. Does the problem shift to the horizontal cylinder?
Feel your pain mate, I was tearing my hair out during my diagnosis.
I'm still leaning towards checking the timing belt, which most owners can do at home.
It's not intended as a slight against whomever last changed the belts either. Shit happens through no fault of anyone, bad belt, tensioner issues, etc.
What does the dash read when you first turn the key? 1098 RACING? This will give an indication of the map installed. The updated ecu reads 1098 RACING EVO which came in from '08 on. My original map read the same sans the EVO. When I had a look at the fuel mapping of the original map it looked like a dogs breakfast. I was amazed it even ran.
Yes I agree that there could be some flash from the fuel, but that's dependant also on air fuel mixture. If valves aren't timed right, that ratio will be effected. No amount of good spark will ignited a flooded chamber. For combustion you need 3 elements. Heat, fuel and air and these need to be at the right ratio for ignition to occur. I guess, double check connection, test coil resistance, hey see what happens if you swap the coils. Does the problem shift to the horizontal cylinder?
Feel your pain mate, I was tearing my hair out during my diagnosis.
I'm still leaning towards checking the timing belt, which most owners can do at home.
It's not intended as a slight against whomever last changed the belts either. Shit happens through no fault of anyone, bad belt, tensioner issues, etc.
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41 Posts
Yep, so you should have the updated mapping with the 'EVO' on the dash and you could certainly say you have ruled out a coil issue. I would think a coil failure would also throw an error onto your dash anyway. You should be able to tell by the notches on the cam shafts. At TDC, the horizontal notch should both be level with the top of the head and the tail notch (if you think of it as an upside down T) pointing away from the cylinder.
It sounds like your hands on too, I'd take a look at the timing, not overly difficult to do. If anything to at least rule that out. But ..... my $$$ is on timing at this stage.
Are you happy that the throttle cable hasn't loosened off or in need of adjustment?
Mine were loose and there'd be just a little further movement of the butterfly to the closed position beyond what the throttle grip would close. As such, on engine start up, for some reason the TPS would lower (I suspect the air suction) and effectively give a lower idle along with the damn stalling issue. Just a thought.
It sounds like your hands on too, I'd take a look at the timing, not overly difficult to do. If anything to at least rule that out. But ..... my $$$ is on timing at this stage.
Are you happy that the throttle cable hasn't loosened off or in need of adjustment?
Mine were loose and there'd be just a little further movement of the butterfly to the closed position beyond what the throttle grip would close. As such, on engine start up, for some reason the TPS would lower (I suspect the air suction) and effectively give a lower idle along with the damn stalling issue. Just a thought.
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Sorry mate that last post was a little disjointed and can't seem to edit it Fromm the phone. I meant to say that I would still check out your timing, if anything just to rule it out. It's fairly easy to do ... and then I go off and describe the notches inbred cam shafts.
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Don't forget the belt tension too. You should find it takes some effort to twist the belt beyond 45 degrees at its longest length, if you aren't able to test sound resonance, although you can do sound test easily with your mobile and any number of free apps.
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You know if you flick the mode button up it will give you what error codes are being indicated? If there's more than one they will scroll through.
Possible errors with standard ecu - are your lambdas connected, is your exhaust evap valve connected? These are normally removed with a full exhaust system, hence the need for the change in ecu.
Possible errors with standard ecu - are your lambdas connected, is your exhaust evap valve connected? These are normally removed with a full exhaust system, hence the need for the change in ecu.
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