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Discussion Starter · #201 ·
Quick update:

argh. I got an arthritis attack on both hands...oddly enough, both my middle fingers are compromise for now so cant even flip the bird to anyone :/

At this rate I will fix the damn thing but wont be able to ride it anymore.Oh well.

I am pretty sure my problem is from the left side of the engine, the gearings that actuate the layshaft gear or that gear specifically.

As soon as I recover my hands I`ll tackle this and keep you guys informed on my progress.

I WILL repair that beast on my own no matter the time it takes
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
Well, sourced a head from Ukraine (it glows in the dark), installed it, timed cams,slap battery on, kept an eye on the 2 oil holes for the cams (primed them with oil) and hit the starter (no plugs) and it took a couple cranks for the oil to reach the top but it poured out of the threaded bolt where you screw the covers so I figured it needs to be blocked for the oil to reach the 2 holes then.

Threw me a code T.WAT 3.1 (try searching this on duckduckgo or google, dayum!)...of course, it never ends with that thing. Just a coolant temp sensor (yet another)

Hey, just in time to store it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
well God damn....3rd head and it seized on the cam...again.

I really thought I found the plug preventing oil from reaching that specific cam but it appears this is not the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
I dont use sealant on the cover, dont need it. (never had a leak)

I am curious on how this would point to a bottom end issue, the cam seizes from apparently, lack of lubrication

Anyways, there seem to be a shortage of spare vertical heads so this project is mothballed for now (and its winter)

I plan on digging deeper next time, and wont re-assemble anything unless I find some oil galley plugged up

I was also wondering, the oil pump being mechanical cant fail can it? I would have other problems if it would be the case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
yay, me again.

Moved in the sticks so keep the "bring it to a dealer" joke for yourselves this time....there are none around. But I have a garage this time! Heated! With electricity!

OK, finally got another head....they are getting rare. Took the darn thing apart yet again and removed the head....this time around the cam (always the same darn cam btw) was barely stuck... Took only a small jab with my plastic hammer to remove it.Just a tick...but I digress.

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Took the right side engine cover off (removed whole clutch assembly)

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Now hunting for a potential sealant plug you will notice that the oil pump is removed; I got a new one but I fail to understand why a mechanical ,very simple mechanical assembly such as this oil pump would fail but heh, its gone anyways. Replaced. Dispatched.

Now the 2 oil holes related to the pump and thus the feed to the vertical head cams are the 2 with green o-rings (2 further apart, the middle one seems to be a feed)

So when I blow compressed air into the crankcase hole...

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...air comes out rushing from the 2 aforementioned holes; neither seem to have a impaired flow; when I plug the crankcase/cylinder/head oil hole you can shoot air in either bottom holes air will come out the other BUT if you plug 1 bottom hole with a finger and shoot compressed air into the other, the crankcase/cylinder/head oil feed hole has restriction (some from remaining oil trapped in there)

That is where I'm at. Air seemingly flowing freely one way but not so much the other. Bottom line is I haven't found any debris or sealant plug or anything. Tried a guitar string but this oil gallery puzzle is all sharp 90 degrees bends apparently. I would need the world`s tiniest flex drain plumber tool in the universe.

Right now my plan is taking it slow, go in every day for a compressed air session (until I get bored or the compressor need a break) and see if I can produce a plug of any type.

I also wonder if the oil pump is the culprit and I waste my time doing the rest.

As always, brainstorming welcome and I got pics this time! If any of you want specific pics now`s the time
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Plot twist: close the engine, air free-flowing from and to every orifices....removed the oil filter to replace it, you know, after engine failure always a good thing to put fresh everything....and low and behold, barely any oil in the filter...maybe a couple tea spoons at best
 

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Discussion Starter · #212 ·
Changed the oil pump assembly, there is a flow valve or somesuch in there, might be something wrong.

Anyways...I am getting the cam adjusters in a couple days after that, if the head seizes again the engine comes out and gets disassembled into tiny bits and pieces.

`nough playin, I got all factory tools and nothin can prevent me from riding (at least next year...lol)
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
just realized this freakin thread might be the most watched thread in the history of this website with the least amount of comments or answers....hilarious. participate!
 

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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
It lives again

Now...I used a big drill, turned the crank and oil was pooooooouring out the hole where there is the cam bridge.

Let the engine reach op temp and measured cam ends with a touchless infrared thermometer and 1 cam was roughly 8 degrees hotter than the other 3....oh well. Flip side is it is not the cam that usually seize, that cam kept the same temp as its other 2 siblings.

Plan: start the engine a few times and make it reach op temp then shut it down for the night then after those few times inspect the lot.
Then go for a short 2-3minutes test ride and inspect. Then a 10 mins ride. Then maybe a real test ride if everything checks out.
 

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It lives again

Now...I used a big drill, turned the crank and oil was pooooooouring out the hole where there is the cam bridge.

Let the engine reach op temp and measured cam ends with a touchless infrared thermometer and 1 cam was roughly 8 degrees hotter than the other 3....oh well. Flip side is it is not the cam that usually seize, that cam kept the same temp as its other 2 siblings.

Plan: start the engine a few times and make it reach op temp then shut it down for the night then after those few times inspect the lot.
Then go for a short 2-3minutes test ride and inspect. Then a 10 mins ride. Then maybe a real test ride if everything checks out.
have you removed oil filter to see if it has some in it now? odd that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
Day 2 testing: things are settling, all 4 cams run similar temps (horz running cooler though) oil is circulating, takes a while to go to op temp (this bike always ran cool) no leaks.

Tomorrow I`ll go for a short road test. (very short) (I dont hurry anything as I am currently passing kidney stones...haha)
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
have you removed oil filter to see if it has some in it now? odd that.
hey! Thanks for your interest....not currently a delicacy here. yeah, that was odd and yes, its all good now. I replaced the oil pump, there is a mechanical valve in there....no idea if that was part of the problem though...guess we`ll know very soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
OK, 3 static tests (just bring engine to op temp on the stand) conclusive

1 OTR test shows cams ends at the same temp as the dash shows, 3 years old fuel make the bike feel underpowered and sluggish (topped it off with $5 of primo)besides that,no issues, no leaks no weird noises.

Will do more tests on the road in the next few days, baby steps.
 

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OK, 3 static tests (just bring engine to op temp on the stand) conclusive

1 OTR test shows cams ends at the same temp as the dash shows, 3 years old fuel make the bike feel underpowered and sluggish (topped it off with $5 of primo)besides that,no issues, no leaks no weird noises.

Will do more tests on the road in the next few days, baby steps.
Fingers crossed. What a journey.
 
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