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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Tried the std ecu just now with servo and exhaust sniffer hooked-up,threw me a nice can 38 code...those components have 0km on them...nice,got nothing else to try but a jerrycan of gasoline and a match

Hooked the race ecu back on,tried a 3rd rectifier, uhhooked the servo and sniffer,no can 38,engine turns over but wont fire as usual

The bike was at MBP for over a month,there is no way ima send it back there...i`m not a cow you can milk forever
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
well,ground is good...no problems there; tried to hook-up the std ecu again, it wont take the key code (well,according to the book it does,flashes 4 times but ! light stays lit and when you cycle the key, it goes on a 30 seconds-or so- cycle--I guess asking for the proper key--), diag light (yellow "!") stays lit and can 38 remains; cant do anything via my centurion as its married to the DP ecu
 

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37.3 is the immobiliser

This you can override with your code card

38 is can(computer assisted network) line error

Check all ecu connections and the pins from the ecu and the ecu wireloom plugs.


Btw the key pairing with the ECU was incorrect you DO NOT have to pair the keys with a new ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I ordered a new wiring harness...this one has stiff wires all over it; read elsewhere that this could be the problem (some can 38.0 could only be resolved with a new harness)

oh well,see ya`ll in september for an addition to this ordeal...stay tuned.
 

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Well, error code 38 is indeed the CAN line error. The usual suspect for this error is the ground connector to the body of the ECU, loose, corroded, wire broken/fracturing along its length at some point or otherwise the ECU body isn't being grounded. A second suspect could be corrosion of grime effecting contact between the ECU pins and its respective connector. Check and clean both ECU and connector pins. Otherwise wiring harness may be fuked somewhere?

Mate, you sure are having a time of it... Not wanting to state the obvious, however for the sake of any new readers or owners researching, make sure that any electrical work is preceded by disconnecting the battery first and foremost.

As Dutchie intimated, the immobilizer function is married to the dash/instrument cluster. If the dash recognizes the key, it gives the ECU permission to fire away. If the dash is changed, keys need to be programmed to it (unless a new set came with it).
 

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Back to your initial probs, could the connector be in issue for the vertical cylinder spark plug condenser? Guess your new harness will address this if it is. Full harness would have cost you some coin... still in the end, WHEN you do get your bike up and running you'll be happy knowing the wiring harness is spot on.

While I'm here. I read mention of a 'centurion'? is this an add on or a code reader? Actually what electrical add ons do you have? I have a healtech gear indicator which would not play nice if the OEM USB data connector was hooked up.

What about your crank sensor? how old is it? Did the bike start to play up when warmed up (before it finally died)? Is it connected?

Starting to throw a lot of suggestions at you now. Pitfalls of armchair diagnosis I guess...
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Centurion is a VDST

No add-ons active; I have a scorpio alarm and a harness for a Veypor VR2 (installed after the problems though)

Crank sensor is brand new (It threw a code a few weeks ago,replaced it but same problem persist)

Prior acting-up of the bike to be honest scales up several years; while brand new out the dealer it would sporadically refuse to rev past 8k rpms, brought to dealer,no codes...refused to investigate further--that is how Monette Sports are professional-- (my guess it was the same problem I'm having now,just very intermittent) had a whole summer where it just would start well,run a bit rough and had no power (still thinking its related) but would eventually clear up and run as it was supposed to; it could replicate that problem when it was raining but not all the time

So yeah,hopeing its a harness problem from the start and changing it will give my bike back to me

Recap: I very much think this problem is the same from 2007 that just sporadically got worse and worse`; I basically changed everything in the electronic dept bar the harness and the dash through the years; when results ended up positive I think it was just sheer luck because I moved the harness in a good position

edit: I think the crank sensor code was no a real one,had that in the past, didnt changed it and it went away (got a few threads around here about my problems throughout the years)
 

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Fingers crossed. Make sure you post up a result. I'm keen to see you back on the road...

Yeah my crank sensor was throwing up an error code on a regular basis for a couple of weeks. It would simply reset again. As I was having the mentioned issues I gave in and changed it with positive results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I provided the mechanic with new belts but judging by the transfered metal particles on the intact horizontal one I have doubts this was performed; Was the head damaged,did the belt jumped a tooth,I have no idea how to check the timing...its now clear that my summer is ruined.
 
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