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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
its shredded in half...I can slide it on and off easily,badly tighten is my guess I will try to find a way to check if the timing was disturbed, I know there is something somewhere with dimples and notches that align to check that,just got to find the thread
 

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Man oh man, that's every bikers nightmare there. Still, I think you may have dodged a bullet here. You would definitely have notice valve to piston contact mate. Easy to see timing. Find TDC for horizontal, dimple on main pulley shaft should line up with mark on crankcase. Take off the valve cover to ensure its on compression stroke too (ie all valves closed). Don't bother with the dimples on the cam wheels, they're for assembling onto the cam shaft. What you look for is the cut outs on the end of the camshafts. There's 3. At TDC the opposing cutouts should be level with the top plane of the cylinder head and that third cutout pointing away from the cylinder (towards the front of the bike).

So with the Horizontal at TDC, you'll find it should be timed right (as that cylinder was firing). keep turning the engine to find TDC for the vertical (belts should be turning CCW?). It will be the next to fire, so go steady and once vertical is at TDC check the cam cutouts, again the opposing cutouts should be horizontal in the same plane as the deck of the cylinder with the third cutout pointing skywards.

As I guessed early in the thread (post #11), I reckon you're maybe 1 or 2 teeth out on either or both inlet and exhaust which is why your cylinder wasn't firing. This isn't I told you so moment, we should be confident enough in a trained mechanic to do it right. If you did it yourself, well that's a lesson learnt, to properly torque the pulleys, renew the torque nuts and to be certain, perhaps use some low strength thread lock on the tensioner pulley torque nuts.

Next step is to load your shotgun and head down to the fucktard mechanic that caused you all this joy and come to an amicable solution to make things right.
 

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There's a specific tool to hold the cams in position for horizontal TDC and at the same time the vertical cylinder at the correct position for the vertical cams when the horizontal is at TDC. This is needed because when renewing or adjusting the belt tension the cam wheels need to be loosened so they cam move with the belt as it is tightened and secured. Once the belt is down, the cam wheel is retightened to the cam so that timing is retained.

Having renewed my belts, my timing is out by about half a tooth (which is noticeable to me on performance). It runs OK, but its just not quite there on power. When I tightened the belts, I could see the cams move off TDC timing ever so slightly as the belt tension changes.

Still waiting for the tool to arrive. Have sent off an irrate email now, 2 months later with no sign of it having been shipped, grrr.
 

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Atleast you found the culprit. ;)

I have no idea how to check the timing...its now clear that my summer is ruined.
Many people on this forum can assist you with that challenge.

But you need to now if the valves haven't caused any damage, before you proceed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
The bike can start sometimes and idle but again,the main problem is the mixture in the vertical cylinder doesnt fire but I understand...the mechanic who did the belts is at the racetrack for the next 2 weeks (probably doing the rounds) But I would like to know if I can assess the problem visually beforehand, pulley marks,dots,etc
 

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Fair enough martinc, hopefully you'll get her on back on the road sooner rather than later.

PS... don't mean to state the obvious here either, but I hope that 'the bike can start sometimes' is in the past tense. Don't be starting her up with the belt in that condition ;)

Don't forget to remove the plugs and place transmission into 4th or higher gear to help with turning crank shaft. Its not much more to remove the fuel tank either, makes life a lot easier for work on the vertical cylinder and its just a couple of bolts and a connector.

Checking valve damage, pff, the work log just keeps getting bigger and bigger. If you had an inspection camera, you could through it down the spark plug hole to see if the piston crown has made contact. Otherwise, with the piston at BDC, if you can turn each camshaft with relative ease (belt removed) and no obvious (visible) valve shaft damage??? how far or certain do you want to be? I'm not looking or have heard it run, but from what you've described I think you'd be safe to say there was no contact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
The bike is halfway stripped, waiting on the harness; airbox removed and all. I took the opportunity to change the throttle cables (the return cable was defective,came apart at the adjuster and kept the throttle opened,good thing this occured while its off duty,it got stuck while I reinstalled the airbox a couple weeks ago!) among all sorts of deep/detailed maintenance a 10 yrs old bike requires...I tell you that,when its back on the road that thing will be ready to rock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
And yeah,I doubt there is valve damage as the bike started the other day with the vertical cylinder spark plug removed,no odd noises coming out; I want to check the timing myself before sending if to the mechanic because I dont really trust anyone anymore these days and I want to be able to confront the BS that is spewed to me; Like I mentioned previously,the vertical cylinder had worn rings, these were changed as well as the belt but I seriously doubt the horizontal cylinder belt has been changed with the shiney metallic deposits i see on it (will take a close-up when it stops raining) the vertical belt I suspect, has not been tensioned and that might be why it jumped the rollers
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
The metal deposits I was talking about on the horizontal belt (shiney) also,the red markings on the top of the belt are all gone where the ones on the vertical belt are all there

 

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It sure sounds like you're on the right track with the harness repair. In my previous career, I worked on a lot of CAN bus vehicles. All it takes is one poorly crimped ground point to create havoc. The serial communication is carried over only a few volts so important to have good clean connections, too.

The original idler/tensioner pulleys are black. Mine were allowing the belt to wear on the side. The new ones are silver (and not cheap...).

There was mention of a tool to assist with timing. I think that might be misunderstanding of what the holder tool does. Actual "timing" of the cams is a fairly involved process using a degree wheel to reposition the cam to the pulley. The holder allows you to tighten the pulleys after degreeing. In your case you should be able to replace the belts by following the usual method and your timing will be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Just got the new harness,hope it wont rain this weekend (working outside on it)

Pulleys are original 2007 and had no problems so far, old belts look like new

edit: cleaned the engine belt areas since
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
So far so good,2 valves slightly bent--enough to have 0 compression on the cylinder) didnt really touch the piston per se (evidently did but heh) no marks on the piston...just cleaned some carbon deposits.

I might be back on the road next weekend just in time to go ride in the dead leaves. then store it...lol

edit: looks like I grabbed the clutch quick enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
OK,I am back on the road.

The cause of all this ordeal was a bad head gasket; the oil hole wasnt punched through and the intake cam seized,hence the shredded belt and bent valves;

little knit picking left to do like I inverted the blinkers wires and throttle cable slightly tight but its basically riding like a brand new one with front wheel lifting at 6krpm on 3/4 throttle (God I missed that)
 

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Fark, what a trek to get here mate. Fantastic that it's sorted. Damn there's not much room for error with piston to valve interference. Very lucky it wasn't worse, as if bent valves weren't bad enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Sorry,late reply...

The mechanic did everything on his dime,very professional.

Did a road trip test later and go stranded 200km from home...burnt wires on rectifier.

Repaired the stator connectors,replace with another new rectifier which promptly burnt as well.

I had to replace the sprague yet again as it was making loud TAK-TAK noises and while in there,took a look at the stator....man....got a new one on order.

I also have a mild problem with the idle but I guess the adjustment screws are slightly opened on the TBs so it should be an easy fix as well.

Today I took out the starter clutch assembly and low and behold, the darn spring on the sprague is slightly stretched. Had a spare sprague so all is well.

Got a heavy duty rectifier, the heavy duty stator is incoming, new battery, new harness,new coils, new fuel pump, new this and that....next summer should be a good one. I'm even considering changing the starter (got a brand new spare) since this one is 12 yrs old now...I mean, while I have access to the stupid internal holding bolt
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
OK, sprague assembly is in perfect condition,not even a mark anywhere on the disc, gear or anything...sprague looks brand new too,its just the spring that gave up the ghost. already fixed and installed.

New stator on the way...bonus: what do you think the old one has nice autumn colors isnt it



 
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