[racka0]

Hi Guys,

My bike does some weird hiccups in low RPM. Sounds like one of the injector pumps the wrong way . But when I open the throttle all syndromes are goes away .Its specially annoying when I doing turns it feels like the bike want to die for a moment.
I run all stock , the only mod. is a micron muffler .
When the bike in higher rpm (from 30 mph -) its fine but from 0-30 mph makes it pretty often .
I also noticed the left muffler is much warmer than the right . I thought its can be because the rear cylinder is closer to the muffler and the exhausting air travels less than from the front cylinder / or I need to make some adjustment on my air mixture screw .
Any advices ?

 

[Slower than you]

Quite common but you can eliminate 99% of it. I say 99% as the cams have so much overlap you'll never get rid of it.

1. Set your TPS to 150 mV. It's likely running lean at low throttle settings and that contributes a lot to the intake backfire sneezes. Getting it set which is easy to do if you're the hands on type will eliminate 75% of it.

2. Fatten up the idle mixture by turning the air bleeds in a bit.

3. Get the cams degreed as they are typically off from the factory. This will eliminate the (almost) rest of it. For normal street riding try 108 and 108 for the cam timing. This will move the powerband down and you'll pickup a lot of midrange punch.

 

[racka0]

thanks for the quick respond.
Can you please explain each by each how to do it ?
Thanks

 

[Tuned]

I agree, its for sure fueling and TPS is one of the top culprits.

Racka, do a google search for "Ducati TPS setting" and you'll get TUNS of videos on how to do it.

 

[racka0]

good idea thanks

 

[Slower than you]

thanks for the quick respond.
Can you please explain each by each how to do it ?
Thanks

Search around for the methods to do the TPS. I wrote a dissertation on doing it with simple tools I think here on org.

Air bleeds are easy. Formally you use a gas tester to measure the ratio of fuel to air. But as a homie just set them for best idle.

Everything works together so step 1 is to set the TPS. Step 2 is balance the throttle bodies and set the bleeds. The most effective is to have the came degreed by a pro. Then set the bodies and bleeds.

TPS first tho and you'll likely find it will make hella difference. Mine was way lean at ~90 mV and fattening it up with the 150 setting made it a different bike. Once set it likely won't need to be checked again. After 10 years mine only drifted from 150 to about 158 and it ain't worth the time resetting it.