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No start. At a loss......

1246 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  ANORXIC'51
Hey, all. Got the bike back together with the 1040 kit and can't get it fired up to bring in for tuning. Truly at a loss as it sounds like it wants to come to life....

Here's all my troubleshooting, thus far...

-fully charged (13.2 on the dash) Ballistic Evo2 12cell (460 CCAs) cranks STRONG

-cleaned twin-relay pack attached to battery box with wire brush

-quadruple checked wiring connections for Motoelectric kit, as well as all other ECU/starting system-related wiring

-fuel pump primes when key is turned on

-fresh plugs and newer coils pulled and tested for spark. Strong spark against the heads.

-tank back on and pulled a filter pod to check for fuel spray. Matched injectors, full spray pattern.

-ruled out sprag because the starter is engaging and turning the crank

-Supposed to bring it in today for him to tune tomorrow, but have to head to bed by noon.

Only thing I can think of is possible cam timing is off enough to lose compression for combustion after I put the belts back on w/tension. Used the cam lock tool on the vertical cylinder, so not sure how that could happen....

Waiting for a few shops to open to ask opinions. Calling John @ Moon (arguably the best Ducati tech in the state) in a few min, then Mark @ DucShop at 10 regarding any initial start issues after 1040 install. From what I understood it should be able to at least fire off without extra fuel, but possibly the 20% in size is just too big to fire without fuel tune compensation...
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Well, chatted with both. Even with low compression it should at least light off. Most likely a combo of flooded cylinders and/or not enough fuel for the big bore.
Pull the pump out and see if the little hose popped off!?happened to me in a CMRA race last year. Still primed but wouldn't pick up fuel. Easy to check too.
Pull the pump out and see if the little hose popped off!?happened to me in a CMRA race last year. Still primed but wouldn't pick up fuel. Easy to check too.
I had the same issue at a WERA race this year!!
Try a different "colder" spark plug.

Champion RG59V

All engines with higher compression pistons (even if Big Bore kit or only High Compression pistons) need automatically different spark plugs to stock factory ones! The temperature range will change immediately. Therefor all engines need colder spark plug values!! And depending on the piston version, if piston deck is higher or not, the type of electrode is also different! Please consider that the minimum space between piston deck and electrode is 5mm and more (firing point)! Otherwise the piston will melt or crack! Furthermore please pay attention to the fuel grade (95, 98 or 100 octane. Depends on compression ratio) and air/fuel mixture.
Good/interesting info on plug/heat ranges. Shouldn't it at least fire regardless of heat range?
Sorry to leave this thread hanging. Work schedule and frustration led me to forget I posted. Ended up being a couple of slightly bent valves plus significant compression loss on the horizontal head due to that as well as being out of timing. All good now, and is currently at the tuner for proper dyno tuning. :)

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