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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently picked up a 2014 Multistrada. Absolutely awesome bike but what is with the all but worthless rear brake? Tried bleeding it, no good. I found 1 thread on this but no answers. Someone please clue me in.
 

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I had a 2013 GT. The back brake is a well known problem. Bleeding it by raising the calliper above the highest point of the system will (if you get it right) fix the soft peddle for a few hundred miles or so. People have tried fitting bleed nipples to the abs unit (at the top of the system), I believe in the USA Ducati tried out a fix to the master cylinder piston (or something similar) but all to no avail. I was offered a "soft bleed" under warranty from my Ducati dealer but the tech told me it he thought it was a waste of time (be such a temporary fix). After doing a few bleeds myself I just got used to pumping the rear brake on the rare occasion I wanted to use it. I asked my dealer if Ducati had fixed the issue on the DVT but he didn't know. The cause of the problem (so I heard) is heat from the exhaust in the area of the rear brake reservoir. The design in this area looks different on the DVT. No doubt someone will mention it if it's still a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks PT, it's kind of hard to swallow all the supposed need to bleed it constantly. Obviously somethings wrong if that's the case. I thought at first it just me be a percieved problem stemming from linked brakes but the damn thing just plain doesn't work. Kinda irritating low tech problem for an otherwise incredible bike.
 

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Picked up a 2010, and having read about the bad back brake I was expecting it, but was still amazed at how bad it was. While on the road for the long ride to get the bike home (7 days) and in for a tire change, and I went ahead and asked the shop tech to replace the (dark, old) brake fluid and bleed. He did it right, and I was pleasantly surprised to get it back with a now decent rear brake.
Been good since, for the last roughly 1500 miles of the trip.
The bike dives enough under front braking due to the longer suspension travel that it is nice to have that rear brake working...
 

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I had a 2013 GT. The back brake is a well known problem. Bleeding it by raising the calliper above the highest point of the system will (if you get it right) fix the soft peddle for a few hundred miles or so. People have tried fitting bleed nipples to the abs unit (at the top of the system), I believe in the USA Ducati tried out a fix to the master cylinder piston (or something similar) but all to no avail. I was offered a "soft bleed" under warranty from my Ducati dealer but the tech told me it he thought it was a waste of time (be such a temporary fix). After doing a few bleeds myself I just got used to pumping the rear brake on the rare occasion I wanted to use it. I asked my dealer if Ducati had fixed the issue on the DVT but he didn't know. The cause of the problem (so I heard) is heat from the exhaust in the area of the rear brake reservoir. The design in this area looks different on the DVT. No doubt someone will mention it if it's still a problem.
+1
had a simular issue on a 2nd hand MTS11, I have a full termi system, so no cat to generate heat for rear mater cyclinder, had it bleeded at a dealer and now I can hold the bike on a hill.
they told me the routine which is describe in this post.:)
 

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I've managed to make the rear brake pedal hard like a stone on my 2015 MTS 1200S. Here is step by step how-to. Don't worry, you won't get the rear wheel off the bike.
1. Remove rear mud-guard for easier access.
2. Remove the plastic part hiding the rear brake hydraulic lines.
3. Remove the small, hydraulic line holder piece from the right side.
4. Remove all small black pieces holding hydraulic and ABS lines together.
5. Now you can easily remove the rear caliper, turn it downside up and slide out from the chain side. Hold it as high as possible. Put something thick as your rear disc between pads.
6. Call your wife, sister or neighbor to help you pressing rear brake pedal while you crack the bleed valve. (Won't tell how to bleed, it's as usual.)
7. When it's completed, put everything together.
You won't believe how good the rear brake works.
Please try.

Derin.
 

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I've managed to make the rear brake pedal hard like a stone on my 2015 MTS 1200S. Here is step by step how-to. Don't worry, you won't get the rear wheel off the bike.
1. Remove rear mud-guard for easier access.
2. Remove the plastic part hiding the rear brake hydraulic lines.
3. Remove the small, hydraulic line holder piece from the right side.
4. Remove all small black pieces holding hydraulic and ABS lines together.
5. Now you can easily remove the rear caliper, turn it downside up and slide out from the chain side. Hold it as high as possible. Put something thick as your rear disc between pads.
6. Call your wife, sister or neighbor to help you pressing rear brake pedal while you crack the bleed valve. (Won't tell how to bleed, it's as usual.)
7. When it's completed, put everything together.
You won't believe how good the rear brake works.
Please try.

Derin.

How long does this fix last?

Also, does anyone know if similar problems exist on 2014 Monsters? My 1200 has a really weak rear brake. However, 2017 models (Monster, Multi, XDiavel) all have excellent rear brakes.

Is there a consensus solution that works at this point?
 

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I have this problem with my 2014 MS. I made sure the brake is functioning - I put the bike on the center stand, spun the wheel and applied the brake manually and it worked - but I couldn't make it work with my foot on the peg. I couldn't push the pedal down far enough to activate the brake. Something to do with the geometry of the linkage I guess. So I trained myself to use my right heel on the pedal. It feels funny at first but it works.
 
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