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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. Guys first time post ,read a fair bit here, I've bought myself a ex track 1098s supposedly 2k Klm's before last rebuild. I've finaly got road gear on a heap of cleaning and swapping fluids out rear disc caliper and general tidy up , been for a couple of rides ,love it compared to my old zx6 . The zx6 was solid 20k before rings probably half track Klm's ,but now my new 1098 is leaking from rear vertical cylinder , I don't trust the apprentice down the local bike shop on a bad morning more than myself, So what's on my cards guys what are my options and what do I need to do ? No experience with ducatis , I see oil leaks are common what do I need to do too make sure I'm not pulling this shit apart twice ?:ahhh:
 

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I haven't tackled my 1098, but have done piston swaps on my old 900SS and 916. Not super difficult as all the valve gear stays set when you remove the head.

Plus there's plenty of information and help online, especially from here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update

I just put a 14mm spanner on the head bolts, should I be able to get a quarter turn out of them? Motor was still a bit warm? Are they likely to snap the head bolts when it cools? At a guess I got 30Nmm on them warm ? What's worrse case scenario ? I gotta take the head off if I snap at stud ?
 

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1/4 of a turn which way? Are you trying to tighten them, with a hot engine, without a torque wrench?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yeah did manage to turn them , so pulled a torque wrench out calculated the extra leverage from the spanner length reduced the torque setting , fixed the leak , my suspicion was right they weren't torqued to spec , maybe the last mechanic didn't do the three step torque procedure. fixed my problem Happy ! Thank you.
 

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Not a good idea to tighten head studs while the engine is warm.
Perhaps when the engine is cool you might want to check them again with the torque wrench.
Hope fully you haven't over tightened anything.
Good luck, and proceed carefully with a valuable engine.
 

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Over tightening can cause uneven heat distribution, which leads to warpage.

Careful with that torque wrench my friend ;)
 

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Like every one has noted torquing warm is not good. Not because of stress due to thermal expansion but to insure everything has had time to shrink to the equal dimensions. Cold is the only way to know for sure. If you put 30nm on one and it turned then chances are they're under torqued or the gaskets have creeped. If you're going to re-torque them then do them all in specified X pattern, 1-3-2-4 sequence and IMO shoot for something slightly lower as new torque of nominal. Torque spec is nominal 60nnm +- 3nm.
 
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