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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the dealer told me i need to replace the clutch cover gasket if i want to install a open cover. Now why would I need to replace the gasket if it's dry clutch, not like anything will leak from it.

If i replace the pressure plate, do i need a special tool?
 

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It really is easy. There are six allen bolts on the spring caps, then a few more under the pressure plate. Trust me, it does not require alot of technical skill. There is an index mark on the basket on my 748, not sure about the 1098, but these things are usually not changed. The cover only requires three bolts i believe. There are big holes on certain bolts that the cover just slips over. My recommendation is to take digital pics of each step so incase you forget how it came apart, you can reference those. A manual always helps too..
 

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DocG said:
Whats a good website to buy clutch cover, plate and springs?
www.speedymoto.com has pressure plates and spring/cap/bolt packages as well as clutch covers

www.shift-tech.com has carbon clutch covers

There are a bunch of other places to find covers too (cyclecat), but I used these two places and can vouch for their quality and service
 

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suryad said:
What is the benefit of an open clutch cover?
Good thing: Your clutch will run a little cooler.
Bad thing: You run a higher chance of unwanted debris and other crap getting in there.

Mostly, it just looks really cool, if you go with a color anodized pressure plate and stainless springs (the stock ones will rust). How many other bikes out there have a dry clutch that you can actually see?
 

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suryad said:
What is the benefit of an open clutch cover?
Its a huge hit with the ladies and the sounds pretty cool. No actual mechanical benefits unless you are on the track or racing and smash the balls out the clutch, in which case it runs a little but cooler and the dust has somewhere to go instead of being stuck to the clutch over. But mostly for the ladies...
 

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It cools better
Looks better
sounds better (matter of opinion)
one of the easiest mods

I have never heard of or seen personally something happens to someones bike with an open cover. Do it!

Here's a few pics of mine...





 

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Oh, also, a properly designed one (i.e. stronger than the stock cast piece) will limit (or completely prevent) damage to the clutch in the event of a crash/tip over on the cover.
 

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DucatiGuy clutch plate instructions

Great instructions....previously posted in technical
Start by removing the clutch cover. You'll note some of the bolts are of different lengths. Be sure to put them back in the order / location they were removed. If you do mix them up, don't worry, as you'll notice if a bolt is too short or too long when getting them back on. It's not rocket science.

Once you have the cover off, you're going to be looking at a set of six springs with a retainer and bolt on each. Remove all six, and for the sake of keeping things neat, be sure to keep each retainer and bolt with the spring it came with. Once again if they get mixed up, don't worry about. It's no biggie.

Now before you pull the OEM clutch pressure plate, you're going to notice an arrow / pointer on it. Make a note of that position. This is important as the new clutch pressure plate will also have some sort of marking (dot / etch) or arrow that must be positioned in the same way / location.

Once you've made a note of the marking position, go ahead and simply pull the pressure plate off. It should slip off, but in the event it feels tight, gently pry it out. If the clutch rod comes out with it, don;t freak out. There's a bearing on the pressure plate that sometims holds it. You'll have to either pull or tap the rod off the pressure plate.

Once you have it off, be sure the rod is back in its place (inside the engine and not out on the floor, believe it or not I have seen that done), and now it's time to install the new pressure plate back in the same manor it was pulled off. Remember to find the marking and align it in the same manor as that the OEM was in.

FYI: Paulimoto billet pressure plates have two little etch marks as the "arrow marking" on one of the raised section of the spring holes. Subtle, clean and you can't miss it.

When you get to tightening the spring bolts back up, the best way to do so is to get the springs to bottom out and just when the bolt won't go anymore, give it a gently snug. Don't put your elbow into it! Just enough pressure your wrist will give is more than enough. I'm certain Ducati's manual has the exact torque specs to these things, but in the past 8 years that I owned and workd on Duc's, I've never had to look it up.

You would use the same procedure with a "spyder ring" as well, and with those, you don't have to line them up or anything like that. Pop it on, and tighten it up.

Working of Ducati dry clutches is easy. If at any point you run into a problem or just need to ask a question, drop me a line and I'll give you my direct number. I'll walk you through it. .. ..
 
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