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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Pro-Shift Installation Notes & Review

Blipping the throttle/rev-matching is a great riding skill to have under your belt. It’s hard to believe sometimes that there are many riders that don’t use this downshifting technique and some who haven’t heard of it altogether. For me, it makes downshifting a lot easier and much smoother. If you’re a new rider, or if you’re an experienced rider but are still unfamiliar with this technique, it may take a while to perfect… but it’s just a matter of practice, a matter of time and you’ll get it. Whether you’ve mastered this technique or not there are systems available that will perform this function for you, allowing for full clutchless downshifts. What does that mean? …it means one less thing to concern yourself with while setting up for a turn. I don’t ride with a death grip on the handle bars by any measure. I allow the bike to do the work, but when I ride for an extended period of time my hands will numb a little. As a result, I find that when downshifting I may be less consistent with my throttle blips… sometimes too heavy, sometimes too light. The Pro-Sift system solves this problem too by effectively removing me from the equation. You’ll also find that the Pro-Shift system compliments nicely the DQS clutchless upshift system already present on the 1199.

I installed the Drive By Wire (DBW) Auto-Blipper from Pro-Shift on my Panigale. This system comes with a Gearshift Control Unit (GCU), DBW Blipper Module, Magic Eye (shifter position sensor), Panigale gear lever, system on/off switch and all the wiring/connectors, etc. needed for installation on your bike. All the components used are of good quality unlike some of the products that I viewed from Pro-Shift’s competitors. I saw one system that looked like it was manufactured in a toolshed. The system from Pro-Shift allows for adjustment of the percentage of throttle opening when a blip is initiated as well as the on-time of the blip.

The staff at Pro-Shift was great to work with… very responsive to my questions and concerns. When you order the system it will be constructed to work specifically on your bike; it may or may not perform properly on a different bike of the same model as tolerances of electrical components may differ. It takes a few days to build the system after your order has been placed. Pro-Shift will ask for the frame number, engine number, and some voltage readings from your bike before proceeding with the build. The complete system will set you back 999GBP… that’s more than $1400USD. It’s not cheap and there are less expensive options available… but sometimes you get what you pay for.

I can’t say precisely how long the installation took because I did some other maintenance while I had the fairings removed, but everything (system installation and my maintenance) was completed in two days. I began by mounting the individual components (see attached). I fabricated an engine bracket to mount the GCU (not mandatory, just personal preference… the bracket was mounted in one of the holes originally used for the charcoal canister mount. It positions the GCU nearly two inches away from the engine and insulating pads mounted between the bracket and the GCU prevent heat from being transferred from the engine to the GCU), the DBW Blipper Module was piggy-backed on the ECU, the Magic Eye (shifter position sensor) was mounted to the generator housing, a new gear shifter bracket (included in the installation kit but not shown in the attached component listing) was installed on the gear shifter shaft and the system on/off switch was installed on the left handle bar. With all the components in place I turned my attention to the wiring. Four cables pass from the left-hand side of the bike to the right-hand side. I routed these cables under the front of the gas tank which required removal of the tank. This again was just a matter of personal preference as the cable length provided was more than adequate; a different routing selection could have been chosen. There are six wiring connections that have to be soldered between the DBW Blipper Module mounted on the ECU and your throttle/twistgrip, and one additional wire that has to be soldered to a switched 12V source. If you’ve never soldered before don’t sweat it. Soldering irons are inexpensive and even a novice is likely to successfully pull this job off. Once all the wiring has been terminated you’re ready to set the Magic Eye (shifter position sensor) to gearshift lever clearance and your blip point. If you have a set of feeler gauges making these initial adjustments will be fairly easy. The Magic Eye (shifter position sensor) is to be adjusted between 0.2mm and 2.0mm (2.5mm max) away from the gear lever. Keep in mind that your gear lever shaft will have some play in it. Push the shaft all the way in (in the direction of the engine) and then take your measurements. I adjusted mine tight (around .25mm) to compensate for gear shaft play. The blip trigger point is to be set between 1.0mm-2.0mm… I split the difference and set it to 1.5mm.

The installed Pro-Shift system works great… and while I’m very satisfied with the performance of the system, the quality of the components used and the helpfulness of the Pro-Shift staff, there is one area where I would suggest improvements be made… the instructions. The instructions are simply not the easiest to follow. If you purchase this system I would strongly urge you to read through the included literature and study the electrical diagrams several times before beginning the installation. Also, I pointed out to the Pro-Shift staff an error located on one of the electrical diagrams… hopefully, they’ll correct the error so that future customers won’t search for a Ducati 1199 switched 12V terminal point that doesn’t exist. See below for component and wiring information and photos.

Pro-Shift System–Main Components (refer to attached photo):
A. Blip On/Off Switch
B. 5A Fuse Holder
C. DBW Blipper Module
D. Gearshift Control Unit (GCU)
E. Magic Eye (Gearshift Position Sensor)

Pro-Shift System–Wiring (refer to attached photo):
1. Blue ring terminal on black wire, no band–connect to ground.
2. Blue ring terminal on black wire, red band–12v connection from 5A fuse holder, connect to positive battery terminal.
3. Female bullet connector on black wire with green band–connect to male bullet connector on grey wire with green band (item 4).
4. Connect to item 3 (above).
5. Female bullet connector on grey wire with green band–connect to male bullet connector on black wire with green band (item 6).
6. Connect to item 5 (above).
7. Blue ring terminal on black wire, no band–connect to ground.
8. Wiring to be soldered to accelerator position sensor.
9. Blue ring terminal on black wire, no band–connect to ground.
10. Red wire, no connector attached–connect to switched 12v source (solder to switched 12V source from E-LOCK relay feeding fuse blocks–red/white wire).
 

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