nicee, how does it work? so you change gears without flicking the clutch? u just close throttle? and change gears?
Quick Shifter recommendations?
I am in the market for a quick shifter and was curious if any of you have recommendations? I am leaning toward the DP quick shifter, but wanted to hear about experience with other units.
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it cuts the ignition for that split second when you shift. you can still be at full throttle and shift.
when it cuts the ignition it releases torque off the gearbox which in turn lets the transmisision change gears seamlessly while at full throttle.
when it cuts the ignition it releases torque off the gearbox which in turn lets the transmisision change gears seamlessly while at full throttle.
ohh ok thats awesome, and it doesnt harm the bike at all?
Hey Geraus, thanks for the pics. Were did you run your GROUND wire???
Those are my pics, I ran the ground wire to the negative terminal of the battery.Hey Geraus, thanks for the pics. Were did you run your GROUND wire???
I would relocate the control unit further along the frame above the battery.
I have melted the loom to my DTC from the heat of the exhaust under the seat! Yes the zip tie was not tight enough - but why chance it.
My other advice is to undo the strain guage on the shiftrod and spin it around so the cable faces away from your boot and runs up (with no slack) past the linkage arm and clutch slave. I know the word HM will not be facing the right way - but it is a much safer and cleaner way of installing the strain gauge.
I have melted the loom to my DTC from the heat of the exhaust under the seat! Yes the zip tie was not tight enough - but why chance it.
My other advice is to undo the strain guage on the shiftrod and spin it around so the cable faces away from your boot and runs up (with no slack) past the linkage arm and clutch slave. I know the word HM will not be facing the right way - but it is a much safer and cleaner way of installing the strain gauge.
Good points, thanks for sharing... I wasn't sure if turning the unit around would effect performance but it looks like you have been running one for some time.
I would relocate the control unit further along the frame above the battery.
I have melted the loom to my DTC from the heat of the exhaust under the seat! Yes the zip tie was not tight enough - but why chance it.
My other advice is to undo the strain guage on the shiftrod and spin it around so the cable faces away from your boot and runs up (with no slack) past the linkage arm and clutch slave. I know the word HM will not be facing the right way - but it is a much safer and cleaner way of installing the strain gauge.
Given that it works in both standard and GP shift - then the strain gauge is working in both directions, so 'no' it won't affect performance.
I have not used the HM version - but I think the control unit allows you to stipulate which direction you want the gauge to read - so it only cuts the engine in one direction (up shift) - but the R/L does not have that function.
I have not used the HM version - but I think the control unit allows you to stipulate which direction you want the gauge to read - so it only cuts the engine in one direction (up shift) - but the R/L does not have that function.
Thank you for showing pictures with the location of piggy backs for coil plugs. Made it 10x easier for me to locate them.I installed mine this evening. No need to raise the tank to install, you can access the coil plugs to piggy back off of just be removing the left side faring. About an hour job from start to finish.
And yes, no need to raise tank. Took about an hour.
I placed mine right next to rear coil piggy back. There is good place for it and a lot of other wires running there, so I assume it is not too there. Looks good.
Quickshifter works great!
So much fun! Cannot wait to test it properly at the track. I had to switch it to lowest sensitivity though, as I had problems with switching to first\neutral. Also, had an issue with switching from neutral to first, engine just cut off. Not sure how often that will happen, if too often, might disable it for the street.
Had to bump this cause I JUST saw it!
$299 for a qucik-shifter from "Annitori"?! No piggyback for the ECU like Bazzaz? Straight plug & play? Why is the DP so much??
$299 for a qucik-shifter from "Annitori"?! No piggyback for the ECU like Bazzaz? Straight plug & play? Why is the DP so much??
Just to add to this, I have the the Annitori QS on my bike for a couple months now and these are the problems I have with it.
1) on a cold engine when the bike is running the cold engine map, when you clutch in to get it into 1st gear to ride off, the ignition cut would be enough to stall the engine.
2) unlike the Dynojet QS, the Annitori RL doesn't allow you to set a period where the next shift can take place after you made a shift, so if your boot accidentally brushes the shifter, it's enough to get another upshift when you don't want it, and worth the Ducati 5-6 false neutral issues, it's really annoying when you get a false neutral going into 6th at full throttle.
3) unlike normal shifting without a QS, we could apply pressure on the shifter and only upshift by briefly closing the throttle, with the QS or any QS, you cannot apply any pressure on the shifter until you want to shift. Just something most don't think about until you get a QS installed.
1) on a cold engine when the bike is running the cold engine map, when you clutch in to get it into 1st gear to ride off, the ignition cut would be enough to stall the engine.
2) unlike the Dynojet QS, the Annitori RL doesn't allow you to set a period where the next shift can take place after you made a shift, so if your boot accidentally brushes the shifter, it's enough to get another upshift when you don't want it, and worth the Ducati 5-6 false neutral issues, it's really annoying when you get a false neutral going into 6th at full throttle.
3) unlike normal shifting without a QS, we could apply pressure on the shifter and only upshift by briefly closing the throttle, with the QS or any QS, you cannot apply any pressure on the shifter until you want to shift. Just something most don't think about until you get a QS installed.
Whilst I have not had any of these problems you list - it does kind of demonstrate that these are not really made for street riding.
If you think about it, at a race track - 1) the cold start issue won't happen as your bike will be warmed up in the pits. 2) when you are riding fast at the track you make structured gear changes and are not going to 'accidently' hit the gear lever unless you intend to (my foot goes back on the peg after shifting).
An issue that some people have with a QS is that they can get false neutrals from not selecting the gear hard enough. I don't mean slamming the gear lever, but the feel of riding with a QS is different to rolling off the throttle slightly for a clutchless change. I and many others have 'tapped' the lever and not had enough pressure for it to engage, you just need to apply more pressure. This is another advantage of GP shifting as you are pressing 'down' as you move up through the gears and it requires less effort.
Also make sure your shift-rod/gear lever height/length is set correctly, and the angle of the spline actuator is parralell to the corresponding linkage part of the rearset to maximise the physical efficiency of your inputs.
Failing this - I would also make sure your shift alignment drum is within factory specs, as you shouldn't hit a false neutral between 5-6th.
If you think about it, at a race track - 1) the cold start issue won't happen as your bike will be warmed up in the pits. 2) when you are riding fast at the track you make structured gear changes and are not going to 'accidently' hit the gear lever unless you intend to (my foot goes back on the peg after shifting).
An issue that some people have with a QS is that they can get false neutrals from not selecting the gear hard enough. I don't mean slamming the gear lever, but the feel of riding with a QS is different to rolling off the throttle slightly for a clutchless change. I and many others have 'tapped' the lever and not had enough pressure for it to engage, you just need to apply more pressure. This is another advantage of GP shifting as you are pressing 'down' as you move up through the gears and it requires less effort.
Also make sure your shift-rod/gear lever height/length is set correctly, and the angle of the spline actuator is parralell to the corresponding linkage part of the rearset to maximise the physical efficiency of your inputs.
Failing this - I would also make sure your shift alignment drum is within factory specs, as you shouldn't hit a false neutral between 5-6th.
Got a '11 848 SBK, was wondering what length shift rod I should get?
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