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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up a 2007 1098 and took it out for a little ride on one of my favorite twisty roads. I just came off a late model zx10 and have ridden this road for years, with it and many other bikes and never had this happen. I was running upper 70mph went into a left sweeper in 3rd gear and got on the gas pretty good, the rear tire spun and I almost high sided. Obviously this got my full attention and went to the house to confirm suspension settings and tire pressures. Been tweaking the settings but the bike still wants to spin if much throttle is applied. Tires are almost new continental contimotions and definitely not my first choice of rubber, but still they are decent tires and I've never had this problem with any of my prior bikes. Any ideas, thoughts, suggestions, as my confidence level with this is a little low at moment.
 

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A wee bit more torque then the ZX10 and not the best tires. I would expect that tire to spin. I'd take the bike in, get the suspension set for your weight and maybe think about putting some nice Pirelli's or Dunlop's on there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the welcome! I definitely agree about the tires and as soon as my finances allow, new rubber is going on. As far as getting the suspension setup, where I live here in NC, there isn't a competent shop within 100 miles! The duc definitely has more torque than the zx10 but I also had an Aprilia rsv1000r with comparable torque and never ever had it spin. Any suggestions to try til I can find a shop to do the suspension?
 

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Hmm...maybe try setting the suspension to stock then going from there?

FORKS:
The STANDARD factory settings are as follows:
compression:
3/4 turns (1098),
8 clicks (1098S - 1098S Tricolore);
rebound:
12 clicks (1098),
10 clicks (1098S - 1098S Tricolore);
Spring preload (1098)(A, fig. 44.1): 18 mm;
corresponds to an actual preload of 9 mm.
Spring preload (1098S - 1098S Tricolore); starting with the
adjuster screwed FULLY OUT, screw it in clockwise 8 turns;
corresponds to an actual preload of 8 mm.
To change the preload on the inner spring for each fork leg,
turn the adjuster with the hex end (2, fig. 44.1 and fig. 44.2)
with a 22 mm hex wrench.

REAR SHOCK:
Adjuster (1), located on the left-hand side at the point at
which the shock absorber is fixed to the swingarm, controls
rebound damping.
The adjuster (2) on the shock absorber reservoir controls
compression damping.
Turn the adjusters (1 and 2) clockwise to stiffen the damping
or anti-clockwise to soften it.
(1098)
STANDARD setting:
from the fully closed position (turned fully clockwise), unscrew:
adjuster (1) by 2 turns
adjuster (2) by 2 turns.
Spring preload: 28 mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the settings, I was just in the process of downloading manual from Ducati lol I'm pretty close to the stock specs now, so if I can figure out which way I need to go, maybe I can make a little progress.
 

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Yeah I agree with the others. Cant think of any reason for it to slip at that speed other than
1. tires suck
2. road conditions like moisture, oily film, painted line that is slippery, something like that (i'm really grasping at straws here)
3. suspension + 1, not just suspension alone, and I really doubt #3.

There is nothing else to it. It seems simple power being applied and traction is not being maintained and the tire is spinning faster than movement on the pavement. I am leaning towards those tires. I ride a 1098S at the track and I beat the F out of it and I never get slipping just going straight on the throttle (granted, I run slicks always hot).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the links I'll do some reading, and I have a near new bt016 but it's a 180/55 thought about spooning it on.
 

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Ohh and NC is home to Öhlins and my buddy David @ Fast Bike Industries. Look him up, he can make your suspension work. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I will look him up and see if he can get it sorted, unfortunately my wife has decided to be a stay at home mom and our income has significantly decreased in the process so I will have to start saving my pennies! Lol
 

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I'd take the bike in, get the suspension set for your weight and maybe think about putting some nice Pirelli's or Dunlop's on there.
Which Dunlop's are you recommending or referring to ? ..
 

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Everyone has an opinion on tires. I only run Pirelli Superbike Slick rear 200/60/17.. So I'm not biased when I say I keep reading over and over how for general street use and even a track day everyone seems like they love the dunlop Q3. I personally haven't ran them. I ran the Michelin pilot power 3 a few times and for my level it wasn't enough. If I was converting my 1098s to street I would give the q3 a try personally.
 

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I run Q3's on my Tuono V4, it's got more rwhp than my 1098.

They stick like glue, warm up quickly, but traction comes at the expense of life. I get around 1500-1800 miles out of a rear and about 2500 out of a front. The front is usually worn out on the sides before the center.

My Tuono came with OEM Pirelli Diablo Corsa's. These worked well until they we about 3/4's worn out, at which point rear traction went down considerably. After the original set wore out, I put the same tires back on, but after experiencing the same issues toward the end of their life I made the switch to the Q3's and those are pretty much what I'm sticking with.

I ran Michelin 2CT's on my old Tuono V2 and really liked those. I ran many sets of those before the Q3's came to market.
 

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For the track, Dunlop GPA's with tire warmers. Loved those tires when I ran them. (You can get takeoffs cheap, too)
Thanks for sharing..
 

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Thanks for sharing..
The GPA is a DOT race tire (so it has the sipes/tread). If you are one of those guys who does track, then Sat/Sun ride out in the twisties and doesn't want to change the tires, then this is a logical choice. However, if you are good with a dedicated track tire, then if you are a Dunlop fan then the NTec, if you are a Pirelli, then the Superbike Slick.
 

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mac, what part of NC? I'm near the Asheville area throughout the summers.

G8rDuc, GO GATORS!
 
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