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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day fellas I have just done a chain and sprocket upgrade but when trying to get the rear wheel nut on I am torquing it up very tight but I still have a fair way to go before I can get a retaining pin in place correctly
I'm using a 2 ft breaker bar with a section of pipe running through my wheel rim to stop it from moving while I crank down on the nut and it's very tight now but the holes for the pin are still a ways off by about a whole rotation of the nut any help appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i doubt it as the slots that the pin go into haven't reached where it goes into the pin yet

one thing to know is I have changed the swing arm from the original 1098 swing arm to a new 898 swing arm but the axle is the same so i don't see why i can not fit the wheel nut locking pin
 

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Air tools/impact gun will more than tighten it up if you have enough air pressure, but you won't know what torque it's done up to.
Spec torque is 230Nm.
I marked the nut and axel before removing with a rattle gun and did it back up to the same mark with the rattle gun. No damage.
 

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+1... every once in a while I will check the marks with a torque wrench to check...
But I am a bit anal.
 

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You've probably gone too much if you're putting that much torque on it. If you torque it to 180 lb-ft (230 N-m), then at least one hole should line up so you can put the pin in. In fact after doing it a few times I started using the hole as a gage, and I would basically torque the nut enough to where I could put the pin on. Always worked well. Taking it off is more of a bitch though.
 

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Also check the other 2 holes. There are 2 sets of 2 holes, opposite from each other. Usually only one will work, so if the ones in the picture don't, try the opposite side.
 

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Rubbish beat me to it. There are holes as he said opposite side of each other.

Sometimes if the hole doesnt line up and your choice is to extremely over torque it , or under torque it, I under torque it a tiny bit by just easing it back off to make the hole align. Because the factory torque spec seems overkill, but the idea is to prevent it from coming off too, but that is the point of the retaining clip. IMHO I recommend you safety wire or zip tie the ends of the retaining clip after install. Extra insurance.
 

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Sometimes if the hole doesnt line up and your choice is to extremely over torque it , or under torque it, I under torque it a tiny bit by just easing it back off to make the hole align. Because the factory torque spec seems overkill, but the idea is to prevent it from coming off too, but that is the point of the retaining clip.
The torque spec for the 1098 rear wheel nut is 230 N·m ±5% with grease applied (important) to the threads. The proper method is to torque to the lower value (218 N·m) and check for alignment of the hole in the nut with one of the holes in the stub axle. Then tighten the nut to get alignment.

If you incorrectly tighten to some unknown torque value, and then loosen to achieve alignment, you risk achieving a final torque that is insufficient to prevent wheel back-and-forth rotational movement of the wheel about its axle. This movement under acceleration and braking can damage the wheel locating pins/holes and axle.

The purpose of this high torque value is to prevent this wheel rotation and damage.
 

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Good info shazaam. I knew the 230Nm as it is in the service manual, and i always throw on some Mobil-1 synthetic grease. I'll remember the 5% +/- and start at the 218Nm, check if pin aligns, then start adding till you can get the pin hole.
 

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IMHO I recommend you safety wire or zip tie the ends of the retaining clip after install. Extra insurance.

Definitely do this; I safety wire mine now. Some of you may remember my incident a couple of years ago when the nut on the sprocket side came off completely: clip, nut and all!

I never use my impact wrench to tighten/torque nuts, though; I've seen and heard of too many horror stories about some serious damage happening if you go too tight. I always torque to spec, but I'm a little bit of a torque geek, I suppose.
 

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Definitely do this; I safety wire mine now. Some of you may remember my incident a couple of years ago when the nut on the sprocket side came off completely, clip, pin and all!

I never use my impact wrench to tighten/torque nuts, though; I've seen and heard of too many horror stories about some serious damage happening if you go too tight. I always torque to spec, but I'm a little bit of a torque geek, I suppose.
wow thats one hell of a picture. good lord!! glad it didn't lead to a crash!
 

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Just bought an aftermarket any concerns?
Some of the aftermarket ones are thicker than stock and won't torque down enough to allow the safety pin to be inserted. LighTech is bad for this. I used to have them on both sides and has to mark them and keep an eye on them periodically. I had the sprocket side come loose a couple of times and finally went back to the stock one on that side. The wheel side never moved.
 

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I think that has to do with the way the wheel rotates. Forces on the wheel side tighten the nut and the sprocket side loosen. I've noticed the same thing on cars.
Very correct. The wheel has the four locator pins to keep it solid as well and help with forward and rearward torque. The sprocket side while splined has a slight bit of movement and the torque of the motor far exceeds the torque on the nut and will move it enough accelerating and decelerating to loosen it. I ended up drilling a hole in the aftermarket nut aligned with the holes in the axle and used a cotter pin. Was a bit of a pain when using the rear stand which is why I eventually went back to the stock nut and OEM retainer ring.
 

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Here's my take. The sprocket side big-nut rarely gets removed, I use an aluminum one, steel washer in place, installed and torqued carefully using the aluminum socket, fit the wire clip and safety wire it on... Ti big-nut on the wheel side, big steel socket used with the 1/2 drive Milwaukee impact, and lots of anti-seize, this one comes on and off a lot more often.
 
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