[DFW1098]

I want to pop my belt covers off to visually inspect my belts on my SF1098S, they are the carbon fiber type, I glanced at it and at first look it seems like it will be tricky without removing all kids of stuff. I'm sure many here have done it, how hard is it?


Thanks in advance

 

[Donger]

Best bet is to remove the wirings that were zip-tied around the area.
Not much room you can do tbh.
just need some patience.

 

[keju]

Pull off the seat and remove the bolt that anchors the gas tank to the frame right about where the front of the seat was. That allows you to lift the tank up and easily slide the top belt cover out. You're just removing one bolt and nothing else, not taking the entire gas tank off. The lower cover just requires removing all of the bolts that are holding it in place.

 

[keju]

I forgot to add, also remove the black plastic panel that runs along the seat/gas tank.

I didn't have to remove or cut any of the clips/cables to pop the lower cover out. All I had to do was pinch the radiator hose a little to squeeze the cover through.

 

[Dirt]

Pull off the seat and remove the bolt that anchors the gas tank to the frame right about where the front of the seat was. That allows you to lift the tank up and easily slide the top belt cover out. You're just removing one bolt and nothing else, not taking the entire gas tank off. The lower cover just requires removing all of the bolts that are holding it in place.

I personally like to remove the tank.

I also like to lift the rear of the Airbox up a bit as well. This provides I bit more room to work, but it requires the large hose clamps that hold the Throttle bodies to be loosened off.
The rest will be common sense

It's also necessary to disconnect the moulded rubber Crankcase breather hose right at the bottom where it attaches to the Crankcase with a hose clamp.
I leave the hose clamp sitting down on and over the spigot on the Crankcase where the hose is removed from.
The hose is then rotated upward between the frame and Vertical belt cover and bent/folded backwards on itself, with the end to be hooked up and jammed between the frame and the Airbox, where it stays out of the road while you work.
(Before bending the Breather hose back and up, I slide a clean rag between the back of the hose and Carbon cover to minimize the possibility of scratches on that beautiful Carbon cover, due to dirt/dust being trapped behind the hose in that area.)

Regarding the wiring harness.
I don't remove any wiring cable ties as it's not necessary.
However, I do unplug the(round) wiring connector that goes directly onto the switch which is located just behind the oil filler plug in the crankcase right above the sight glass.

I also remove the other 2(flat) wiring connectors in that area that are attached to the frame, by simply sliding them forward straight off their respective flat attachment tabs that are welded onto the underside of the frame.
I then just move them to the outside a little to free up some room to work unimpeded.
This will give you a bit more clearance without the wiring getting in the way too much.
You may also like to unplug them as required, especially the plug that connects the rear cylinder O2 sensor.

Remove the Horizontal cover first.
It's a good practice run for the Vertical cover
The Horizontal/front cylinder cover will be pretty straight forward to remove. Just take your time, and don't go like a bull at a gate.
Use your common sense and take care.

The Vertical/rear cylinder cover takes a fair bit of careful manipulation and common sense to get out.
It first has to be moved rearward a little to get enough clearance to be able to slide it up and out.
With a fair bit of twisting and care after it's moved rearward, it will eventually slide up and out. It's a bit of a squeeze and awkward.
I also place a clean rag between the front of the Vertical Carbon belt cover and the frame to eliminate the possibility of scratches on the cover. It will happen otherwise

You will also require a set of long Ball-end Allen keys in order to get at a couple of the Socket head cap screws that hold the vertical cover on. The frame gets in the way of any other tools, so you have to get at the cap screws from a downward angle. Thus requiring the Ball-end Allen keys (5 mm).
It's also a good idea to cover the top of the frame with a couple of layers of masking tape or a rag, where the Ball-end Allen keys are used. Otherwise you could easily scratch your frame

I think that about covers it in it's entirety

It's a very simple process.
Just take your time and be careful

 

[pat1098]

Wow Dirt - a very detailed report!

Definitely you need a set of ball-ended (Bondhus) Allen keys.

And a small tube to act as an extension when you have to use the long end of the key against the bolt.

The rear is the problem. It is very tight past the frame. Much easier with the tank well out of the way, and the breather hose removed.

You need to ease it rearwards past the front (adjustable) belt tensioner wheel, then upwards.

And approach from the reverse direction to refit it.

On some carbon belt covers the top/central bolt (near the upper pulleys) doesn't bottom out properly. You will heed to put some low-number Loctite or some silicone on the threads of these two to prevent them loosening.

 

[Dirt]

Thanks Pat.

I fully support peoples initiative to have a go.
If it's possible to leave them fully informed of the scope of work, it's all good

Your contribution certainly improves upon my submission.

I agree with you about the Loctite.
When the Belt cover screws are removed, there's some factory fitted dry-tight left on the threads.
Like yourself, upon re-assembly I personally like to use a drop of Loctite blue(242/243) on the screws to supplement what's left on there from factory already