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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone, please shed some light on how to remove the stock clutch of a 1098? There's a main nut stopping me from pulling the hub out that's a huge allen, not a normal hex. I spoke with the Ducati service area and they sent me a diagram that shows a hex nut, not an allen. Just curious if I should go at this with my impact gun or if there's a lock/washer holding it too.

Please, someone HELP!!!! Here are a couple of pics...
 

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Here is my suggestion; if you have the proper allen socket that will fit the hub nut go ahead and hold the the basket with a rag and rattle the nut off. However here is my concern, I am a stickler for tork wrenches and there is a special tool to hold the clutch basket so you can tork that nut down properly. yes, you could rattle it back on but that would be back-yard-ish for such a nice bike.... thats my thought...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input, and link to other pics. I tried ordering the Ducati tool to hold the clutch basket, but the dealer says they're not allowed to sell Ducati tools...sounds like BS to me. Anyway, I tried an impact gun to remove the nut (while holding the basket) but it didn't budge. Just curious if I'm missing a step.

Also, do you recommend replacing the bolts that hold the clutch basket when I reinstall?
 

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O Shi...t, It is a good possibility that the shaft has reverse threads. I recommend you get a service manual before proceeding. As far as the tool is concerned I have used universal clutch basket tools before and they work great. They look like a vise grip with long arms that fits in the groves of the inner basket.

Here is the tool you need: http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/tools/index.html
scroll down 3/4 of the way.

You might want to give them a call: http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/contact.html
 

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You should not have to replace the bolts, however you must tork them correctly.(maybe 8 or 9 lbs)(just guessing) Also, please take note if they had light duty lock tight in the threads, if so clean the bolt treads and reapply the (290?) correct loctite.

Hope that helps
 

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shaft and allen nut has a normal thread. the nut is secured by a lock washer AND loctite.
the service manual says that it is a must to replace the bolts.
in my case i did not replace them.

tork allen nut: 250Nm and loctite
8mm bolts: 35Nm and loctite

mec
 

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Although Ducati recomends replacing the bolt/nut EVERY time you take it off, the ONLY time I see it fit is on bikes with VERY high milage, or those who use their bikes on the track (all out racing).

The reason for Ducati's thinking is simply due to the fact that the bolt/nut goes through a serious amount of stress caused by the constant up and down heat cycle of the engine being used and then not. Although this type of use can wear out a metal, it does take a bit of time to happen. How fast, and over how long of a period time - considering the bolt/nuts size, IMO it'll take quite a few thousand miles. For most of us with relatively new (street use) bikes, you'll be ok reusing your OEM nut.

Understand Ducati just wants to cover their rear and ofcourse make a little $$$ doing so...
 

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Thanks for the input, and link to other pics. I tried ordering the Ducati tool to hold the clutch basket, but the dealer says they're not allowed to sell Ducati tools...sounds like BS to me. Anyway, I tried an impact gun to remove the nut (while holding the basket) but it didn't budge. Just curious if I'm missing a step.

Also, do you recommend replacing the bolts that hold the clutch basket when I reinstall?
BellissiMoto - Special Tools
Clutch hub tool. Pick up a pair of dial calipers and its pretty easy to figure out what you need for the metric Allen.
 

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You need an impact-tolerant 19 mm Allen socket. It should be black. And you need an impact (or 'rattle') gun.
You should be able to undo the nut if you leave all the plates in, have the bike in gear, and the rear brake on.
You need to put inwards pressure against the plates, and the impact gun should undo the nut.
And yes, it is a conventional thread. And no, you don't need to replace the nut.
But the point made above about not using this method to re-tighten is correct. You should have a holding tool and a torque wrench.
Re-tightening with the rattle gun can leave the nut under or over tightened. The splines through the thread on the shaft can act like a thread tap and tear the threads on the nut, which is probably why the factory recommends changing it.
But I have had to rebuild my clutch several times, without replacing the nut, and 68,000 kms tells me it's OK.
 

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Thanks Pat. I have driven to 5 different stores looking for a 19mm allen socket with no luck. 18mm was the largest I could find. Any ideas on where to pick one up? I fear a snap on truck is probably my only options.
 

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harbor freight didnt have 1? i got my 36mm socket from them to change my rear tranny seal in my 4runner
 

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Thanks for posting the Allen socket size. Worked like a champ, swapped out parts and all done. 19mm allen socket made for impact wrench.
 
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