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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 1198 that doesn't like to run from 2-5000 rpm. The same thing happened lat year and it was just a plug so I changed both plugs and it's still doing it. Plugs were wet when I pulled them but when I pulled the new ones they were dry. The bike seems to only be running on on cylinder between 2-5000 rpm and I don't know what to do. Plugs are fine, fuel tank vents are all clear. Wondering what to test on the fuel pump for pressure and voltage and how do I test the coil pack/ wires? Bike has just under 5000 miles
 

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Yea, I don't think its fuel. Lower RPM issues are usually something else as it doesn't need full fuel pressure.

I mean, truth be told, it could be anything. We'd need to know the list of updates you've made to the bike and when the last time it got wet. ;)
 

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I take it you've tried another set of spark plugs, just by way of elimination? Even though they look dry, and presumably spark when you check..
But plugs can fail under the compression environment, even though they spark OK out of it.
I stress this as fouling spark plugs is a feature of these, particularly when running the DP ECU and exhaust, which provides a rich mixture on the cold-running circuit. (It probably relates to the small diameter of the plugs).
Avoid starting the engine and switching it back off. They don't like it. If you start it, ride it, then this problem should not recur, if indeed it is the plugs.
Some have found Iridium plugs less prone to this, and I have a set in mine at the moment (Thanks Nick!) but cannot categorically say this prevents this issue.
But starting it and switching it off again will cause it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When you say plugs are fine what colour are they?
Did it come good after changing the plugs last year?
After changing the plug last year the bike worked great. I did have a crank sensor go about a month ago but no problems since that even after a day at the track. The plugs I replaced had fuel and carbon on them but looked To be in good shape but I replaced them anyways since it's had to check them because the coil packs/wires are spring loaded. New plugs looked brand new after 40 miles running with the same issue of the bike seeming to only fire one cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Haven't made any updates to the bike. It's basically stock. When I fired it up after changing the plugs I left it running for about 5 minutes then headed out for at least 40 miles. After only a minute of driving the problem came back and the temp was still low. I have a diagnostic tool and I'll plug it in tonight if I have some time but the repair manual I have doesn't list voltage and pressures for trouble shooting parts.
 

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Sounds like a coil problem. We had a forum member with a 1098 that started having that problem intermittently and they couldn't find it till it finally just quit completely. Turned out to be a coil. Problem was.......when it was running on one cylinder it was loading up the cat with unburned fuel. The new coil made the bike run great but quickly heated up the cats and the unburned fuel caused a massive fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds like a coil problem. We had a forum member with a 1098 that started having that problem intermittently and they couldn't find it till it finally just quit completely. Turned out to be a coil. Problem was.......when it was running on one cylinder it was loading up the cat with unburned fuel. The new coil made the bike run great but quickly heated up the cats and the unburned fuel caused a massive fire.
Yeah when my plug did it last year the bike ended up catching fire in the mufflers an now they are blue yellow from the heat. It sucked. Is there an easy way to test the coils? They seem to be spring loaded and I don't really want a shock haha
 

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Ahh got ya, so no mods..

First thing I'd do is insure the plugs are the right ones. Don't assume the plugs you pulled out were the right ones, or the dealership sold you the right ones. I've had nothing but problems sourcing the proper plugs on the 848/1098/1198 motor.

Second thing is to determine if its a fueling or ignition problem, now that we've pretty much ruled out its not an aftermarket part which is causing the issue. My guess is, you'll find it has nothing to do with the plugs, but perhaps a loose ignition cable/bad coil, dirty injector or out of calibration/bad TPS unit. All three of those things can cause the symptoms you're describing, so that's where I'd start to look.

The TPS is easy to test, all you need to do is pop off the air box (to access the connector better) stick a multimeter on two of the three pins (you can tell which ones are which the moment you start the test), set the meter to Ohms and simply open/close the throttle. This is the quickest way to figure out if the potentiometer is functioning properly. The Ducati diagnostic tool should also allow you to re-calibrate it.

The rest is harder to test. Injectors you can clean with an ultrasonic cleaner, which are cheap. Loose cables and ignition coils are hard because they stop working randomly. You can swap components (coils and injectors) in order to see if the problem goes away as well, for sure worth checking into. Testing coils at higher RPM's is almost impossible, I'm sure if the bike starts, its working fine at lower RPM so testing them the old fashion way, isn't going to help.

So Ducati diagnostic first and then I'd simply go through the bike, re-checking things and cleaning the injectors.
 

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Yeah when my plug did it last year the bike ended up catching fire in the mufflers an now they are blue yellow from the heat. It sucked. Is there an easy way to test the coils? They seem to be spring loaded and I don't really want a shock haha
Dang.. yea I agree, bad coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok old codes were up but also P0135 and P0141. I cleared them all and took the bike out to replicate the problem. The bike showed the same symptoms but no codes appeared.
 

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Just re-read this and realised that you had the plugs possibility covered. I got a bit lost with your previous problem and the current one.

No spark at all on that cylinder if you check with the plug connected, and earthed, but out of the motor? Or is the problem intermittent?

A coil is certainly a possibility if there is no spark. I presume you have isolated which cylinder is the culprit? (It won't be getting hot like the other one if it is a complete failure). And of course you will have checked all connections relating to that coil.

Swapping the coils is not straightforward with different length wires - substituting one off another bike may be easier.

Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So a friend told me how to test the o2 sensors and see if the heat circuit is working. I'm going to check them this afternoon but he said if they are faulty then a faulty reading can cause the issue of having the bike seem to run on 1 cylinder because it would adapt the fuel mapping to compensate for the exhaust heat requirements. Ill let you guys know how it works out. Looks like both o2 sensors may have gotten fried.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If there is an 02 problem, the check engine light would come on.
They both read about 15 ohms and seem fine. Getting spark at both plugs. Going to smoke test the vaccume lines but I'm really lost at this point. Can the injectors or coils act up under load? That's the only way I can reproduce the problems is by putting the bike on a stand and driving it.
 

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Not sure about injectors but coils can act up under load, because of vibration, due to heat or having cracks in their housings causing arcing when inside the cylinder head.
 

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Can the injectors or coils act up under load? That's the only way I can reproduce the problems is by putting the bike on a stand and driving it.
Yep, both can change under load. Injectors can spray wrong under lower RPM's and at higher RPM's they need more flow and can cause issues like this. Coils usually have issues are higher RPM's anyway, thats a typical failure symptom.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How can i test the fuel pump? I just want to check it to make sure it works so I'll know it's only a few things left since I have the tank off. The coils work but I may buy one and change them out to see if that's a possible problem. Might be a while :/
 

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Cam Position Sensor???
 
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