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Now I don't know anything but the thought occurred.

Can you swap the coils from one cylinder to the other? If it's a coil, the problem should follow it....
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Ok this might be a stretch but why if it a faulty crank sensor? What if vibration during drive cause it to missread the crank and it messes up the injectors under load. Could this happen or would it just quit outright? I just replaced one the quit a month ago but bought a used one online. I might put it back on the diagnosis program while on a stand and actually drive it and see if I can see anything happening in the live readings throught the 2-5000rpm range.
Also my book says the bike ( which doesn't have DDA) should display a code on the dash upon start up mode and mine never has. It's just the 1198 no an S or Sp is that why? The most it has done in the past is a check engine light or the warning triangle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Now I don't know anything but the thought occurred.

Can you swap the coils from one cylinder to the other? If it's a coil, the problem should follow it....
It might if I could tell which cylinder was actin up. Both coils work while cranking the issue seems to be mostly in gear between 2-5000 rpm or where this bike has the majority of its torque
 

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The crank sensor only gives a pulse to the ECU. It doesn't give two pulses, just one. So the whole premise of it sounding like its running one cylinder goes out the window in that case.

Its hard to test coils if you don't know which cylinder is bad. Swapping them doesn't help either, but might as well try it since they're so easy to get at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
New plugs and wires and nothing has changed. Still runs rough. Sometimes it's even violent like right before a stall before it picks up again
 

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There's a thread here about one guy having oil leak issue and rough running and cut and dying. His horizontal cylinder is toast. It's a very bready situation.
 

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New plugs and wires and nothing has changed. Still runs rough. Sometimes it's even violent like right before a stall before it picks up again
Have you had the TPS reset? The EFI on my hotrod will do this when the TPS isnt calibrated correctly. Just a thought.

And its my 1198 with the horizontal cylinder that is dead :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Pretty sure it's the TPS or computer now. Realized a dead spot at cracked open throttle and ha a dealer look at it and replicate the issue. Now trying to localte and inexpensive used throttle body assembly because you can't replace jut the tps.
Does anyone know if the 848 or 1098 throttle bodies will work? I've seen posts of people selling 848 bodies for use in bigger bore bikes??
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Pretty sure it's the TPS or computer now. Realized a dead spot at cracked open throttle and ha a dealer look at it and replicate the issue. Now trying to localte and inexpensive used throttle body assembly because you can't replace jut the tps.
Does anyone know if the 848 or 1098 throttle bodies will work? I've seen posts of people selling 848 bodies for use in bigger bore bikes??
 

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I haven't struck the problem personally, but I know others on here have had issues with their TPS, and have replaced just their TPS potentiometer.

Don't go rushing to buy throttle bodies.

I'm sure others will provide details on where to buy the TPS internals.

Wasn't the TPS suggested earlier in this thread?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I haven't struck the problem personally, but I know others on here have had issues with their TPS, and have replaced just their TPS potentiometer.

Don't go rushing to buy throttle bodies.

I'm sure others will provide details on where to buy the TPS internals.

Wasn't the TPS suggested earlier in this thread?
Gothemcycles in NY sells just the tps sensor and said there is a way to replace just that instead of the whole assembly. Just waiting for the mailman now. I'll keep you guys posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Ok, replaced TPS and that problem is gone. New problem is the bike is all of a sudden running real rich. I have 2 sets of plugs and running on the street and driveway it fouls them in seconds. Clean them off and try again and it does the same. Is there something I needed to donwhem replacing the tps? The original problem is fixed but this is just as bad..
 

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sent you a pm Tom
 

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Heh,sounds like the exact same problem I`ve been chasing for over a year.

Changed everything--twice-- from coils to pump to filters to rectifier to everything in between,even tried the stock ecu no dice.

With a switch of the tps the problem somehow got less of a proble,the bike was rideable,but the tps kept losing its value (about 2.6) on the vdst.

Now tye tells me to calibrate the tps but I`m not familiar with this procedure.

Kinda feels good knowing that I`m not the only one with this problem,might be a solution in a near future...I`m starting to hate my bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Yeah I'm going to stop by a member on here's house tomorrow after work. He said he has the program to recalibrate the new sensor. My fingers are crossed. Even 2 dealers couldn't figure it out. I had to take a day off of work and test drive it on and off from the dealership just to help them trouble shoot the damn thing. All I know is it was definitely the problem but now it runs real rich. Still pulls the wheels up though lol
 
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