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Discussion Starter #1
This is a plea for help from the technically minded among you.

I've been having a problem with my 1098R where, when you clutch in coming to a halt in the city the revs seem to stay at around 3k for several seconds, before dropping back to idle. Similarly, if you give it a blip at idle, it will sometimes do the same thing - sticking at anything up to 3.5 or 4k revs and often for several seconds. I find though that, in the former case, if I kick it into neutral, the revs will normally drop pretty quickly.

I've just got the bike back from my mechanic, who has reflashed the ECU, played around with the air bleed & mixture, as well as the spark advance - and the bike is generally running noticeably better as a result - but it has not fixed the problem. It's slightly improved, but still there, with the revs just sticking at a slightly lower level and maybe dropping to idle a bit more quickly.

The problem seems to be more pronounced when the bike is hot - but that's about the only other piece of info I can provide.

Has anyone had this problem & can you suggest solutions? All thoughts appreciated. :violin:
 

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Yea, ya know TPS reset isn't a bad idea, but I don't think thats the problem in this case.

When the motor is hot, everything expands, including the throttle plates. My guess is, the throttle plates are simply not closing all the way as a consequence. Its an older bike now and it probably needs someone to go through the throttle plate system, clean it up and re-assemble it. I've seen this problem happen on Ducati's I've had in my shop for service. I always start with cleaning the throttle plates and throttle cables, then test. Sometimes its a vacuum leak, a cracked hose somewhere OR simply one of the air screw rubber o ring seals failing. Usually vacuum leaks don't fix themselves however, so if the problem goes away, then its most likely the throttle bodies not closing all the way.
 

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I've had the same problem since installing the 1098 engine with the Microtec ECU and here is what [email protected] told me:

"The throttle bodies could be out of sync, if not close off the air bleeds if they are open more than a ¼ turn, if still a problem lower the ignition advance at 0 throttle from 1750 thru 3500 rpm on the main map as much as needed (i.e from 13 to 32 to 8 to 22)"

Already tried the air bleeds, but they were already closed already. Next is throttle body sync then tweaking the map if needed. I only ride on track so it's not as bothersome as it may be on the street.
 

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I had an MV Agusta F4 1000S, 2005, that had a similar issue. I had the throttle bodies synchronized, they were WAY OFF, and like magic the bike was instantly awesome. Yes I know different animal, but a sync made a big difference....
 

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I had an MV Agusta F4 1000S, 2005, that had a similar issue. I had the throttle bodies synchronized, they were WAY OFF, and like magic the bike was instantly awesome. Yes I know different animal, but a sync made a big difference....
Yep, ONE of the throttle plates wasn't closing all the way.
 

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Jag,
Didn't you just have the heads off when you sucked in a guts full of dirt?
Is this when you had the reflash done?
How did you get the ignition timing adjusted?
I went for the Microtec as tuning that way is a true custom map and it can do a hell of lot more than just spark and fuel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did have the heads redone, back in April - valves reseated & general cleanup of carbon deposits & rubbish. It was running beautifully when I got it back, but I've put around 4000km on it since then.

I had previously had the same problem - i.e. the running on - before the heads were redone, but the same guy had sorted it fairly well. Then, it was fine after the head rebuild - until a few weeks ago. Which makes me wonder about the throttle plates diagnosis, as it hasn't been a consistent problem.

Still, I"ll pass on these suggestions to my mechanic & see what he makes of them.

thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
An update on this - and not in a good way. There have now been 4 attempts to cure this problem - 2 by Brad and 2 by Motologic. In a very specific sense the problem has largely been dealt with - there is some slight uptick in revs still when you grab the clutch in 2nd, but it's now minimal.

The problem is the compromises that have been made to achieve this. It seems clear that the underlying problem has still not been found and that what has been done effectively just treats the symptoms. I say this because the bike now has an uneven idle, won't run cleanly at low (say, sub 3k) revs and has been set up so rich that it used 3/4L more to get the 160km from Orobost to Bombala than my mate's 1198Corse did - even though we were on each other's back wheel the whole way.

Apparently Darryl has cleaned out a lot of crap from the stepper motor located in the throttle bodies that apparently controls revs on the over-run (& hence engine braking) and has obviously played around with mixture etc. But he doesn't seem to be very clear on where to go next with this.

Any further thoughts much appreciated - I have to say I'm losing patience with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A suggestion has just come to me via a Canberra Ducati mechanic a mate uses - wanted to see if this sounds plausible. He says the same switch at the clutch lever that tells the ECU the clutch is in and allows the bike to start in gear also affects the fuelling map - so that you'll get some fuel going in to the cylinders on the over-run to limit engine braking, but this will stop when the clutch is in. Thus, if this switch is out of adjustment and not activating, you might get my symptom arising.

I checked and my switch only clicks with the clutch lever right in at the bars - which it basically never is in use, b/c I like a short lever pull, so adjust it that way. So it seems plausible on the face of it.

Any thoughts gents?/
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Indeed. Thanks for that. Though what will my Duc specialist mechanic say when I tell him it is confirmed by a Suzuki forum???? ;-)
 
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