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see how to set the belt tension with no tools!!!

111K views 34 replies 18 participants last post by  DaveS 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
see how to set the belt tension with no special tools!!!

Finally, after a couple of months since I had this idea, I made a report so you guys can follow and do it yourselves!!!!

The principle is to put each cyl @ tdc end of the compression stroke when the cams are @ rest and somehow check the slack on the belt......this is how you can do it yourself without any fancy tools and be pretty close to factory specs:

First, remove everything needed to get to the belt covers and remove them, then remove the coils and spark plugs.

Second, align the green dot in the layshaft pulley with the mark in the clutch cover, put a screwdriver through the spark plug hole and rotate the crank (bike on 6th gear, the rear tire in the air) back and forth to make sure you are @ tdc, the cam's slots should be aligned with the head surface to make sure they're @ rest and you are @ tdc on the final of the compression stroke.

Third, mark the cam's pulleys to know your front cyl cam timing alignment marks, it'll look like this.......(layshaft pulley is already marked from factory, the cam's pulleys I did without).......

see pics 1, 2, 3.

now you can remove the belt to do your valve adjustment by unloosing the 12mm nut on the eccentric adjuster and removing it or readjust the belt (will show you later)

Fourth, find tdc on the rear cyl with the screwdriver through the spark plug hole but make sure you are @ the end of the comp stroke (cams @ rest, cams slots will look exactly like on the front cyl, cam's slots align with the head surface, shaft pulley will be approx 1/4 of turn away from green dot), mark them, this will be your rear cyl cam timing alignment marks.......it'll look like this...

see pics 4, 5, and 6.

now you can remove the belt to do your valve adjustment by unloosing the 12mm nut on the eccentric adjuster and removing it or readjusting the belt.

Fifth, to adjust the belt we'd need a hertz reader (should be @ 100hz, not lower than 90) so I figured if I can adjust it with the proper tool and then measure somehow the slack on the belt It'd be pretty accurate, so after trying different methods I came up with the perfect tool, a 10 mm wrench!!!!!

So the idea is to centre the tool in the middle and push up and down on the belt to check the tension, It'll look like this........

see pics 7, 8, and 9.

After adjusting the belts with the wrench method I rechecked them with the Hz reader..........

see pic 10.

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Sixth, if you removed the belts you'll have to do the rear cyl first, align the timing marks, then put the belt, then the adjuster and the 12mm nut with its washer, then put a big flat screwdriver between the nut of the adjuster and the ID ring to rotate it and tension the belt and gently tighten the nut (this will allow you to have some tension and readjust it as needed).
Once you get to the desired tension then torque the nut to 26NM but hold the adjuster @ the same time (it might twist and you'll have to start over with the adjustment).

Before you put it all back together rotate the engine slow by hand to make sure you didn't miss the alignment marks, it should turn over smoothly without any problems.

Seventh put it back together and go for a test ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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#33 ·
Follow the maintenance schedule in the owners manual. If you can not confirm what has been done then you should do it. You can download the owners manual from Ducati (it's not easy to find but its there).

No you don't have to replace belts when you do the valve/shims but that is typically when you do both as you have it all open. Keep in mind you are checking the valves first you might not need to adjust. On the Belts I would not go with exact fit and I would not trust a meter for tension, I'd also go back in after 100 miles after you tension them and check again. I did not do tension them correctly and was too lazy to check and lost a belt at a TD and destroyed the engine. Belts and valve/shims are not a novice job....
 
#35 ·
I have been through all this but in the end I just use the twist it method on the longest run,twist the belt and you should not be able to turn it 90 deg but 45 deg is ok,I have only done one belt change and run it over 5000km since so think it works,also the ST3 I have has a hole in the head where you put a special tool(5mm allen wrench)which holds the cam in place while you change the belt,I was bracing for a tension filled session for the first belt change, but once I was told about these tricks it was quite easy.
Valve setting is a bit harder though
 
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