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From what I've written in my posts, it is evident that I am no authority on this subject. The thought that comes to my mind regarding the vertical cylinder, is to wonder if you have changed your TDC as is shown in the video I mentioned. There is (was ?) also a good current thread on this on the other site. There it advises to turn the motor forward in the usual direction of motion, 270 degrees rather than back 90 degrees as the video suggests.
 

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I was turning it forward 1 full turn from TDC. I messed with it long enough to get it set finally.
 

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One more question, I'm about to do the 15k service my own,
Let's say I get the cam belt lock tool,
Do I still need the engine turning tool to rotate the engine back 90* like the vid said?
Thank you very much for tips and hints.
Also, along with my other thread, has anyone done a valve adjustment themselves?
Could you help me out with hints and tips on this? Cause I think the task is hard and require an engine drop, I assumed. And my passion could possibly outweigh my talents on doing this valve adjustment myself
 

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Just been going over this thread as I am nearly ready for belt change. Has been very informative and will probably do belt changes myself along with valve clearance checks.
 

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hello, i had a question before i start on this the coming weekend. I was a little confused on TDC on the vertical belts? Im looking at the cams and the "T" is different( i mean upsidedown) compared to ducatitechs vid. Reading the comments on youtube others have also noticed this as well? Wanted to confirm the pic @ TDC at comp?

Thanks ahead!!!
 

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Make yourself aware of the fundamentals of a four-stroke engine. Every SECOND TDC has the same cam timing.
That is - four 'strokes' (up and down movements of the piston) - which equals two revolutions of the crankshaft for a complete cycle.
This alternating function at TDC is facilitated by the cams running at half engine speed, so the 'other' TDC is different.
Hope this helps you get a grasp of it.

:)
 

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okay cool, soo the next question regards to the 90 vs 270 degree turn. since i dont have a crank tool, ill be putting it in 6th gear and spinning. I'm sure i'm just overthinking it, but worried how much to spin the tires or how much the cams should turn to reach tdc.
 

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Of course how far you have to turn the wheel to rotate the engine varies according to which gear you have engaged. Half a turn of the cams will equal equal one revolution of the crankshaft.

And to the enquiry about valve adjustment - no, you do not need to drop the engine. But there is a fair bit of dismantling involved. Preferable to remove all the front fairings, tank and airbox, to give full access.

The oil radiator can just hang down, and the coolant radiator can be positioned around to the LHS of the bike without draining it. Then removing the cambelt covers and top cam covers will give you access for the valve job.

Anyone attempting the valve adjustment for the first time should know that there are two oil drain back holes, which are big enough to swallow a valve-retaining clip, particularly on the rear head (where they point upwards).

They should be blocked before any clips are removed..
 

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It is necessary to do valve adjustment after belt replecment?
Also my 848 have 42k KM. Do i need to replace only belts or rollers too? And something else more?
 

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It is necessary to do valve adjustment after belt replecment?
Also my 848 have 42k KM. Do i need to replace only belts or rollers too? And something else more?
Follow the maintenance schedule in the owners manual. If you can not confirm what has been done then you should do it. You can download the owners manual from Ducati (it's not easy to find but its there).

No you don't have to replace belts when you do the valve/shims but that is typically when you do both as you have it all open. Keep in mind you are checking the valves first you might not need to adjust. On the Belts I would not go with exact fit and I would not trust a meter for tension, I'd also go back in after 100 miles after you tension them and check again. I did not do tension them correctly and was too lazy to check and lost a belt at a TD and destroyed the engine. Belts and valve/shims are not a novice job....
 

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I have been through all this but in the end I just use the twist it method on the longest run,twist the belt and you should not be able to turn it 90 deg but 45 deg is ok,I have only done one belt change and run it over 5000km since so think it works,also the ST3 I have has a hole in the head where you put a special tool(5mm allen wrench)which holds the cam in place while you change the belt,I was bracing for a tension filled session for the first belt change, but once I was told about these tricks it was quite easy.
Valve setting is a bit harder though
 
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