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Discussion Starter #1
I have been reading up about what the servo exactly does and all I want to know is that:
Does actually running the servo/flap help the bike idle a bit higher and start better by creating back pressure when it is partially closed. My bike ideals really sluggishly and was wondering if this would exactly help instead of doing a DDS/reflash etc...

Also, it seems that my bike did not come with a Lamda sensor and is disconnected on my bike with the o2 sensor hole plugged with a screw. Should I be running this? I don't get an error on the dash for this.

Also, what other ways are there to have the servo cables disconnected and trick the computer into thinking it is still there. I know they have eliminators out there but I wanted to try putting a plate there to trick it. Anyone try it? I wish there were a few more pics

http://www.ducati.org/forums/how-tos/2910-disabling-exhaust-valve-no-cel-pics.html
 

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The flap is a development used on cars for a long time. The whole premise is to help generate midrange at a lower RPM, whilst allowing the bike to have cam/timing setup for higher RPM power delivery AND still meet emissions.

The O2 sensors are not required for the bike to run IF the ECU has had them turned off. The "racing" DP ECU doesn't need the O2 sensors for instance.

I believe you can simply disconnect the motor drive and zip tie it to the bike somewhere else and the bike still runs fine.

But the stock exhaust is heavy and not quite big enough. So a lot of people just upgrade their entire exhausts rather then messing with the stocker. 848/1098/1198 exhausts are becoming cheaper and cheaper as a result of the bikes being discontinued, so just gotta look around.
 

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The exhaust valve is only there to meet EPA noise restrictions, wont affect power and closes @ around 4000 rpm and opens back up @ around 5000 rpm since the EPA test is on 3rd gear @ 4500 rpm.

If the lambda sensors are disconnected and no engine light is displayed then is on open loop mode, what set up do you have, what bike is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The exhaust valve is only there to meet EPA noise restrictions, wont affect power and closes @ around 4000 rpm and opens back up @ around 5000 rpm since the EPA test is on 3rd gear @ 4500 rpm.

If the lambda sensors are disconnected and no engine light is displayed then is on open loop mode, what set up do you have, what bike is it?
Its an 08 1098s....what do you mean by open loop mode?

I was wondering if the servo will also control the bikes idle since I figure that it would be partially closed and create some back pressure.

Right now it is fully open.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anyone have any luck with disabling the servo with no CEL as shown in that link or have any ideas of what kind of load I can put on the servo so there is no CEL, or should I just buy a eliminator and wait another 3 weeks to get here. h
 

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Court Jester
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Much easier to just remove it, install the Duc.EE.

And no it does not effect the idle when removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you guys think I can just put any kind of metal plate there to trick the servo/ecu? It seems like many people have done it but I just don't know if it has to be a specific length, since I do not want to damage the servo.

From the other thread, it seems like all that plate does is stop the servo from rotating after a certain point
 

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Court Jester
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Do you guys think I can just put any kind of metal plate there to trick the servo/ecu? It seems like many people have done it but I just don't know if it has to be a specific length, since I do not want to damage the servo.

From the other thread, it seems like all that plate does is stop the servo from rotating after a certain point

People did it before the Duc.ee was an option and the cost was prohibitive. I'd suggest pming one of the folks that did and see if they can help you if you are hell bent on doing this :)

You can also buy the cut piece of ebay.

Ducati 1198 1098 848 Servo Plate Kit | eBay
 

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I removed the valve permanently by cutting it out and took away all of the mounting hardware. Didn't notice a big difference in performance. The bike seems a bit smoother at mid-range and definitely sounds a lot better (especially during over-run).

I use a flat piece of metal and made my own servo adapter. You just got to make sure the plate doesn't rotate or come loose when in action. Go for it and give it a try. You won't damage anything if you use common sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I removed the valve permanently by cutting it out and took away all of the mounting hardware. Didn't notice a big difference in performance. The bike seems a bit smoother at mid-range and definitely sounds a lot better (especially during over-run).

I use a flat piece of metal and made my own servo adapter. You just got to make sure the plate doesn't rotate or come loose when in action. Go for it and give it a try. You won't damage anything if you use common sense.
You have any pictures and maybe dimensions or simple instructions? Yeah I don't really want to wait 2-3 more weeks for anything else if this is a simple fix
 
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