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Discussion Starter #1
Morning my Ducatistas'

New to the family, and so far enjoying it.
I'll get to the point and shall get back soon with footage.

Basically, it seems under harder throttle, and aggressive full open throttle, the bike seems to (out of nowhere) over-rev for a split moment before the bike continues on through the rev range.
It reacts immediately when I get on it hard (takes off and responds as you'd expect) and then during that increasing RPMs, the bike stops pulling hard and gets this "over-rev sound" for a moment before the bike continues back into accelerating.

Not sure if the bike has bad clutch, or at least, going bad (28000klm on the bike).
Have heard it could be fuel (or pump / filter) though I feel it's not.
Have heard it could HAVE a slipper clutch (i'm not sure how they work but i don't see the benefit in losing acceleration. Also don't think slipper clutches were intended to do this anyway) - please explain if you want.

Also heard it could be the electrics in the bike interfering.
Its the Ducati 1200 S (2015) and i have had it in touring mode for a while.
Is this a common issue on the bike?
I've only put about 2500klm on it since having it and i have a 3yr warranty left still..

Any and all feedback is appreciated :love:
 

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It's easier to sense a slipping clutch if you get into top gear and, from about 4,000 rpm (so it won't bog down), give it wide open throttle.
 

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Court Jester
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I had this problem took forever to solve, it was an aftermarket clutch slave.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's easier to sense a slipping clutch if you get into top gear and, from about 4,000 rpm (so it won't bog down), give it wide open throttle.
It definitely doesn't slip if i'm in top gear and give it FOT. It's only happening in 1st - 3rd and at revs higher than about 3-4k..

Thanks for the info mate :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had this problem took forever to solve, it was an aftermarket clutch slave.
So it was a clutch issue at the end of the day? Can you elaborate on this a bit?
Was this an easy thing to fix? Do it yourself? Do you think this should be a job covered in the warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Where is your foot? could you be pressing/bumping the shifter a little? Maybe a false, false neutral?

Rex
I did consider this at first but upon being very aware of my foot placement, I just don't think this is the issue.
It's not behaving like a false neutral, in that i don't need to touch the gear shift to get it to engage the gear correctly.

It literally pulls hard till (xRPM) and then momentarily stops accalerating and the engine over revs a little, and then the bike gains momentum and pulls up through the remaining rev range.
It's a first for me so i'm a little hesitant to be hard on it in the interim
 

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Re reading the original post and your reply to me.
I think.. Well first let me say I KNOW I am no guru...
But I think it is something to do with the clutch. Not the "Slipper" part.
Possibly the transmission.
Unless the chain is so loose it could slip teeth which you should have noticed upon looking and would certainly not be what seems to be relatively smooth issue.

No Nanny systems should make it over rev for a moment. They usually cut fuel or spark for control, or apply brakes (not too sure on bikes. Cars do all 3) Although you did not mention if a light came on on the display... Which will happen if the DTC engages

I cannot think of any time anything to do with a fuel pump could make it over rev either. I mean nothing in the fuel delivery would be connected in any way to the disengagement of the drive line. If the pump slowed you would slow. If it over pumped you would accelerate.

Does it get loose? could it be wheel spin? I doubt that could happen and stop as quick as you say unless you had a leak onto the rear tire in only very specific scenario.
You could test that by changing the DTC setting.

I am betting clutch.
You asked above if the slave cylinder should be a warranty issue. He mentioned aftermarket so no...
But if this is under warranty I would bring it to the dealer and say find the issue and fix it.

Rex
 

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Check that the pressure plate bearing has not seized causing the pushrod to spin.

A high rpm spinning pushrod can (via friction) overheat the slave cylinder piston and adjacent hydraulic fluid - causing the expanding fluid behind the slave to push the on pressure plate and momentarily reduce the preload on the clutch springs - until the resulting fluid pressure can be relieved at the master cylinder and sent back to the reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Check that the pressure plate bearing has not seized causing the pushrod to spin.

A high rpm spinning pushrod can (via friction) overheat the slave cylinder piston and adjacent hydraulic fluid - causing the expanding fluid behind the slave to push the on pressure plate and momentarily reduce the preload on the clutch springs - until the resulting fluid pressure can be relieved at the master cylinder and sent back to the reservoir.
Yeah... safe to say that I'm not equipped to do this stuff haah but thanks for the info. I'll have a mate take it for a spin, hopefully he has some more insight into it.
I'll be back with a video if i can capture it well enough so watch this space.

Thanks for all the responses fellas.
 

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Court Jester
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So it was a clutch issue at the end of the day? Can you elaborate on this a bit?
Was this an easy thing to fix? Do it yourself? Do you think this should be a job covered in the warranty?
Shazzam could explain it better, but basically the after market clutch slave that made it easier to pull but was not allowing the plates to fully engage.

I could get very close with just adjusting he clutch handle and on the street it would act like it was fine, but when I got to the track and was aggressive it would slip every time.
 
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