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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have read a couple of recent posts here where people are asking how to remove their swingarm...

This is a snippet from a larger project video where I relocated the rear brake caliper bracket pin and completely removed and repaired my swingarm after I discovered that it was cracked. The full video also shows you how I reinstalled the swingarm.

In the meantime--until the full video is completed and posted here--I thought this might be helpful for some of you.

DUCATI SWINGARM PIVOT TOOL ALTERNATIVE:


Full URL: https://youtu.be/irURBtviaqA

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Perfect!!!
 

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Yep mine wasn't moving like that I think I had the swing arm cocked... or the bolt was seized.
 

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Yep, shock unloaded, chain removed and of course, the rear brake (which we didn't see), whole thing pops right off.

I like the use of stands on the rear sets, thats the trick I always have used and it works great. ;)
 

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It takes a brave man to replace a solid steel swingarm pivot rod with a titanium tube — unless, of course, you've done the stress analysis yourself.
 

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It takes a brave man to replace a solid steel swingarm pivot rod with a titanium tube — unless, of course, you've done the stress analysis yourself.
Do you know what the steel is in the OEM pivot rod? As you already know, not all steels are created equal ;)...if it's something mild like 304 stainless or just some low grade mild carbon steel, i'm sure the Titanium tube would be just fine as a replacement. Of course, other good options would be A-286 or 17-4 steel....both stainless, with good corrosion properties, but strong as shit! They come at a hefty price though...
 
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Again, Shazaam's concerns are valid, as ever (if a little conservative). Worth posing the question though, as of course none of us are in the position to carry out comparative load and tensile tests.

But I can put minds at rest by saying I have 'done the experiment' and have covered tens of thousands of miles without issue with my Ti swing-arm pin (and engine mounting bolts, caliper and disc bolts, all suspension pivots etc. etc.).

And it easily slipped right out when I did my recent dismantle. I was able to leave all my rear suspension assembled.
 

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Just to clarify on the bravery angle - the stock swing-arm pin on the 1X98 series is hollowed out to the same extent as the titanium replacement.

If you read up on TPO's website they go to considerable trouble with the finishing of the hollow bore of their pin, which they claim enhances its strength compared to the drilled bore of the stock pin.

So not much bravery required! Mind you I did feel a bit nervous first time out with their beautiful, incredibly light Tennalum front axle, and Braketech's CMC disc rotors.

But after so many pleasurable, trouble-free miles I don't worry anymore.

Except that the buttons on my discs are starting to wear clearance..

:(
 

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But I can put minds at rest by saying I have 'done the experiment' and have covered tens of thousands of miles without issue with my Ti swing-arm pin (and engine mounting bolts, caliper and disc bolts, all suspension pivots etc. etc.).
Respect!
 

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Well there you go! No more worries! :D....usually you can't go wrong with Titanium, other than your bank account will take a hit! ;)
 

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Yes, the larger parts are not cheap, due to the expense of the raw material.

I think my swing-arm pin and bolt cost me about $400 here! And mine came without a washer, which I had to manufacture in aluminium (and get anodised)!

If you read up on TPO's engine-mounting bolts, they claim they can be done up to higher tension, which improves the stiffness of your frame, particularly on the plane of suspension loads. They aren't so dear.

So not only lighter, but a stiffer frame as well! Gotta love that. TPO can feed the addiction..

:eek:
 
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