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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, here goes. I'm in dire need of assistance right now...

I have a 2006 Ducati 999 Base model with 8,000 miles. Termignoni Half Exhaust, and Ducati Performance clutch plate. High-Cap Battery cable mod. Also, a Shorai 18A battery. Those are the only mods.

This bike has had a myriad of problems. Most of which I've managed to fix myself.

1: The bike wouldn't run past 6500 rpm after 15-20 minutes of riding. A problem I hear many members are having...

The fix: I had to clean out the tank, fuel filter, AND the PRE FILTER which resides at the base of the fuel pump assembly. Also put in Denso Iridium sparkplugs. The dealer could never ever fix my problem. Couldn't even replicate it. Said I didn't know how to ride it.

2: The bike would shriek, graunch and groan, catch and release on take-off, and hard deceleration. (Barnett Clutch Pack)

The fix: Black lithium grease on all the clutch friction plates overnight. Let em dry. Ride the bike around the block a bit, then clean ALL of the plates with brake cleaner. Super buttery smooth clutch action. Better than stock.

3: The bike wouldn't start because the starter sprag was broken. So, the motor would spin freely without catching and attempting to start.

The fix: Pop off the alternator cover, remove rotor bolt, replace the spring inside.

I've managed to do that stuff on my own, but after fixing the sprag, the bike no longer starts...

As of now, my bike will turn over, but extremely slowly (and no ignition attempts either). Like something is holding it back, or maybe the rotor bolt was torqued too high?? I set it to 270nm with oil on the washer, and red Loctite in the threads.

I've tried starting the bike with no sparkplugs or cap on. Guess what? the motor spins smoothly and you can SEE both pistons moving up and down. No fluids seem to be coming out or anything. As soon as I reinstall the plugs? NOTHING. Just super slow turning, and no actual cranking.

Would over tightening the alternator rotor nut cause something like this? Or did I flood the engine and get hydrolocked?? Perhaps bad timing due to the flywheel assembly not being installed properly with the right marks? Tried a stock Lead Acid battery too, and charging both overnight. No dice.

I just don't get. Please help me out if you can. It's my only transportation right now, and I 100% cannot afford a dealer... I'm this close to tossing this bike into the bay!
 

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And also that spring repair is only useful if the pawls on the Sprague aren't gouged and worn. Easier to just get a new one or a lightly used one.
 

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Maybe a complete overhaul is calling - with a new mod computer. Costly sure , time consuming no doubt , sure beats foolin around with everything else and coming up empty handed. At least with a complete overhaul you've covered all your bases.

:banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for the quick responses guys.

Joeii, I thought about that... the sprag being installed backwards. Spoke to a few local Ducati techs, and they say that if the sprag was on backwards, the motor would free wheel while starting. It most likely wouldn't be so slow, tough, cranking. Also, thought about the battery. I mean, I HOPE that's just the problem. But I have a bad feeling that it's not.

Neo, :( I really can't afford that kind of overhaul. I mean, the bike used to start every time (albeit, poorly), and ran beautifully. Then the weather got chilly, and it stopped starting. Then, on a random occurrence she started UP. After a few minutes of amazing riding, I turned the bike off to see if it'd start up again. NOTHING. And it hasn't worked since then. This was two months ago! Hilarity ensues...


So, I'm about crack open the crank case today. I will undo that ungodly flywheel nut, and double, no, triple check if it matches the diagram on DucatiOmaha's, microfiche. That's literally all I can think of at this point. That's all that can be messed up in there. Any other thoughts on this?
 

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it really could just be something as simple as the cold. Cold weather will take it out of a battery if you have not had it on a trickle charge. Once a battery is discharged it will also start to lose the acidity and can actually freeze. If that's happened the battery is toast. Cold inhibits the reaction even in a good battery.

Perhaps before you go to town on the engine take the battery indoors and get it on a charge. It may be enough to get it started ( providing of course that is the issue ). Whether it will hold a charge is another matter. To me though it really sounds that at the very least you have a dud battery.

If you don't mind doing the work though there is no harm in double checking your work. I was confident I knew what I was doing replacing the short block in a BMW M3. Suffice to say it went tits up ;)



Edit://Sorry. After typing all that I just re-read your post saying you have tried a battery. teach me to jump the gun :.
 

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It could be possible the crank position sensor was damaged, not reconnected or went tits up after reinstalling the alternator cover. I had one fail on my ST2 a few years back and it gave me fits! The engine would run fine for about fifteen miles and quit when it got hot, leaving me to sit on the side of the road for 10 minutes or so to cool down. Then start and go for maybe 10 minutes when it got hot again and shut down. Over and over until I got where I was going.
It has a shim and air gap that must remain or it will get ground down by the crank gear. In my case the sensor swelled up and split. If the sensor cannot be removed after the retaining bolt has been removed then it is swollen and faulty as was my case. There is a proper ohm value for it but I don't remember the value.
As for cranking speed I have always felt that my 999s cranked slow. Also, I never use the choke lever when starting as it will flood. No choke, no throttle. Starts every time.
Hope this helps.
 

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1: The bike wouldn't run past 6500 rpm after 15-20 minutes of riding. A problem I hear many members are having...
Fuel filter, very common issue as you pointed out. EVERY fuel injected motorcycle will have the same problem, its not just a Ducati issue.

2: The bike would shriek, graunch and groan, catch and release on take-off, and hard deceleration. (Barnett Clutch Pack)
Thats because nobody had probably cleaned out the clutch assembly. The dust builds up over time and it can cause all sorts of odd-ball noises and slipping. The solution is to simply high pressure air the whole assembly. Cleaning agents tend to make the clutch slip.

3: The bike wouldn't start because the starter sprag was broken. So, the motor would spin freely without catching and attempting to start.
It only goes in one way, it matches gears with another set of them, so its pretty self explanatory.

As of now, my bike will turn over, but extremely slowly (and no ignition attempts either). Like something is holding it back, or maybe the rotor bolt was torqued too high?? I set it to 270nm with oil on the washer, and red Loctite in the threads.
What is a rotor bolt? There isn't a single bolt in that motor which should anywhere near 270nm.

This is a very common issue when the voltage is low due to a bad ground. Sometimes that bad ground is actually in the starter motor itself. I remember having to pull apart one of my starter motors and fix this very problem.

The reason why your sprague failed is most likely because the starter motor was stuck on at one point. That would account for the reason why it failed and why the starter motor itself has a problem.

When you pull the spark plugs, you loose all the compression, so the motor moves freely. Thats why the starter can turn it over...
 

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What is a rotor bolt? There isn't a single bolt in that motor which should anywhere near 270nm.


I believe the OP is referring to the "Injection generator rotor nut" M24x1, 270Nm as shown in the service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The rotor bolt is the flywheel retaining nut. I guess the names are sort of interchangeable. From what I've read everywhere and heard from dealers, they all say 270nm. Not ft/lbs , in case you were thinking of that. But yeah, it's to spec I believe.

Ok, I double checked the orientation of flywheel in relation to the crankshaft. Now, I'm doubly confused. I read a thread tutorial about starter sprag repair, and the photos show the flywheel dot lined up with the long crankshaft indentation. BUT, there is a dot on the crankshaft gear too!! Do I line the flywheel to that instead?

I'm wondering how the CPS could have been damaged though. If it did, I don't mind buying a replacement, but timing is of the essence right now. Is there any way to test the CPS for a malfunction? I'm not getting any error codes at all....

Thanks again everyone...
 

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I know it's been suggested before, but have you ruled out the battery? If it's cold where you are lithium batteries don't like that. On the last cold track day I did mine wouldn't start. I had to turn the ignition on and leave it a few minutes to "get the juices flowing" and then it would start. Sounds backwards from what you'd think with a low battery, but it works
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, i tried jump starting it and bump starting. That didn't work. And the battery CAN turn the starter on its own too. I wonder if the sprag being on in reverse can actually cause this problem. See, it wasn't as simple as puttting the new spring on. Once I undid the circlip that holds it in, and pulled the sprag out, all the little srpags fell out!!!!! So, I had to guess the orientation of left or right. Once I put it all back together, the flywheel could only spin in one direction as it should. And I do believe it to be spinning in the correct direction. If it weren't wouldn't the sprag allow the entire motor to free wheel when starting..? Kind of like the symptom of a BROKEN sprag spring right?
 

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Yep, put it in backwards and it most likely will fall apart. It only works one way, thats its function... so when the motor runs, it doesn't put all that energy into the starter motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, I checked the sprag again, and it broke because I've installed the individual sprags incorrectly. Oh well. The spring disitegrated. So, now i'd like to get a complete unit, used. Does anyone know how far back the sprag clutch unit is interchangeable with the Ducati 999/749? There are very few for sale, and I'm looking for the least expensive one that will fit. Thanks!!!
 

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Try:
Gotham Cycles
Rubber Side Up

And these guys on Ebay: shoot them a message.
re-cycle1
*desmolition*
valtermotousa
imperialsportbikes2
estatecycles1
ducati_depot
 

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I suggest you buy a new sprag, they have issues with a weak spring weld, no sense taking chances on a used one. While your in there DO look to replace with 2nd hand spares the electric start gear, intermediate gear and starter motor sprocket. Go to ducati omaha, they have a great free parts lookup function, many duc models use the same internal starting gears. And last, also replace with new parts the needle bearing. You may find the flange is damaged,it often is when the sprag goes. That you can chance 2nd hand. rubbersidedown (? name correct, ebay seller) has tons of high quality low mileage spares
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, got a complete sprag unit. It fits perfectly, and the bike attempts to turn over now. But now it screeches on each turn over!!! Double F... I'm uploading a video today. If anyone could listen to the sound, and view the clutch action, that'd be great. Almost seems like the timing is off? It's a god awful sound....

Oh, and @ 'ericjansen' from ducati ms. If you find out what the problem with that 999 was, please let us know. I have an account there, but I can't post there for some reason...
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Well folks, here the video...

Oh, I looked into the airbox and I'm not getting any fuel spray from the injectors. However, the fuel pump primes, and the relay is brand new... Is this purely timing related now? Perhaps a bad Crank Position Sensor? Would a faulty CPS prevent the injectors from spraying?
 
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