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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would it be correct to assume that if I am a rider that does not wheelie his bike or burn rubber that changing my traction control and abs settings to the most sensitive (highest) in touring mode would give me the best safest ride? Would I notice any annoying tendencies like a cut in power during hard acceleration.

I just purchased a new 2014 Monster S and I am new to Ducati. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Arthur
 

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I think the premise of your question is incorrect. Adjusting those settings as you describe will certainly activate them quicker but they won't make you safer.

Adjusting the ABS will only affect how much it cuts in during braking so won't impact your power delivery.

Traction control on full is a different story though. If you have it on the highest setting then it can cut power when you might not want it to.

I personally would rely more on my skill as a rider rather than having the electronic gizmos on full.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's what I was wondering.... Will the traction control at its highest setting effect the power delivery on a dry road. Yet still provide maximum safety in an unexpected situation or help keep the wheel down during hard acceleration.
 

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First off, traction control is different from wheelie control. They may be combined in the same system but these are two distinct areas. The Bosch ABS unit on the Ducati's actually incorporates the wheelie control (or lift control as they call it) if I recall correctly...

Setting the traction control to its highest level simply means that it will intervene earlier than on lower settings. Whether the road is dry, wet, dirty, non-existent etc. doesn't really matter on a technical level. Intervention will occur whenever the rear tire starts spinning faster than the front. Whether it is because off too much throttle control, a wet leaf, gravel is essentially irrelevant. The different levels simply determine when and how much intervention is provided. So, yes...if you are coming out of a corner and completely pin the throttle, traction control on its highest level will most likely intervene.

As to the ABS...the three levels essentially only differ in regards to the wheels it controls and whether or not it monitors front wheel lift. Level 1 only works on the front wheel and does not provide any wheelie control. Level 2 and 3 work on both wheels but in Level 2 only uncontrolled wheelies are kept in check. So, yes...setting it to Level 3 is obviously the "safest" in a technical sense.

However, as being mentioned before, if you have to rely on the electronics of your bike to ride safely, you are doing it wrong...either you bought the wrong bike or you need to think about your riding style...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info I am trying to learn as much about the bike and the electronics as possible. I feel comfortable with the bike but I am s bit of a perfectionist and need to learn it all.
 

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With that said, I have a quesion regarding the modes. On my BMW, I can choose sport/race or the forbidden slick mode which needs to be plugged in under the seat. They say you must be on the track with slick tires for that mode. Does that translate into less input from the system an more feedback from the tires to a rider who understands the dynamics of traction?

If so, I might want to run nice sticky tires on it and use that mode on the street and just be aware of the fact that the electronics are "not" there to save me. I really don't know?
 

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With that said, I have a quesion regarding the modes. On my BMW, I can choose sport/race or the forbidden slick mode which needs to be plugged in under the seat. They say you must be on the track with slick tires for that mode. Does that translate into less input from the system an more feedback from the tires to a rider who understands the dynamics of traction?

If so, I might want to run nice sticky tires on it and use that mode on the street and just be aware of the fact that the electronics are "not" there to save me. I really don't know?
I assume you're not talking about running slicks on the street?? Because that wouldn't be a good idea.
 

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Would it be correct to assume that if I am a rider that does not wheelie his bike or burn rubber that changing my traction control and abs settings to the most sensitive (highest) in touring mode would give me the best safest ride? Would I notice any annoying tendencies like a cut in power during hard acceleration.
The most sensitive settings can be jarring/disrupting to the rider unless traction is perfect. Situations like bumpy, dusty or slick roads will constantly trigger the system. This can disrupt the suspension/chassis and in extreme cases can be risky since the throttle no longer controls the rear wheel at a 1:1 ratio. All of a sudden, more throttle doesn't equate to more traction/drive forward. Get into a little trouble and need that forward momentum? Imagine yanking the throttle and getting very little drive forward... in my view, kinda scary.

There is no magic, the system doesn't give you traction.

Traction control should be setup on one of the most least disruptive settings. So it only reacts in the most extreme situations. That's what the system is designed for in the first place.
 

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With that said, I have a quesion regarding the modes. On my BMW, I can choose sport/race or the forbidden slick mode which needs to be plugged in under the seat. They say you must be on the track with slick tires for that mode. Does that translate into less input from the system an more feedback from the tires to a rider who understands the dynamics of traction?

If so, I might want to run nice sticky tires on it and use that mode on the street and just be aware of the fact that the electronics are "not" there to save me. I really don't know?
Definitely not! "Use slick mode on track only" translates to "use slick mode on track only". There's no tricks behind it. There is a reason the engineers at BMW made that mode less accessible, unlike the other 3. What it does is it turns a beast of a bike that's not very forgiving, into an even less forgiving beast...more aggressive throttle response, TC turned just about all the way down, etc.

It's never a bad idea to use sticky tires no matter where/how you ride, but there really isn't a benefit to run in slick mode on the street. High risk for nothing to gain. If I had that as a street bike, I probably wouldn't even run it in race mode on the street, probably just keep it in sport or rain.
 

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Traction control should be setup on one of the most least disruptive settings.
ummm.....:confused:....make up your mind??
 

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ummm.....:confused:....make up your mind??
I think hes saying least disruptive to that style of riding..right?
if you're hammering it around a track "safely" in good conditions you want traction to kick in if you make a mistake (jack the throtte to hard leaned over) but you dont want it to be going off all the time and disrupting your track riding at #8 DTC.
but if you're putting around town and are going straight and drive over a oil slick while you're on the throttle, you would want dtc at #8 (not being activated unless its needed for that style of riding).
even if thats not what he means, thats what i mean... :yo:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Jeez ok I am still a bit confused. Right now i will go with the default settings. I definately do not want an interuption of power when i need it. However, it would be nice to know that DTC would be there for me if I try to accelerate over an oil-slick.
 

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TC works in conjunction with lean angle. It will not kick in if you're upright...hence you can still do wheelies or a burnout. If you ride over a patch of oil that's in the middle of a turn, it most likely won't matter because your front wheel will go over it first and you'll lose the front and low-side anyway. Just set it on like 4, 5, or 6 and be done with it. You won't ever feel it, except if you ride in the rain most likely, and decide to ride somewhat aggressively in the rain.
 

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TC works in conjunction with lean angle. It will not kick in if you're upright...hence you can still do wheelies or a burnout. If you ride over a patch of oil that's in the middle of a turn, it most likely won't matter because your front wheel will go over it first and you'll lose the front and low-side anyway. Just set it on like 4, 5, or 6 and be done with it. You won't ever feel it, except if you ride in the rain most likely, and decide to ride somewhat aggressively in the rain.
TC works when the bike is upright as well .
 

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Yeah, okay, I agree. My BMW feels like a rocket in rain mode but slightly scary in sport mode and insane in race mode at the higher rpm range. But like all 4 bangers, you get much less at lower rams. Rain mode absolutely sucks down low.....it's trying to save you from skidding around on ice I guess and is trying to ride itself, assuming you are a moron. But I must say that after getting caught in a crosswind in the rain on my Triumph and feeling the bike slide all over the place, I would have welcomed that rain mode for sure.

I was thinking of using the slick mode with aggressive tires and riding conservatively just for the thrill of feeling the bike the way it was made to run, unchained. But as you say, a slight mistake with the throttle could be a big problem. I don't hit big speed on the road so it's just not much of a problem for me personally. But I'll heed your advice. You are right, the engineers get paid a lot of money to design the system, they don't play games with marketing.
 

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Don't let the term traction control deceive you. My 1198S has the standard package and at level 6 it never really 'intervened' it just seemed a tad lethargic (at the track during early season practice when it was far from warm out). All that I noticed was that the bike didn't accelerate as hard as I was anticipating it would - that and the lights flashing on the dash. I truly believe the modern electronic systems are awesome! (After 30 years riding and 10 years racing). Don't be conned into turning the system off. Go out and try it on the highest setting and then adjust down accordingly.
Having a $20K race bike I kept mine at lvl2 for the most part, and could possibly be why I had a tough time adjusting to the bike. Mind you it would constantly raise the front wheel skyward coming out of the corners (I beleive the bike goes faster when the nose stays down rather than pointing up lol).
 

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TC works when the bike is upright as well .
I don't think so...mine doesn't...go try and do a wheelie or a burnout with TC on, when you're upright. If you can do it, then it doesn't work when the bike is upright.
 

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Traction control does not discriminate...it chimes in whenever the rear overtakes the front...

Disclaimer: I have not checked every traction control that made the light of day but I would be surprised if they only would have worked at lean as it kinda defeats the overall purpose...
 

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You know that for sure? I don't know how each one works, but I know the Nemesis works in conjunction with lean angle. As I've said multiple times before...WHEELIE...BURNOUT...if you can do it, than it clearly doesn't work when upright, because it only works progressively with lean angle. Nemesis has all the info on their site where they clearly explain how it works. I've never tried a burnout (because I care for my tires), but I've done plenty of wheelies on the track with TC on settings as high as 5 and it didn't kick in. It actually does make perfect sense to me, because nobody crashes going in a straight line. The TC is needed to prevent the rear wheel from sliding when you're going through a corner, so it can potentially save you from a crash. In a straight line you don't have to worry about that, you can give it a handful of throttle and the worst you can get is a big wheelie, but TC is not for that. Wheelie control, or launch control, is meant to prevent that, but that's a different system.
 
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