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529 Posts
Here's my latest maintenance how to video. This is a relatively easy, but important preventative maintenance task.
Full URL: https://youtu.be/BHBGZ0R3yaU
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Full URL: https://youtu.be/BHBGZ0R3yaU
.
VIDEO: How to change a Motorcycle Air Filter
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1,130 Posts
Another excellent tutorial as always Chuck! You are making me miss my 848!
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310 Posts
Greta video. Also we forbid you to sell your 848 
. I did mine after watching this but decided to attempt some artistic liberties with the teardown.
Just a note from my experience with doing this recently. I was able to change mine just by removing the left side mid, air tube cover and air tube. I was able to visually inspect the internals of the airbox for build up but mine was pretty clean.
I applied the K&N grease to the filter gasket and installed it from the left side by reaching through the airbox. After that I installed the filter, left air tube with filter gasket. Once it was sealed I started the bike and verified that it was good to go and buttoned her up.
The R model of the k&N filter which I bought on Amazon came with the tube of K&N grease.
BTW folks if you don't know or haven't already done so head over to youtube and subscribe to Charles' channel he has a ton of great video there just ripe for the picking.
. I did mine after watching this but decided to attempt some artistic liberties with the teardown. Just a note from my experience with doing this recently. I was able to change mine just by removing the left side mid, air tube cover and air tube. I was able to visually inspect the internals of the airbox for build up but mine was pretty clean.
I applied the K&N grease to the filter gasket and installed it from the left side by reaching through the airbox. After that I installed the filter, left air tube with filter gasket. Once it was sealed I started the bike and verified that it was good to go and buttoned her up.
The R model of the k&N filter which I bought on Amazon came with the tube of K&N grease.
BTW folks if you don't know or haven't already done so head over to youtube and subscribe to Charles' channel he has a ton of great video there just ripe for the picking.
Joined
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6,800 Posts
Another excellent video Charles.
If I could add a couple of points..
If you are replacing with a stock air element, you really need to make a soft gasket for at least one end of the filter.
The air 'snorkels' do not meet the ends of the element tightly enough, and aren't exactly parallel, allowing grit to pass them unfiltered.
With the airbox off the bike, and working up through the hole underneath as you assemble these parts, this will become obvious.
Another thing to point out when servicing a cleanable filter is that the air is drawn from the inside out, so the element is dirty on the inside. A bit unusual..
Also, for those who fit a K&N (as I have) be aware they offer a cleaning kit, comprising a detergent cleaner and the oil. The filter can need a few hours to dry in between, so allow for that.
But the air filtration system on these bikes is one of the worst design features of the whole bike. A profound disappointment when I first investigated it.
Ridiculous amount of dismantling required to access it, plus the problem of not sealing properly. Mine only gets cleaned when I am in there for something else.
In fact it's probably overdue. Thanks for reminding me..
If I could add a couple of points..
If you are replacing with a stock air element, you really need to make a soft gasket for at least one end of the filter.
The air 'snorkels' do not meet the ends of the element tightly enough, and aren't exactly parallel, allowing grit to pass them unfiltered.
With the airbox off the bike, and working up through the hole underneath as you assemble these parts, this will become obvious.
Another thing to point out when servicing a cleanable filter is that the air is drawn from the inside out, so the element is dirty on the inside. A bit unusual..
Also, for those who fit a K&N (as I have) be aware they offer a cleaning kit, comprising a detergent cleaner and the oil. The filter can need a few hours to dry in between, so allow for that.
But the air filtration system on these bikes is one of the worst design features of the whole bike. A profound disappointment when I first investigated it.
Ridiculous amount of dismantling required to access it, plus the problem of not sealing properly. Mine only gets cleaned when I am in there for something else.
In fact it's probably overdue. Thanks for reminding me..
Joined
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310 Posts
I am very surprised some enterprising company hasn't developed an air filter that would fit inside each airtube. Not to be gross but like a tampon.Another excellent video Charles.
If I could add a couple of points..
If you are replacing with a stock air element, you really need to make a soft gasket for at least one end of the filter.
The air 'snorkels' do not meet the ends of the element tightly enough, and aren't exactly parallel, allowing grit to pass them unfiltered.
With the airbox off the bike, and working up through the hole underneath as you assemble these parts, this will become obvious.
Another thing to point out when servicing a cleanable filter is that the air is drawn from the inside out, so the element is dirty on the inside. A bit unusual..
Also, for those who fit a K&N (as I have) be aware they offer a cleaning kit, comprising a detergent cleaner and the oil. The filter can need a few hours to dry in between, so allow for that.
But the air filtration system on these bikes is one of the worst design features of the whole bike. A profound disappointment when I first investigated it.
Ridiculous amount of dismantling required to access it, plus the problem of not sealing properly. Mine only gets cleaned when I am in there for something else.
In fact it's probably overdue. Thanks for reminding me..
Joined
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310 Posts
yeah in hindsight I could see how that would kill the flow early and result in a back pressure at the entry on the intake tubes.
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6,800 Posts
Yes the 916 series had a similar idea, with a flat foam element at a 'slash' angle in the air duct to maximise the surface area, and minimise the disruption of any ram-air effect.
Many changed these to filters that fit inside the still-air box, with good results. Presumably the factory learned the same lesson while racing those models.
So T is correct - any disruption of the (small amount of) air pressure that might be created in the tubes due to forward motion would lose that benefit.
Opening out the air ducts (as many of us have) illustrates the benefit of the forced air from higher speeds. The larger opening (at the narrowest point) really gives them an improvement in the higher gears.
I suspect the DP 'race' ECU is tuned for the larger ducts of the racing (no headlights) fairing, as it needed no alteration when the ducts were opened out. It just gave it more power.
Many changed these to filters that fit inside the still-air box, with good results. Presumably the factory learned the same lesson while racing those models.
So T is correct - any disruption of the (small amount of) air pressure that might be created in the tubes due to forward motion would lose that benefit.
Opening out the air ducts (as many of us have) illustrates the benefit of the forced air from higher speeds. The larger opening (at the narrowest point) really gives them an improvement in the higher gears.
I suspect the DP 'race' ECU is tuned for the larger ducts of the racing (no headlights) fairing, as it needed no alteration when the ducts were opened out. It just gave it more power.
Joined
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529 Posts
Sorry for the delay, guys, I've been traveling a lot for work lately and haven't been on here...
Thanks, Noah--I have become attached to my 848, so yeah, maybe I should just keep it forever! (although, I wouldn't mind tapping in to some of the newer technology that's coming out on these newer models)... Glad to hear that you like the videos on my YouTube channel, I've got some new ones coming out soon that I believe many ducati.org members will find useful.Greta video. Also we forbid you to sell your 848
Just a note from my experience with doing this recently. I was able to change mine just by removing the left side mid, air tube cover and air tube. I was able to visually inspect the internals of the airbox for build up but mine was pretty clean.
I applied the K&N grease to the filter gasket and installed it from the left side by reaching through the airbox. After that I installed the filter, left air tube with filter gasket. Once it was sealed I started the bike and verified that it was good to go and buttoned her up.
The R model of the k&N filter which I bought on Amazon came with the tube of K&N grease.
BTW folks if you don't know or haven't already ne so head over to youtube and subscribe to Charles' channel he has a ton of great video there just ripe for the picking.
No I do not (yet) have a video that shows how to remove the street fairings, but I have thought about doing one on many occasions. That can be one intimidating task if you've never done it before. Plus, if you follow along exactly the way the service and repair manual tells you how to do it, you end up doing a few steps that are not necessary, unless you actually need to take the fairing completely apart. I will try to put a video together showing how to remove and reinstall the fairings when I go through that process myself in a few weeks...
Yes, I understand exactly what you mean. Im interested in taking off the headlight for the projector mod but worried about how to remove that. Also how to take the tank off to repaint it. Im sure I could figure it out but watching a video makes understanding the process much easier.
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