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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
or at least suspect. There is the whole 230nm called out for the 848 rear axle which is entirely too much. This weekend my oil drain plug was on so tight that the allen socket broke in it. (this after torquing it to spec after the last oil change) Now I'm left with trying to figure out how the heck I'm going to get this plug off. :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

I'm religious about following torque numbers. I've never had as many problems as the 1098 #'s has given me.
 

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Did you heat sync the drain plug? Put a cold drain plug in a warm motor and you get what you describe. Has happened to many of people. Easiest way to remove now is to use a sharp chisel and hammer use the chisel to work a nic in the side of the drain plug and then try and use chisel and hammer to rotate the plug out. Then order the corse dynamics drain plug has a hex head with Allen key center and a rare earth magnet so it's a def upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did you heat sync the drain plug? Put a cold drain plug in a warm motor and you get what you describe. Has happened to many of people. Easiest way to remove now is to use a sharp chisel and hammer use the chisel to work a nic in the side of the drain plug and then try and use chisel and hammer to rotate the plug out. Then order the corse dynamics drain plug has a hex head with Allen key center and a rare earth magnet so it's a def upgrade.
Hey Thanks. Definitely worth a try. Funny thing is, I was trying to change the plug over to the Corse Dynamics plud :)
 

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When you put the new plug in with a new crush washer.

Just tighten it steadily/smoothly until you feel the crush washer yield and go softer.
Then keep going a little bit more until you feel it firm up again and get tight. Then stop at that point.

This method has worked perfectly for me for over 30 years, and never had one fall out in service, and you'll find they're plenty tight enough when it comes time to undo them at the next oil change;)
 

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This comes up a lot. As other members point out - torque values are meaningless if you have parts at a different temperature.

As the engine is usually warm when you drop the oil, and you effectively 'chill' the plug when you wash it in solvent, and blow it off with an air line, you are fitting a very cold part to a warm (expanded) case.

You need to fit the sump plug finger-tight, and tighten it a few minutes later when the temperatures are equalised. And don't forget the final tighten..

This process applies to every make of aluminium engine.
 

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The rear axel I never torque to more then 100 foot pounds. I think its obscene how much torque they want you to use.

I also don't change my oil with a warm/hot motor, this avoids torquing issues entirely.

Gotta be very careful with the testastretta evo drain plugs. I just tighten until the crush washer gets crushed and thats it. I remember one day trying Ducati spec and being scared of over tightening it.
 

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I've never been able to figure why they have the 230nm number in the 848 manual--and to top that off, it says both sides!

Eventually I just assumed it was a typeO. I always torque to 176nm on the wheel side and 156nm on the sprocket side.


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That is interesting coming from the manual. The red circle is for the 1x98 nut and the 2 yellow circles for the axle and sprocket side on the 848. Talk about confusing the issue!!
 

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That is confusing...why would they have the bigger ones in the manual for the 848??

Either way it's too much. It's 230 nm for the 1198 wheel nut and if you torque it to that spec it's a bitch to take off. The problem is if you don't torque it to that spec, you can't put the retaining clip in the hole at the edge of the axle. If you tighten just enough to be able to do that, it's a PITA to take off....even using a 2' breaker bar and having another guy helping didn't work for me. The best thing to use on that is an impact drill.
 

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I follow the torque specs on my 1098 rear axle and I can break it loose no problem. It's tough but I can always do it. My buddy has a 1098S and he can NEVER bust it loose without the pneumatic impact.

And rubbish, when I torque mine down and the clip won't go in, I just click the torque wrench once or twice and I can always find a place for the pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Either way it's too much. It's 230 nm for the 1198 wheel nut and if you torque it to that spec it's a bitch to take off. The problem is if you don't torque it to that spec, you can't put the retaining clip in the hole at the edge of the axle.
I agree. I had one heck of a time getting the rear off as well. I also torqued it to spec to fit the retaining pin.
 

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I broke an allen the first time I had to loosen the oil plug as well. I just grinded it all the way down to the washer then I was able to turn it by hand. Then replaced it with a bolt type titanium oil plug.
 
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