For what its worth about a month ago on a ride I was getting 5.2 error then 5.1 and the bike died. New regulator and battery solved the problem. No idea about ebay RR, I got an OEM one.

 

Most 1198, 1098 and 848 owners switches to the Shindengen FH020AA mosfet. Not some crappy fleebay part.

 

I am going to give the bay on a go as I have to wait for the parts to come from the states

I worked on the bike today and this is what I have found the plug was in such poor condition and clearly had a short at some stage.

I have installed a new plug and hard wired temporarily to see if this was actually my charging problem but its not

Will not be installing the new RR for a few weeks as I am going to be away for work but will keep you all informed.

 

No need to keep us informed. RR replacement has been covered extensively on this forum. Search function will give you all you need, if you still need guidance.

 

From my research across different forums, ebay (made in china) alternative regulators that are of the series type tend to fail prematurely anywhere between one month to one year after installation across difference bikes (RSV4, GSXR, 1098). The main cause is poor soldering/circuitry within, a problem which is will only be accelerated by heat from location of the regulator (ex. near manifold), climate (hot weather, stop and go traffic riding), and also when voltage draw is reduced from original design by the owner (such as installing leds, led/hid headlights, or riding without the headlights).

In contrast, OEM regulators undergo stricter quality control and therefore are more robust against conditions listed above. They last much, much longer but are not immune. Considering you can easily source an almost new regulator off parted out bikes on ebay and forums for around $50-$70, it is more cost effective to go with OEM than no-name made in china replicas for almost the same cost.

 

I have a Shindengen RR on order right now. Does anyone know the reason why a lot of guys are using the Triumph cables to install the new RR?

 

Yes. Because the Triumph cables allow plug and play operation with the three and two wiring connectors on the modern MOSFET RRs. And the cable is about $15.

By the way, look on eBay for an RR from a BMW S1000RR-I bought one for like $20. A number of other modern sport bikes use the same p/n. I don't have a list but I believe at least R1s and maybe CBR1000RR?

Anyway, do a search by the Shindengen p/n (it's around here somewhere).

 

Awesome thanks! I think I found the Triumph p/n, (T2500676). Also the closest Ducati dealer to me is also a Triumph dealer so I'll give them a call and order one.

 

Regarding the wicking from stator ;
After a week away I got home and checked the new connector I had re- terminated and sure enough clean oil coming from inside the insulation and plenty of it nearly dripping!! out the plug. I didn’t take a photo for proof but installed my new eBay rectifier/regulator but located the wiring so that the wire coming from stator was higher than where the wires come out of casing I will keep an eye on it and let you know if it has stopped the oil from travelling down to connector

 

I will definitely check for the oil wick issue and possible fixes for it when I install my new RR.

 

Ok after one ride gently covering a brake pad change also I find the Ducati without any power what so- ever it won’t even light up the dash.
Expecting it to be the r/r.

I have contacted Jason at motoelectrics

I hope this is the right guy but all the same I am asking for a new r/r though his business

The. eBay chainese burnt out across the connectors in one foul swoop

Yes there are a lot of threads on the subject but I want to share my experience

If going to buy the part from flea bay b warned
Going through EBay jasonmotoelectrix eBay for Now.

THe wires definitely wick oil From stator side im going to fit a new r/r to the exhaust servo mount.to alleviate wicking from the stator.

 

No power still at all

i have checked all the fuses and they all look good
Checked terminals all good
Battery brand new at 13.4v
30amp fuse looks good

I actually bought a new r/r from Jack at roadster cycles .com
So it will be on its way
He has been very helpful

If the regulator is stuffed I thought you should still be able to get power to the dash and fuel pump but I have nothing

Does anyone know if I am missing something
It’s got me a little concerned that I may have damaged the ecu but I don’t know :blind:

 

I don't have a 1098/1198 but I can tell you that you should have power to the bike and be able to start it and run good. I have a monster s4r and having charging issues as well. I removed my rr completely for diode testing and was still able to start my bike and ride it.

 

Yeah that's what I thought
Im now wondering if I have an issue with the key

I only have one key and it did come into contact with a strong magnet last week as I was working on a friends pool pump

Does anyone know if that would damage the keys security ability?

 

It still would turn on, the dashboard, lights and fuel pump. Just not start the bike.

So you have no power at all, whatever that means.

 

Yep I'm unsure of what's happened but all fuses look good but I've just started a new thread regarding my keys coming into contact with a strong magnet ?? Once I get the new r/r I will put it all together and start diagnosing again
I'm at work for a month so will have to wait til then
It's a bugger

 

The eBay chainese burnt out across the connectors in one foul swoop

Did you check the two relais behind/right side of the battery box?

 

I did mate they look in good shape, but I may have to source some to give it a go I swapped them over also to see if there was any joy but No love
Any idea on where to get them are they a standard easy to find part at the local auto store ?

 

No idea if you can purchase them at your local auto store. I always get my parts from oemducati.nl .

It is part number 54140101A

When you turn the key there is no power at all? ( checked kill switch)

 

Yeah there is no power at all I’ve never had an issue before

If kill switch is on don’t you still get power to dash but bike just won’t start?

 

Take the bike to someone who knows how to use a voltmeter. Just blindly changing parts is really silly... And you were the one that was willing to spend $50 on a Chucati part vs $220 for oem. Paying someone else will be cheaper in your case.

 

I do know how to use a multi meter and have used it each step of the diagnosis i am looking for feedback as I am not a motorcycle mechanic just a guy who likes to work on his own bikes thanks for your helpful insight in advance