Without a ride height tool you are just making a guess. If I were you talk to Brian at podium racing and pick up one of his tools. From there he will help you set the geometry to where it should be.

 

I have a DUCATI ride height adjuster. It's built into the bike by DUCATI.

Everyone's solution is to sell you another piece of stuff. No one knows how to adjust what comes on the bike.

I just want to adjust what I have.

 

Hi Pilot,

I want to just mention that D848 was referring to the measuring tool, as opposed to the rod itself. Chassis geometry is developed by the numbers, as opposed to actual feel(like suspension).

I would be glad to help you out if you want to give me a call.

 

Make one like this.

If you haven’t made any changes yet to your rear spring preload, or adjusted your chain tension then you are still set-up to factory settings. So, following the first rule of making suspension adjustments, you should first measure your initial settings and record all changes.

This is the only time (without using the ride height tool) where you can establish a (factory) pseudo-datum at a different location on your particular bike’s bodywork to which you can measure the distance to the rear axle. Another same-model bike will have a different dimension to this datum even though both bikes have the correct ride height.

Once you have established a new bodywork location (unique to your bike) from which to measure ride height, then you can measure all future changes to ride height from this datum. So you won’t need to use the Ducati ride height tool as a reference datum. Again, this measurement is made with the suspension fully extended. You should also continue to record the changes to the tie-rod length to make it easier to return to your previous settings, if need be.

Chassis Geometry - Rear Ride Height

Raising the ride height has a similar handling effect as making the steering head angle steeper. The head angle change does it in a different way by shortening the trail dimension instead of tipping the bike on its nose. The head angle should only be altered after all the other changes have been made and you are comfortable on the bike. If the bike displays any instability problems they need to be sorted out first, as this steering head angle change will magnify these characteristics.

The handling is very sensitive to rear height changes. Small changes can drastically change the way the bike turns and holds a line. As a rule, the more rear ride height you add, the faster the bike will turn. The ride height should be set to make the bike turn quickly, not fall into a corner, or require rider input to hold a line. A high rear end and a low front effectively give the front forks a steeper angle. This results in a quicker (some say slightly nervous) steering, especially when braking hard. You may also feel a tendency of the bike to oversteer (the rear wheel looses traction and slides before the front.) There is also a tendency to stand up more while braking in corners.

The rear ride height adjustment sets the distance between the rear axle and the tail piece. The only time you should have to adjust this tie-rod is if you change the final drive ratio sprocket sizes and you have to compensate for a slightly too-long or too-short chain that places the axle outside the correct eccentric hub position. Alternatively, you can remove or add chain links to obtain this orientation.

 

Something to consider...
You mentioned that the rear end compresses and that you would like more weight on the front?
Does the bike hold a line exiting the corner under throttle? Too much weight transfer to the back will rake out the front and make the bike exit wide - so you could add some compression dampening if the bike is consistently doing this from a slow/medium corner. If its doing it from a high speed corner - measure the rear shock stroke with a zip tie, and if it is bottoming out - add some more preload to the spring.
If after doing this the bike is then steering where you want it to go under throttle and the bars are moving around - you could consider a little more weight on the front by raising the rear.

 

Raising the rear ride height will reduce the rake angle at the steering head, and also reduce trail (the distance behind the line of steering pivot that the tyre contacts the ground).
Many of us have found that the best 'recipe' is:
1. Rear ride height raised - some have also lowered the front - which reduces rake and trail.
2. Yokes with less offset (generally 30 mm as against the 36 standard) which adds trail - more than is lost by the ride-height adjustments.

The result is rake reduced to slightly less than the 24.5 degrees standard, and trail increased from the stock 93-94 up to almost 100 mm.
These changes also add slightly to front weight bias - something most V-twin Ducatis lack due to the length of the engine.
This is close to the geometry of the new model.
The other way to increase the front weight bias is a longer swing-arm, but I am one of the few that have got this carried away..
Enjoy your experimentation.

 

Get the adjuster tool , cheap and you'll use it more than once. 245mm from top of tool to axle centre worked for me , also have 30mm offset clamps . You'll find quite a few running these set up measurements . Totally changes your bike.

 

Btw how much do you weigh with gear

 

I weigh 220 with 20lbs of gear.

 

The proper solution is to replace the rear spring with one that is appropriate for your weight. This will result in the proper rear ride height and correct sag values.

Ducati assumes a 170 lb. rider when they select stock springs and damper settings.

 

Where would I get a such a spring for my 1098 stock olins?

 

Kyle racing has many Ohlins springs in stock, and they can revalve/respring for your weight.

 

Call Dave at STM suspension. He is in your area and has them in stock. 970-682-2071